Search results

The seals being internal of the axle tubes helps in that regard. The oil leaking past them will sit in the axle tubes, till you move the tractor. And speaking of axle tubes, make sure you check the axles real good where the seals ride. With the sludge you drained out of the trans you may find...

I can get them, just a little bit spendy for three sets, and not really worth it right now because the tines are worn on all three bad tillers. Can no longer get the tines through Deere, a private company makes replacements, but they are very spendy. Also, if the tines haven't been removed in...

The 3inch springs look like they are made with thinner wire, so they might not have the same amount of force as the 6 inch one. Also the springs might become entwined, I would suggest a small wooden or metal "plug" in between them if one would fit. Take the two big pins and lay them in front of...

The older square fenders had a ball switch in the bottom of the neutral slot of the shifter gate. I think the later ones have a micro switch. They are there so you cant start the tractor in gear, looks like yours has been jumped, not surprised, the switches get tempermental after awhile...

Hubs are splined and are held on with a snap ring. You will have to drop the transaxle to do the axle seal, they are inboard of the axle tubes. You will also have to remove the brake band and drum, with the band removed I would wash and soak it in brake cleaner.

IF you can get the pin on the other side moving good you can take the roll pin out, slide the large pin and spring out. Then you can use a long rod to drive the stuck pin out.

Mixed bag day today, eh Doug? Glad to here you got a decent valve assembly for the 1650. The broken roll pin in the mower bracket can be drilled out and a new one inserted. In a way it will actually help you out, drill out the broken piece and the big pin should be able to come out the plate...

Remove the shifter then, just remember to put it back in the same place, neutral center is about the best for removal and installation.

Yep, 80-90. Easy way to fill and check is to get a hose or tube that will fit in the top plug hole and put it on a squeeze bottle. Take the front plug out and squeeze the gear oil in the top plug hole till you start to see it reach the front plug hole. Easier yet is to remove the shifter and...

AWESOME! Yes, they are spring loaded. Set the plate with the pins vertical and work on the top one first, soak it with penetrating fluid and "bounce" it till it moves freely, then go to the other one. Yep, the pto has a safety switch, there should also be one in the gear shifter plate too, a...

Sounds similar to what I ran into about five years ago. My one cousins mower broke down and he didn't mow his yard for two years. One neighbor tried with his new Cub Cadet, went six feet and died. Another neighbor tried with his new John Deere, same thing. I showed up with my 78 JD 316 and was...

Do you have a air hammer Doug? Or a hammer drill? Either one with the right sized bit (metal rod) might be enough to vibrate the pins loose.

Penetrating spray and a good punch Doug, preferably brass. If you can get one to move all the way you can tilt the plate to remove it.

Seven out of my eleven Deeres are gear drives, so it's hardwired in my brain:)

Doug, to adjust the variator look in front of the lever, their should be two holes, they may have plugs in them. If you look into the lower one you should see a 3/4 bolt. Set the handle five clicks forward, there should be two clicks left before it is all the way forward. The next step is to...

Hmm, you got the deluxe seat set up, for the time. Between my uncles two 112's and his 140, plus my 110 and two 112's, only the 140 had the slider seat. There are cheaper seats then Deere sells that will match the mounting bolt pattern. TSC has them, can't remember if Runnings has them, been a...

I use dry graphite on mine, the dealership I previously worked at sells it for coating seeds used in the air planters and air drills. I pour a little in the pulleys and drive the tractor, moving the variator to allow the graphite to work it's way in. You could try it that way if the pulley isn't...

Sounds like the center of variator sheave is stuck. If you can find some graphite, especially powdered, I would dust it real good. Sometimes they loosen up enough to work. You need to check it out real good if it does loosen up, it shouldn't be so loose that you can tilt it, just enough to be...

Cuts down on drying time, it allows more sun, and more importantly, more air to reach more of the hay.

Can you drill and tap a small stud into the flywheel portion of the broken fin? Then maybe drill the broken off piece and JB weld them together?