2HP Shop Fox Dust Collector

[Sawdust]

I bought this about three years ago from a guy on Marketplace that had bought it new two years prior to me buying it for his future shop. He never had 220 so he downgraded to their 1 1/2 hp model. It’s a 2hp 220 volt Shop Fox dust collector. I’m going to convert it to a two stage collector using the Oneida Super Dust Deputy cyclone. This way I can eliminate the factory dust bag, collector collar, and cart it’s mounted to.



I mounted the DC in the far corner of my shop. I ran a 220 line using a 12/2 romex to the motor. It had a factory switch mounted to the frame. I thought about using a remote switch but they are costly. I have a neutral area about 20’ from the DC so I decided to re locate the switch.


I bought a couple of barrels awhile back so I’m using one to collect the sawdust. Right now I’m debating on wether to put the barrel on a dolly or just lift the ring and lid then roll it out. Once it’s rolled out I’ll have to put it on a two wheeler to dump it because my driveway is gravel so no point really of putting it on a dolly since it’s so close the garage door.

I cut a hole in the lid to connect the 6” hose to. I’m using a piece of 6” air duct hose temporarily until I find my 6” hose I bought for this it’s a lot more durable. The cyclone will be fixed above the barrel. Most all of the dust collected will travel down the cyclone and fall into the barrel. Very little particles reach the exhaust port. Most exhaust in a filter that is expensive for a good one. My thoughts are since I basically have no neighbors that I can see I’ll just run the 6” exhaust hose through the ceiling and out the soffit panel.


I made up my blast gates using a few ideas from others on YouTube. I made six which saved me around $200. One idea that I seen used that I liked was making a longer gate door to where they are a solid space for closing and a hole for opening all on one sliding gate. Most are made by using a solid gate then it’s slid out of the way to open. This allows the gate track to be open to collect dust clogging up the travel. By making a longer gate door keeps a part of the door in the track at all times.


I bought 7 pieces of my 4” PVC DWV tubing two years ago at about $8. Now this stuff is almost $20. My first tool to hookup will be my table saw then the miter saw. I’ve got a lot of pvc materials so I’m going to see what a can come up with then make a list of what I need. I bought a 4”x4”x2” eye from Amazon the other day that I needed. Who would ever thought of such a thing. It was almost $5. cheaper than the box stores and delivered to my door in two days.

 

[MFDAC]

Looks like that system s going to work great along with your modifications, Jim! Interesting writeup!

DAC

 

[Sawdust]

I managed to mock up some of the tubes trying to use what I have. Anything PVC is about three times the cost in just a few years ago.

I had to change the area under the table saw. I added a 2” stub before it goes under the table saw. I’ll bring that up around 2’ high for a port to plug tools like a sander etc. I’ll need to make a 2” blast gate for this.

At the other side of the table saw I’ll bring that up a few inches above the top of the saw side table for an overhead port above the blade.


This is a take off port for my miter saw. Remember every port or tool connection needs a blast gate to shut the vacuum off when not in use. This will go down under a collection box I’ll be building behind the saw.

 

[cjet69]

We have the 110v 1.5 HP model. Still working towards getting it setup in the woodshop area.

 

[Sawdust]

I started building the DC box for my miter saw. I think this tool probably creates more dust than any other tool in my shop. I only had to alter the space slightly where I needed to drop the box into. I had a couple of pieces of plywood the same size but wasn’t long enough to create the drop or sides for the hopper. I just used a biscuit cutter and glued a couple of short pieces to extend it to what I needed.


I cut up pieces for the sides, top, and back. Since it was about 60 degrees out I broke these pieces down outside with a cordless power saw.


It looks like a tombstone now but making it in one piece that will just drop into place was better for me.


Next up will be making some panels to close up the front of the box to create the suction needed at the bottom of the hopper. I’ll need two pieces one will move to the left and the other will move to the right to allow for compound miter cuts. I’ve seen these that slide away and some that remove using rare earth magnets. The jury is still out on this.

 

[Cvans]

I wish they made a biscuit cutter for metal. That would be handy. Pins would work but getting them exactly right is tough.

 

[chieffan]

Those are supposed to be good units. I use the Shopsmith I got with a package deal several years a go. It is on 120 V and still portable reaches the table saw, compound cut off and the lathe/drill from on location. Not doing much in the wood shop any more so never made it a permanent installation.

 

[Sawdust]

Those are supposed to be good units. I use the Shopsmith I got with a package deal several years a go. It is on 120 V and still portable reaches the table saw, compound cut off and the lathe/drill from on location. Not doing much in the wood shop any more so never made it a permanent installation.

I have been using my shop vac as a portable because like you most of my use was in the same area. I’ve wanted a DC for a long time but I could never pull the trigger on the cost. This one I got for less than half , I couldn’t pass that deal up. Right now all I want is the table saw and miter saw hooked up to it. I will have a 2” dust port next to my work table for hand tools. Later on I want to add a couple of the 4” drops for a stationary disc sander and maybe a planner.

 

[chieffan]

Don't forget about the grounding for the static buildup.

 

[Sawdust]

Don't forget about the grounding for the static buildup.

I’ve been sleeping on that plan Roger. A few good ideas on YouTube I’ve been researching. I’m actually preparing for that right now. I’m leaning more towards the method of driving a 10-16 3/4” hex headed self tappers at every joint. Later I’ll go back and run a braided copper wire on the outside wrapping around each screw. The screws act like little lightening rods inside the pipes. Of coarse it’ll all go back to the frame of the DC for grounding.

 

[chieffan]

One way I read for Shopsmith years ago was to run braid down the inside of the collector tubes. Doing it your way would be much easier, but static collection points at the screws only when inside it would be continuous. I use mine as a portable unit so no experience either way.

 

[Sawdust]

I had a challenge the other day mainly because I never wanted to buy anything. I’m using most all of the thin wall pvc compared to not using the schedule 40. My 4x4x2 fitting is schedule 40 but I have to connect the thin wall tubing to it on both ends. If I had thought I could have bought a thin wall 4x4x4 wye and just reduced the takeoff end to 2” would have been a lot easier. My idea worked out great but it took me about an hour to make it work.


I had two pieces of tubing that had the factory bell end on them so that took care of some of the space I needed to make up. I cut a piece of the thin wall tubing then I split it so I could wrap it around the bell end. I coated the pieces with some Vaseline and fastened my heat gun to my work table. I was able to tap the pieces together enough to hold together while I turned it like rotisserie in front of the heat gun. Once heated up it went together nicely.


The piece of tubing I split left a small space so I just ran a bead of acrylic caulk yo seal that.


This pic is of it laying flat. The end on the right with the blast gate will mount under the table saw. The left end has the 2” vertical takeoff that will run up next to the saw cabinet about waist high next to my work table. I will have a connection for power tools and a 2” clean up hose for vacuuming.

 

[Sawdust]

I finished up on all I’m going to do for awhile on the DC other things are pressing right now. I made a 2” blast gate for the power tool port and it works great. I used a muffler clamp to fasten it to one of the table legs.


I boxed in the miter saw with two removable panels that are fastened with rare earth magnets. The one on the left will remain while the one on the right will have to be removed for miter cuts. I cut one out so I could swing the saw back and forth for maximum clearance but although it vacuumed well enough I didn’t like it. Most cuts are straight and removing the panel when needed won’t be a problem. I’m very impressed at the volume of vacuum with this collector. When I get a chance I’m going to rig up a swing away vacuum port with a shroud that will sit over the blade of the table saw. It’s vacuuming very well until right when the wood leaves the blade there’s about a quarter teaspoon of saw dust fly’s out across the table. Other than that I’m very happy with this set up.


Here is the miter saw table after a few cuts, very clean with no dust.