Briggs cast iron "magna matic" ignition

I have an 8hp cast iron Briggs model 200400 at the storage barn on an air compressor. It can be a pain to start, gotta wrap the rope around the pulley each time I pull it over.
When I got it, I cleaned the carb and filed and set the points and got it running.
That worked about a 1/2 a mowing season, and I had to replace the points. Don't remember if I put a condenser on or not. Last time I tried to start it I could get a few pops out of each pull of the rope at best. I cleaned the points again, pulled the plug and set it on top of the engine, I get a pretty good spark, sometimes. It's definitely easier to pull over when it's 80 degrees out than 40 like it was when I last tried to start it.not being able to get much rpms out of it when I wrap the rope each time may be part of being so hard to start.
Is there any tricks for that ignition system to make it easier to start? There really isn't a place to mount a battery for the idea of putting a Kohler style battery ignition coil onto it.
It worked /started pretty good until the last time last season I wanted to use it and it wouldn't go.
I went out and messed with it last weekend a while, I brought 2 tractors home and put tubes in some dry rotted tires so hopefully I won't need that compressor as much.
I would like to take some of my parts that need paint out there to paint being in question middle of nowhere. But it needs to run when I need it to.

I have had good luck with the Atom Ignition Module. Simple quick install. Get the green one for a Briggs engine. No more point or condenser to worry about. NAPA usually has them but not always the green #205 unit. The #209, brown unit is for Briggs also but have never used one.

from what i can find that atom was discontinued in 2005

I must have got some old stock as I purchased two units from local NAPA about 4 years ago. Another brand of module that I have also but would have to check on the info on that one.

may have found a replacement coil for this one.....

I have a 10 hp Brigg on a wood spliter that would eat the points. Figured out with the help of B&S it was the condenser causing the issue. Once I got the points set exactly right it will usually start first pull of the rope. Colder weather take the load off the engine so you can spin it over. Like put a tensioner on the pump drive belt. I take the belt off to the hydraulic pump on the wood spliter, start the engine and let it warm up some, restart the engine and tighten the belt. Evey one of those old girl have a different attitude. Good luck.

I see what you're saying but that would be more of a pain in the azz than it's worth this is on an air compressor

Anyone here have the part numbers handy for the points and condenser used with this ignition system???? Points are fairly new, but they came to me in a box of other miscellaneous parts and there was no condenser there. For all I know that may be the original condenser on this engine from '72.
Though I'm almost afraid to try a new one unless i can find an "old" new one.....

update... found some NOS Briggs points and condenser and a "Prime Line" coil. I re replaced the points and also the condenser this time//, didn't have my cordless impact with me to pull the starter cup so I could pull the shroud and access the coil. (funny, when I could use the air compressor to work on itself, I could have used some air for my regular impact, haha) wrapped the rope and gave it a whirl, and it started right up, didnt need the coil. but Im keepin it for future, dunno if Ill be able to find a coil for what is currently a 50 yo engine, when it does need one. Possibly next spring if I cant keep the varmints away from making their condo in this unit???? so far they havent touched this one yet. It pulls over much easier when it has a consistent spark too, I discovered..... Just gotta take a bowl gasket out there for the glass filter bowl next time I'm out there.....

Stuff a bunch of clothes dryer sheets, good ones not the $ store brand, and the mice will stay away for a couple months. I like to leave the hoods open, engines exposed as much as possible which I think help also. They don't like the "open air" condos near as much.

Ok digging up this ancient thread.
I ended up bringing this relic home last weekend, I have got it out behind the garage next to my outdoor work bench right now. Where i can work on it.

I'm losing storage where I had it, it was very convenient out at John's farm when I had a flat as he was pretty much out in BFE.

Bought this bench (all steel with a riser about a foot wide and the whole length) at the back and a drawer under the work surface.
Bought this bench at the auction last year just for this reason. This summer it will get its own slab poured for it right along the back of the garage.

Anyway back to the compressor.
I didn't even try to start it yet this season, today before I ran out of daylight I pulled the shroud,
Never have had that off of this unit since I've owned it until now. Wanted to check for a rodent motel(fortunately none) and check the coil for cracks and the wire between it and the point box.
All looks alright, but I'm gonna go ahead and swap out that coil since I have it... Tired of the hit and miss nature regarding whether it has spark and will run today or not. Coil I have is an aftermarket Prime Line, and though new in packaging , it is pretty old.
The coil is mounted on another bracket, that has quite a range of adjustment, I'm guessing similar to how/ why the old Tecumseh's had the slots so the mag could be rotated for timing.
I actually bought the factory dial indicator for those years ago for setting up the timing/ mag position.
On this engine I haven't touched those bolts to be able to slide the mag, it appears to be close to maxed out with this plate all the way to the left as facing the block, so that would be full advanced on timing. How would I check timing on this setup and 2nd question, should I?

When it was in the mood to run it fired off seemingly with less than 1 full revolution. Remember I have to wind the rope around the starter cup each time I try to started it.
It's either feast or famine. If it doesn't fire in the first 3 pulls it isn't going to that trip out there. Then next time might be a week or 4 months later and it'll fire up like no tomorrow. When it is in its mood it has no spark.

My wife helped me get it off the trailer and pushed while I pulled it across the soft back yard... Her first question was whether I was gonna sell it when I got it going.... Haha
I have a truck project down to a bare (currently still rolls but not for long) frame, that's going to the sand blaster soon. I might need a portable compressor like this to prime and paint the frame, possibly also to prime the body once it's stripped... Only place right now I have to spray it is the bare, acre lot next to a corn field and also next to my kids house.... Gas power seems my best option right now. THEN I will consider selling... But I need it dependable at least for the duration of that job...
This is a Binks brand compressor, and they're known for painting equipment and supplies... I assume it was built for paint work. The compressor itself is a huge Quincy. 2 cyl single stage. This engine and compressor looks like a clown on a teeny trike... And yes it is all original. I've seen 1 other like it, someone at the Winamac IN tractor show has its twin, and has it out there for "free air" for his fellow exhibitors at the show.
It definitely fills the tank rather quickly. I have to check the tag on the tank but it's somewhere between a 15-20 gallon tank if I had to guess.
Also just a guess but I don't think this thing has been run much at all since it was new. I know it sat unused, untouched in heated storage for at least 10 years before I got it probably longer.

So who knows what about these magna magic ignitions on the old cast iron Briggs engines?
The coil looks like what would have been on any Briggs L head of the 70s/80s but a little larger than what would have been on your typical 3 to 5 hp Briggs of the day. Just a little wider on the legs between mount bolts.

Oh and before anyone asks I did check the flywheel key, it's fine/ not even a scratch. And the carb is clean, that's not why it won't start when it gets moody as whenever it hasn't wanted to cooperate it's always been because of no spark

I still have an old briggs 5hp with water pump from waaay back. Points ignition that lost spark. Always heard to use the new pointless coils required flywheel magnetism change. But I took a pointless coil off a 3 1/2hp push mower, ground the legs to closely match the curvature of the 5hp flywheel, mounted the coil and had great spark and she ran perfectly! Ran it for years after that!

Was your engine cast iron? Those were the ones I heard about the flywheel magnets problem with the pointless ignition. I don't know that the aluminum block engines had that problem. Mine is cast iron. And there was some date by which if your engine was newer, you didn't have to worry about the polarity of the flywheel magnets. Or find a flywheel off of a newer version. But in those newer years I believe that they only had the 16hp. I don't know if a flywheel from a 16 would fit this engine. I don't know when they phased out each sized cast iron engine over the years.
If you look up a Briggs 200400 model the first thing that comes up is a much newer engine, I believe it may be a vanguard
Have to look deeper to find anything on this engine

dodge trucker said:

Was your engine cast iron? Those were the ones I heard about the flywheel magnets problem with the pointless ignition. I don't know that the aluminum block engines had that problem. Mine is cast iron. And there was some date by which if your engine was newer, you didn't have to worry about the polarity of the flywheel magnets. Or find a flywheel off of a newer version. But in those newer years I believe that they only had the 16hp. I don't know if a flywheel from a 16 would fit this engine. I don't know when they phased out each sized cast iron engine over the years.
If you look up a Briggs 200400 model the first thing that comes up is a much newer engine, I believe it may be a vanguard
Have to look deeper to find anything on this engine

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It's an aluminum block.

Magna-matic ignition doesn't use a flywheel key. The flywheeldoesn't have the magnets, They're in a rotor behind the flywheel.

Huh. I thought that all cast iron engines with the points in a box on the side of the block were considered "magna matic".
This has external coil like an aluminum block engine but nothing under flywheel, and regular Briggs flywheel key, coil mounts on a bracket with 3 retaining bolts, bracket is slotted. Slots between 5/8-3/4" long, bracket is set up all the way to the left and doesn't look like it's ever been touched. I have the flywheel off only for sake of verifying that the key is undamaged.

Dougt said:

Magna-matic ignition doesn't use a flywheel key. The flywheeldoesn't have the magnets, They're in a rotor behind the flywheel.

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Had a coil in a model 14 briggs go bad, so I removed it's coil leaving the induction legs in place. Drilled holes in top of legs where oe coil sat, then bolted a motorcycle coil in it's place. Worked like a charm! I still have that engine, but not fired it in 30+ years.