JD 316 3-Point Hitch Build

Before I make the bolts, I'm going to look at 6" x 5/8" bolts. If they have 3" of thread, I'll probably use them. I have to have them soft enough to drill as there is 2 roll pins in them.
 
I found some pins I bought at Atwoods. These will be for the lower arms, so I drilled new holes and cut off the excess. The patrs above are the bushings for the rockshaft. I cleaned them some and put a thin coat of wheel bearing grease on there.
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And here's how the 316 looks with the hitch installed. I had some 5" bolts to use for now between the upper and lower arms.
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I know I'm using Grade 2 all thread but I want to see if all thread is the way to go. I looked at 5/8" X 5.5" & 6". They only have 1.5" of thread. And my locking nut is a half inch thick, so I'm down to 1" of adjustment. That is not much. With the all thread, I have around 3" per side. So I made up 2 and I'll try them out tomorrow.
 
I can see why every JD I see plowing has a suitcase weight hanging on the plow. There is no way to get down pressure with a 4" slot the cylinder mounts in! This will not take Alice's place!
 
If you use down pressure on a plow you are lifting on the rear of the tractor. This is not good for traction. A properly adjusted plow should pull its self into the ground and control draft without down pressure or extra weight. Plowing was done for a long time behind horses and oxen without weights ore down pressure. When I plowed my garden with a David Bradly two wheeler an old farmer I knew stopped by to enjoy laughing at me Then ask why I didn't set it up better. He spent a few minuets tweaking the adjustments and cut my physical effort down by about 3/4. I learned a small amount about setting up that particular plow. There are many different variations of plow that need to be adjusted for many different variations and conditions of soil. That old farmer was 76 years old at the time and still working the same ground he worked when he was 10. He said in another 60 or 70 years he expected to have it about figured out. Since getting 4 wheel garden tractors I haven't had the opportunity to use a turning plow with one. I can understand the competition or challenge of the plow day. Don
 
secondtry said:
If you use down pressure on a plow you are lifting on the rear of the tractor. This is not good for traction. A properly adjusted plow should pull its self into the ground and control draft without down pressure or extra weight. Plowing was done for a long time behind horses and oxen without weights ore down pressure. When I plowed my garden with a David Bradly two wheeler an old farmer I knew stopped by to enjoy laughing at me Then ask why I didn't set it up better. He spent a few minuets tweaking the adjustments and cut my physical effort down by about 3/4. I learned a small amount about setting up that particular plow. There are many different variations of plow that need to be adjusted for many different variations and conditions of soil. That old farmer was 76 years old at the time and still working the same ground he worked when he was 10. He said in another 60 or 70 years he expected to have it about figured out. Since getting 4 wheel garden tractors I haven't had the opportunity to use a turning plow with one. I can understand the competition or challenge of the plow day. Don
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I'm not worried about down pressure with a plow, I have that covered. It's with my box blade, disc and such implements that need a bit of down push to cut into the ground!
 
I got the adapter today, but it's way to cold to install it. Maybe tomorrow.
 
But I have to drill them for 2 roll pins each. I don't have bits that good! That's the challenge!
 
Got behind on this project & was exciting getting caught up. It looks good & definitely massive enough. I seen somewhere a guy limited his travel in the slot in your case the 4" slots. Can you put a bolt through the slot with a nut on each side of your slots. Tightening down all four nuts would limit your travel & would be adjustable by loosening the nuts then slide the bolt in the slot then tighten.
 
Sawdust said:
Got behind on this project & was exciting getting caught up. It looks good & definitely massive enough. I seen somewhere a guy limited his travel in the slot in your case the 4" slots. Can you put a bolt through the slot with a nut on each side of your slots. Tightening down all four nuts would limit your travel & would be adjustable by loosening the nuts then slide the bolt in the slot then tighten.
Click to expand...
Good idea! I was thinking something like that!
 
Since the ignition module went sour, I haven't gotten try out the 3-point. Maybe this weekend.
 
Well I broke it yesterday! But an easy fix! My neighbor had pushed over a couple dead Elm trees. One was about 30' tall and about 10-12" round at the base. Backed the 316 into the root ball and hooked a chain so it wouldn't slide off the forks. Lifted it and headed for the burn pile out back. About half way down, I heard a POP! Looked over my right shoulder and all looked good, so I drug it on down. When I got there and looked over my left shoulder, I saw that side was dragging the ground. Lowered the lift and found the arm adjuster had broken. Wrapped the chain around things and was able to get it off the ground. Went to the shop to fix it. Here's the part:
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I had drilled through and installed long 1/4" roll pins to turn the threaded rod when adjusting. That took all the meat out of the pin and didn't work that well any way. I had more rod, so I cut 2 new pieces and this time I put in one hole at the top at 5/32" instead of the 3/16" to hold it in the ball. Welded new nuts in the top. A little semi-gloss Black on the welded nut and reinstalled the new 'adjusters'. All is well again.
 
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