New year new project doing some work on the 58 CS

Got the rings and piston back in and the con rod cap installed torqued and the bolt tabs bent to lock them, reinstalled the oil pan after cleaning it good there was really sticky goo in there opposite the drain plug, installed the cylinder head and gas tank and then called it a day. Did get the front wheels painted and reinstalled along with the drag link and steering pitman.
I forgot to say I was looking at the box the rings came in they are B&S OEM and the box says made in Canada they got to be good
Been thinking about the old rings and I'm wondering they were for a B&S Model 23, the 23 has a 3" bore and this 24xxx has a 3 1/16" Monday if I get to it I'm going to go back in the cold side and see if they will slide into a 23 cylinder

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Yesterday I took a compression ring to my storage area and put it in the cyl bore of a B&S Model 23 and it fit so I think someone put rings for a Model 23 in this Model 243431 engine thus the almost 1/8" ring gap. Got the clutch installed, the carb throttle arm turned 180 and installed the carb only to discover I had the linkage from the gov to the carb installed backwards and it was time to go home so this morning will remove the carb turn the linkage around and reinstall
 
Got the carb reinstalled with the linkage oriented correctly and the starter/gen on the engine this afternoon its to get it back on the tractor.
That darn gov to carb has the dangest bends and it always looks like it should be installed upside down model 23's use the same set up and I've done it enough I should remember but that's life
 
Happy days are here, had a heck of a time to get the trans input shaft to go into the pilot bushing tried raising the trans some raising the engine it just would not go in so I pulled the engine out and clear of the tractor put the pilot alignment tool in tapped it in a bit removed it and tried putting the engine in place got it close wiggled it a bit and then that sweet sound of it sliding in and contacting the bell housing. Bolted it in place put the engine mount bolts and tried the clutch and it works as it should big smile and happy feeling. Next connect the throttle controls, decided to crank the engine some put my finger over the spark plug hole had good suction and compression so it was time to add gas to the tank put the spark plug in a give it a try couple revolutions and it started hitting about every 2nd rev got the main jet screwed in to lean it and it cleared up and ran nice fine tuned the carb some more and it starts and runs great, I have noticed that these aftermarket carbs have to be set very lean I had set it at about 2 turns out per the B&S manual but I know I turned it back in 1 turn for sure. Started and stopped it a half dozen times set the ilde R's and the high R's got on the tractor and gave it a test drive in the shop goes forward and back as it should clutch works very pleased tonight

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Propane1 said:
So what’s the end plan for this one Gary. Do you have a attachment for it and putting it to work ?

Noel
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I have a plow and a plow blade, a straddle row cultivator, but is mostly just a have a little fun drive around tractor, will have to see if I work on any attachments. Had if out for some drove it around some didn't put a warm jacket on so not to long
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Yesterday I started work on the rear wheels and final drives, removed the right wheel cleaned it up and painted it, washed down the final drive to get all the old caked on gear lube and dirt of it has a leak and I was thinking it was the brake pinion shaft seal or the axle seal or both but after getting everything pretty clean it didn't look like either seal was leaking so I had the tractor sitting on a jack stand and I chocked the left wheel started the engine put the trans in 3rd gear and let the hub spin, let it run for about 10 minutes shut everything down place a clean piece of cardboard under the final drive and went home for the day.
Came in this morning and sure enough there was oil on the cardboard, got down and looked good (can see now that its clean) discovered that it was leaking out of the bolts that attach the final drive to the frame, this is fairly common these bolt loose over time and the gear lube seeps out around the bolts. Now for the fun part the bolt heads are inside the final drive box and to get at them you have to remove the drive cover but I tried an old trick got the impact wrench and gave it a tried 1 st one tightend tried the 2nd one same good results but the was now way get the impact wrench on the 2 top bolts so I tried the air ratchet but that didn't wotk the bolt just spun the was a bit of the bolt sticking out past the nut got a visgrips on it and got the nut tight 3 down one to go but no luck on #4 just could not get the visegrips to hold tried amny times finally decided to see if the leak had been stopped or what started the engine put it in 3rd gear opened the throttle and let it spin for about 10 minutes shut it down put a clean cardboard under the drive went home for lunch came back after dinner no leaking, oh happy happy happy. installed the freshly paint RH wheel and went to the left side it didn't show any signs of leaking checked the attach bolts one was tight 3 loose but was able to get all 4 tight, did the spin test no leaking LH wheel is in the paint room painted and curing for install tomorrow.
Got the left tire installed this morning serviced both final drives, my friend came by yesterday to barrow a B&S voltage reg and I talked him into sandblasting the fenders so I don't have to grind away with a worn out wire brush oh and I got the paint over spary off the RH tire after I took the picture
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So how do you get the information on that tag. Do they do it or do you do it Gary ? I use to have a set of number and letter stamp punches many years ago.

Tag looks good.

Noel
 
Propane1 said:
So how do you get the information on that tag. Do they do it or do you do it Gary ? I use to have a set of number and letter stamp punches many years ago.

Tag looks good.

Noel
Click to expand...
Hi Noel, the tag comes blank for the SN, you can have them stamp it but they charge way to much for me I have a couple of stamping sets,
 
Did you have the remains of the old tag so you knew what the serial number was? I can see that kind of stuff being long gone or so beat up it's unreadable!

DAC
 
Decided to get the plow blade in the shop and clean it up install it to see how it goes on then paint it so far have it disassembled and installed the frame on the tractor found the the extended oil drain I installed is in the way for the lift arm so had the change that, got the lift figured out so this afternoon will remove the frame and get it ready for paint

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