7-Stages, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS, (The Outline).

GT48DXLS

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Complete K66 Oil Maintenance Guide, By The Step, With Pictures, Start To Finish


Outline


1) Thoughts, Warnings, and Why?

Stage 1-

Getting Your Average Husqvarna GT, or Husqvarna Built for Another Brand GT Ready For Disassembly and Transaxle Access.

1) Preparation For Project
2) Mower Deck Removal by the numbers

Stage 2-

Disassembly as Necessary for Transaxle Maintenance. Easy as 1-2-3…..

1) Prep For Center Console Removal
2) Center Console Removal

Stage 3-

1) Body Removal
2) Fuel Tank Removal

Stage 4-

Tuff Torq K66 Service

Stage 5-

Reassembly, and Test Run

Stage 6-

Easy, By The Numbers Reconnecting The Mower Deck

Stage 7-

All Garden Tractor Accessories Unique To Your Machine and Needs, Such as,
Johnny Bucket JR, Snow Blade, Etc.

(It is my hope in this first part, my general business tone is not confused, it’s just difficult material. I believe it needs to be covered in order to understand, that my purpose, is to help)

When using this guide, please read through the step and tips first before executing. This may help the both of us, you being aware in advance of what to expect, tools you may need, helpers to have on board, parts you may want.

This helps me, I am not a pro at writing, I do my best with trying to write it as easy to understand as possible, and as much as it pains me to admit it- I am human.

The first question I think you may need to answer is why?

These GT's of our can work very hard. Some pictures of my GT's Task's,

K66 Pre Stage.JPG

K66 Pre Stage1.JPG

K66 Pre Stage 2.JPG

I took a picture 13OCT2019 of the current clock,

K66 Pre Stage 4.JPG

That's the fun part!

Also, feel free to show how your GT works for you,

Now lets get some work out of the way,
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Husqvarna says the Tuff Torq K66 is “maintenance free”.

Tuff Torq says this, I have supplied the PDF in it's entirety as it comes from Tuff Torq

“FOR CONSUMER USE IN LAWN TRACTOR AND RIDING MOWER APPLICATIONS OIL CHANGING IS NOT EMPHASIZED AS MOST HOMEOWNERS AREN’T EQUIPPED OR IN THE HABIT OF CHANGING TRANSMISSION OIL.”

Translation offered,

Residential use of our transaxle is designed to last the warranty period without maintenance as requested by yard equipment manufacturers, because we believe the average customer won’t do it anyway.

Maintenance free is not a recommendation but rather a short term concession backed by warranty.

When Tuff Torq used the word “consumer” they are referring to their own sales and marketing brochure, ie… Consumer=Residential Grade.

Their residential grade IHT’s (Integrated Hydraulic Transaxle) are TL-200, K46, K57, and K58.
If you look up the machines these are in, they are light duty, mow lawns, light yard work, and are clearly residential grade, they don't offer a means to change the oil, they are 3/4" axles, etc. and are perfectly fine for what they are intended to do. They can be maintained for considerably more effort than ours if someone was asking that question, but this guide is on the K66.

Tuff Torq further states this,

“FOR MOST CUSTOMERS, THE TRANSAXLE WILL OUTLAST THE LIFE OF THE MACHINE. BUT, IT MUST BE SAID THAT CHANGING OIL WILL EXTEND THE LIFE OF THE TRANSMISSION.”

When Tuff Torq says for “most customers” the transaxle will outlast the life of the machine, what are they saying?

We (Tuff Torq and their customers) expect most individual customers will use their riding lawn tractors for mowing grass and occasional yard duty, such as rakes, or small carts.

I’m just looking at this logically, it’s what I see. A few of us are needing heavier use, but not most.

Tuff Torq must meet the demand of their own product and their customers promises. Their customers are mostly yard equipment manufacturers trying to meet the consumer demand for easy, affordable, and readily replaceable.

The second half of this sentence uses the words “must” and “will” to describe the obvious, changing the oil extends the transaxle’s life. Because of the last half of the second quote, I believe Tuff Torq has met their obligation in the first two quotes, speaking for both themselves and their yard equipment manufacturers.

Tuff Torq has 2 more powerful statements, such as this,

“HOWEVER, IN COMMERCIAL AND HEAVY USAGE APPLICATIONS OIL CHANGING IS RECOMMENDED AFTER THE 1 ST 50 HOURS OF OPERATION AND EVERY 200 HOURS, THEREAFTER.”

Once the words “Commercial” and “Heavy Usage” are used is when you see the word “recommended”. Yep, now the game changes, but what does “Commercial” and “Heavy Usage” mean?
I believe the answer is also in Tuff Torq’s sales and marketing brochures and how they classify their transaxles. (I have had this confirmed in email correspondence with Tuff Torq)

The Tuff Torq Professional Series IHT’s are, K62, K66, K72, K92. They are described as for use in Commercial applications and are designed for “Heavy Usage”, ie, “Ground Engagement” and “Serviceable”, they also have heavier 1" plus axles.

If you bought a lawn tractor that has a K62-K92 and only need to mow grass (maybe lots of grass on hills) servicing your transaxle might not have much benefit to your needs, consider where your needs fall between the recommendation or concession, and choose whats best for you.

In this brief review, I want special attention to be brought to the fact that I am not advocating for or against changing the oil. I’ll say it in another way, I am leaving the decision and proper judgment up to the individual that is only qualified to know what is best for their individual circumstances and use. I’m just trying to bring the information to help with some of the why.

The Warning,

I believe most things that are difficult or hard to do are probably worth doing, bringing their own rewards.

After I rebuilt my GT last year from the ground up I performed my first K66 oil change at around 63 hrs. I posted pictures of the process to rebuild the GT and of the transaxle oil at the 63 hrs. The oil was dirty but no metal flakes.

I was asked a question from someone wanting to service their K66, but wanted a guide or some way of simplification to do it, he sounded like a diligent owner to me. I started reasoning a path with him (I had it fresh in my mind) but very quickly realized what a monumental undertaking this was from a position of, he just bought his $3500 TS/GT, and a few words were not going to get the job done.

I performed this K66 oil change again for the second time for the purpose of writing this (JULY-2019), and I still had hope there was an easy way….. I was wrong! (I performed the 50 hr oil change at 63 hrs and the 200 hr oil change at 190 hrs)

I considered there are probably others out there wanting to do the same thing, or at least wanting to have a reliable way of making that determination for themselves because this requires a commitment once you start.

I don’t want to sugar-coat this in any way, after much thought, it’s hard, it may make some feel like you won’t be able to get it back to the same machine you bought or worse, you box it up and take it to hopefully a sympathetic Dealer and ask him to fix it while you eat crow.

Have I scarred you yet?

How about this,

I believe the 5 hardest repairs to make on our GT’s are as follows,

1) Rebuilding or Repairing a Transaxle.

(remember this, to get the transaxle you will be following the steps for servicing one, plus its removal, plus the actual rebuild part. Replacing a Chassis is easier)
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2) Rebuilding the Engine.

(doing this right, requires some knowledge, and special tools $$$, but removing the engine requires far fewer steps than number 1!)

3) Replacing the Chassis.

(All the above have to be removed minus any rebuilding in this scenario)

4) Tuff Torq K66 50hr-200hr Oil Change Service.

(This guide will speak for itself why I place it here at number 4)

5) A Complete Overhaul of a Mowing Deck.

Hold up….errr…..The K66 Oil Change is not number 1? but All the way down at number 4?

There’s hope. I wanted to find a way to communicate that it is doable but should not be entered into lightly.

That’s why I spent countless hours at writing each step, following the step to confirm, researching, and of course, 562 pictures (to pull from) to speak to those like myself that learn from sight, each step, and what it should look like from an average start point of mowing deck removal to mowing deck reconnect and turn the key with confidence you missed nothing. I will help you tear down and reassemble by the word, hint, insights, and pictures.

I have now performed this service on my own Tuff Torq K66 twice. A very healthy K66 that is used to move sand, has over 207 hrs now.

I believe anyone can do this with the basic tools I identify and a small dry, safe space, even the space you store your GT. I’m assuming if you have a TS/GT or it’s equivalent, this minimum space and hand tools (you might purchase a few) are already available to you. Even if you own a GT to mow a lawn that is 100’ sq (10’x10') in 3 minutes flat, buy a Harbor Freight 10’x10’ cheapo canopy or it’s equivalent and yep you too! But it might be 20 years before you reach your 50 hr maintenance.

Because of how involved this is in total, I will post each thread by Stage. Next thread will be Stage-1, and I will assume you've read this pre-stage and we will get straight to steps and pictures. I think after Stage-2 or Stage-3, this outline will become self evident.

The next section, Stage-1, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS, Prep, and Mower Removal.
 

Attachments

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  • tuff torq oil change freq.pdf
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  • Professional-IHT-brochure-web.pdf
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Thank you for putting in the effort.

Thank you, for recognizing the hours I put into it, when people are inspired to maintain their tractor because of this in all or in part, it was well worth it to me.

The Tuff Torq K62/K66/K72 and K92 were all apart of the same production category of transaxles that were designed with the intent for maintenance to be performed as a key description among some others.

I found that the K62/K66/ and K72 all shared similarities with internals.

These transaxles have been in production for over ten years now, making them very common in yard and garden tractors (K92 common in heavy Garden and SCUT).

I also have noticed the tractors of the 70's, 80's, and even into the 90's have endured, and by the time the 2000's come along, tractors are less common to still be around and in regular service except those that are approximately 3 years old'ish or just out of warranty. I think there are many factors to answer the why, and I have read many good explanations on this forum already.

I also have noticed that when a manufacturer wants to sell maintenance free, it seems to be a cover for disposable. I think disposable can be useful when you know in advance or quick, cheap, easy is what you need, thinking of when hosting a large celebration of some kind, many of us will use paper/plastic plates, utensils, cups, etc. This make things easy. It's a personal choice.

I have also noticed when a manufacturer makes it too labor intensive to service critical components people will adjust their expectations, and without any other options that becomes reasonable.

Manufacturers carrying a premium name will generally build into their designs a practical way of maintaining key components while the lower end manufacturing will cover up and make inaccessible, many of the practical ways to maintain those same key components within a clean package.

Premium brands will charge double of the lower end. The price difference and maintainability won't tell the whole story, but does tell a significant part. The question becomes, am I getting $2K, $3K, $4K dollars worth for real?

The answer I think is maybe, and it depends. For the person that was able to pony up for the lower end not having the budget for the upper end, or lacking skill-tools-confidence in finding a classic to restore will be happy with the upgrade to a much more solid feeling tractor to mow large lawns for awhile, while every hour ticks by, they may question the finite short term design of not performing maintenance. They may intuitively know an engine, transmission, etc. needs to be maintained because of their cars/ trucks at the very least. Their trucks need even more regular attention when working (towing frequently) and the GT isn't different when working hard either (ground engagement anything).

For those of us say over 40, we need extra maintenance too when working hard (ground engagement anything!).

When I asked the question (to myself) if I wanted to maintain this transaxle, and I had limited skill, tools, confidence, what can I do?

1) Ask the Dealer?
The Dealers from what I have been told will either claim it's not needed, not recommended, or quote a price approximately 1/4 to 1/3 the price of a new machine. All are impractical.

2) Ask Google?
There are people that have video's and are good. There are some writings and few pictures, but not for the average person. Tuff Torq has a procedure but all of these options assume the transaxle is removed or already accessible. I couldn't find anything (I can find things that can't be found usually) that reliably proven even, that could provide a way for the average person an ability to do this themselves.

I found that the biggest obstacle to maintaining the transaxle was having a reasonable way to access it.

This guide has the most application to Husqvarna GT/ TS, Craftsman GT, Jonsered YT/ GT, McCulloch, and Dixon. Models that will still greatly benefit with a few differences in the models but have the Tuff Torq K62/ K66/ K72, John Deere, Scotts-Sabre, Husqvarna, Craftsman, Poulan Pro, Johnsored, McCulloch, Dixon, Cub Cadet, Toro, Troy-Built, Murray, Itesia, Simplicity, Iseki, Stiga, Countax, Caron. These represent the bulk of all modern YT/GT being built in the modern age.

I want to hear from people, how it helped, are there steps for different models more helpful, how people solved those challenges, what other models this applied to, etc.

What manufactures had intended for your tractor can be disregarded with a little knowledge and a source library for even just a spot you find yourself stuck in. I suspect, when people take a risk and perform this maintenance, they will inevitably catch the modification/ restoration bug, and that's a win for all of us.




 
I was following your posts while I serviced the Craftsman Pro trans-axle. My manual also stated that it was maintenance free, why then have an external filter? Post #137 here Craftsman 917.273100 2000 Estate find

"My Deepest Respect Goes Out To You Right Now. Congratulations On An Accomplishment I Think Very Few Will Do".

"Celebrate Knowing There Is Virtually Nothing You Can’t Accomplish With Your GT Now".


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You deserve that, and Thank you for following, there are many brands that benefit from this, and I'm glad to hear from a Craftsman owner. I would like to hear your feedback on the process and how many hours are on the clock? For others that might be on the fence, why did you perform the oil change?

On to your pertinent question,

I think this is a great question, though I think it was more a statement, and a good one, I will answer as a question, because it shows the confusion of information even among the manufacturers.

Your K66 has the "center case" I think? This is a great option on the K66. It was intended to provide power to the steering or deck lift, also for the K664- providing oil to power in sync the front K664 for all wheel drive found on Simplicity and Countax.

The K66/ K664 I'm told, were found to be problematic, and the reason.... when the oil works even harder because of hydraulic cylinders, and you provide insufficient sump holding (as compared to the K72 with nearly double the sump) and support your customers, to not maintain the oil, that viscosity is being burned out of faster while under increased loads, you might find a faster failing transaxle....ie: problematic.

But is it really?

The transaxle manufacturer the whole time did identify that the transaxle was "designed" to be maintained, and on the K66 with center case or K664 had an option to install an exterior remote filter. To those that had a bit more advanced knowledge, this access also allows for a remote oil cooler and sump to greatly, and properly, control heat that is inevitable in all hydraulic systems. The killer of hydraulic systems is particle/ contaminates and heat.
 
On the Craftsman Pro, it was an estate find for $150.00. Hours unknown no hour meter. After veryfing it runs and moves, a complete teardown for a full frame up restore is in progress. Transaxle isn't too hard, may be able to do this without removing the tins next time.
 
On the Craftsman Pro, it was an estate find for $150.00. Hours unknown no hour meter. After veryfing it runs and moves, a complete teardown for a full frame up restore is in progress. Transaxle isn't too hard, may be able to do this without removing the tins next time.

I started following your build at the chassis cleaning and respray. For some unknown to me reason, when I read your comments here, I missed that part and assumed your build had a gear drive.

With all that said, the comments and congratulations I think still apply and I meant them. Having what I believe to be the newest restored GT in North America, I can say with experience its a rewarding, worthwhile, endeavor to do a frame up restoration, and not many people have the money, time, knowledge/ skill, tools/ shop space, or confidence to take on such a project, adding to the rarity of such an accomplishment.

I was impressed with the way your chassis, and hardware cleaning came out. The hardware against the new black paint looked new. When you informed me the old hardware was cleaned and reused, I was further impressed with the work put into that. I would encourage anyone looking at my thread to visit larrybl and give this on-going restoration a look, and I look forward to the finished results.

Now for an update;

00066.JPG

This is the clock as of 27NOV2019. Approximately 10 hrs since the second Transaxle service at (190 hrs, JUL2019) have been used on mowing grass. The rest has been Johnny Bucket JR and Box Blade time.

Some of the highlights of that work;

1) 22 cubic yards of fill for a 20X30 pad (12X20 shed), moved, packed, graded.

2) Leveled an area with multiple grades 30 X 20, 20 X15, and 130 X 10.

3) Excavated a cut 30 X 40 for 3' retaining wall.

4) Winch support for hanging more horse fence sections.

Garden Tractors can be very useful and economical, and a well serviced transaxle is a big part of it's on going reliable use. I'm still impressed with what can be done, and I'm proving this capability weekly.
 
Just joined the forum to get your guide for servicing the transaxle in my Snapper YT2050. My Dad purchased it new in the mid 2000's and we have used it for farm tasks as well as mowing up to 4 yards during the time my wife and I lived near home and my grand parents were living.

My Dad recently replaced it with a new Simplicity with 4x4 and I inherited the Snapper where the added traction from the locking differential has been great pushing snow in the winter and some scraping tasks around the yard.

I'll go ahead and say that I'm pretty hard on tractors. I grew up on a farm where our small tractor was nearly 50hp but this little tractor does most of what I ask of it without issue. I'm currently looking to service the transaxle and replace the cooling fan before this year's mowing season starts.

Thank you for your work in this. I'm going to take a look this evening when I pull the snow blade off and see what kinds of parts I'm going to need to replace while I'm in there.
 
That's a lot of work and effort you put into this article. I don't know much about those hydrostatic tranys but if I needed to find out something this would be the place to look.
 
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