Anyone repair their own control cables? I had one seize up on my push mower. Even though it was plastic coated it had rusted tight in one spot and the cable inside frayed beyond use. I didn't have time to try and repair it so I ordered a whole new cable. $14 and some change seemed like a lot for what it is. This is technically called a brake cable, for this application, and only has to pull against a spring loaded lever. I thought about trying to use a wire, in place of the cable, but wasn't sure if that would work.
Control cable repair
- Thread starter Bill56
- Start date
Check this thing out.
Cable luber tool
I have one similar to the one linked I used on old brake cables for minibikes and go carts. It's not really refurbing them, but usually a lot of oil, blaster, wd40, or something will free them up with some patience. Also works nice to give them a shot of lube to prevent them from rusting up(although I never have done that!)
Cable luber tool
I have one similar to the one linked I used on old brake cables for minibikes and go carts. It's not really refurbing them, but usually a lot of oil, blaster, wd40, or something will free them up with some patience. Also works nice to give them a shot of lube to prevent them from rusting up(although I never have done that!)
You pretty much have to replace the whole thing. If the wire rusted, so did the casing.
I have made new ones. At Harbor Freight and most box stores, you can get these cheap $7 sewer augers and use those for the outer casing. It gives you enough for several cables. Then for the inner wire go to your hardware store and get a roll of stainless steel wire of the appropriate thickness. The most trouble I have had is with the applications that have fancy ends on them, like for example; the engine clutch handle on walk behind mowers.
I was kind of guessing that would be my results too... Therefore my decision to go with ordering a new one.
That was the weird part about this one. When I couldn't get the cable to move I cut the plastic off the casing so I could use Blaster on it. The casing looked like new from the outside. I soaked it for two days, then moved and rotated it in every direction. Spent about an hour playing with it with no results. Even clamped the cable in a vice and tried to pry against the casing with a claw hammer but it wouldn't budge a bit. Finally gave up and put a hard bend in the casing in one spot. The cable was rusted entirely and some of the strands broke. This casing seemed to be sealed well with a plastic fitting on both ends. Not sure how or why it rusted so bad.
Had to replace a neighbor's engagement cable because it rusted apart. He parks it outside year round. I gave him a piece of roofing tin to keep it covered through the winter months to maybe prevent it happening again.
Mike
Mike
That's a possibility. I had it stored out side, but under a cover. It was inside all winter and spring. Found a huge mouse nest in a cabinet that was next to where the mower was parked... mouse pee?
Yes, I was thinking about that too. Also the snow blower at work uses open cables running through pulleys. I'm guessing that's to eliminate the freezing problem that a sheathed cable might have. I'd thought about rigging something like that, for this mower, but didn't have the time to tinker with it now. We have a broadcast spreader, at work, that we use to spreader salt. The adjuster cable rusted tight so I rigged up some rods and wooden levers to "get by." Been using it, that way, for six years!
I rigged up a chute angle adjuster on my poulan snowblower using a locking throttle cable. I covered the open spring type housing with rubber fuel hose and made where the wire comes out as watertight as possible. I also soaked the housing good with oil before putting the fuel hose over it. Working good after 2 years.
Mike
Mike
