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No problem Doug, being a JD junkie comes in handy sometimes. Being that tiller has the adapter, you'll have to watch getting belts for it, the 31A tiller mounts a little closer to the tractor, so there are a couple of different belt lengths.

67 was the last year for the round fenders, 68 they went to the square fender. If TD is right, you have a early square fender. Which would explain the adapter bracket, I wonder if that tractor was purchased as a package deal from the dealer. Deck, blade and tiller, was a good chunk of money at...

Ok, that is a adapter bracket, which means you have a 31 tiller, which was made for the round fender 110 and 112. Deere made that bracket so you could use the early tiller on the square fender tractors. They later came out with a 31A tiller, which was a direct hookup. The bolt on hitch plate is...

And to give you a heads up, if you plan on using that deck pretty regularly, keep a eye on the double stack drive pulley. Changing the bearings in that can be a pain, just did one today at work. The pulleys are pressed fitted onto a shaft that has the bearing(s) attached. The shaft is fastened...

Hey Doug, can you post another picture of the rear of the 110? There's a bracket on the rear that caught my attention.

That idler pulley should be on a slider, it's how you tension the rear drive belt for the tiller.

Did you use the variator any Doug? It helps to keep them cleaned up and functioning.

Looks like you have some of the angling kit with it, good deal.

With Kawa engines when you check the oil, remove and wipe the stick, then place the stick back in the engine, BUT, don't screw it in. Pull it back out and check the level. Kawa's are the only engines I know of (so far) that have you check the oil this way. The directions should be written on...

As Chieffan said, you have to drive those keeper pins in, for ad hoc replacements I've used T shaped pins used in metal concrete forms. They are thinner than the Brinly pins, but they are thin enough to use two side by side in the standard keepers. These were made for garden tractors from about...

Yes. It should actually be orange, just a few shades lighter than AC orange. Looks like it's a SD3 or SD4.

Second one from the right is a rare one for being on the west coast, that's a Sheppard Diesel, made near Lancaster PA.

The seals being internal of the axle tubes helps in that regard. The oil leaking past them will sit in the axle tubes, till you move the tractor. And speaking of axle tubes, make sure you check the axles real good where the seals ride. With the sludge you drained out of the trans you may find...

I can get them, just a little bit spendy for three sets, and not really worth it right now because the tines are worn on all three bad tillers. Can no longer get the tines through Deere, a private company makes replacements, but they are very spendy. Also, if the tines haven't been removed in...

The 3inch springs look like they are made with thinner wire, so they might not have the same amount of force as the 6 inch one. Also the springs might become entwined, I would suggest a small wooden or metal "plug" in between them if one would fit. Take the two big pins and lay them in front of...

The older square fenders had a ball switch in the bottom of the neutral slot of the shifter gate. I think the later ones have a micro switch. They are there so you cant start the tractor in gear, looks like yours has been jumped, not surprised, the switches get tempermental after awhile...

Hubs are splined and are held on with a snap ring. You will have to drop the transaxle to do the axle seal, they are inboard of the axle tubes. You will also have to remove the brake band and drum, with the band removed I would wash and soak it in brake cleaner.

IF you can get the pin on the other side moving good you can take the roll pin out, slide the large pin and spring out. Then you can use a long rod to drive the stuck pin out.

Mixed bag day today, eh Doug? Glad to here you got a decent valve assembly for the 1650. The broken roll pin in the mower bracket can be drilled out and a new one inserted. In a way it will actually help you out, drill out the broken piece and the big pin should be able to come out the plate...

Remove the shifter then, just remember to put it back in the same place, neutral center is about the best for removal and installation.