Farmall A front wheel trouble

cjet69

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
Back in late September I fired up our farmall A after it had been sitting for 6-8 months. I was going to use it with our roller to pack down some grass seed in a newly planted area. I drove the Farmall A about 100 ft. and the steering began pulling hard to the right until the right wheel locked up. I thought maybe it was just pushing a big rock or chunk of wood preventing it from turning. I backed up and the wheel started turn again and made it another 20 ft. or so and it locked up again. I tried backing up and pulling forward again and heard some popping noise in the front wheel area. I thought it was probably a bearing failing and falling apart. I then pulled forward and the wheel kept turning so I parked it and would inspect it later.

About a month later I jacked it up to pull the front wheel. When I removed the dust cap it looked like the nut was threaded along ways onto the spindle. I looked all over for a cotter pin and found nothing. Put a wrench on the nut and it was pretty much bottomed out on the threads. I got it pulled off and the bearings looked kinda rusty. I think the outer bearing was rusted to the point that when I drove it forward it sheared the cotter pin which allowed the nut to tighten until it locked up the front wheel. Once I got the wheel back to the shop I started cleaning it up and found some cast iron chunks inside the hub. See second pic- cast iron chunk just below outer race. Further inspection revealed that the nut tightened so far that it broke the seat area for the outer bearing race. The only option was to find a used one somewhere.

I spent several weeks cruising the web looking for a decent priced replacement. I finally found one a couple days ago and got it ordered. It should be here tomorrow and then I can start the cleanup process and make a trip to NAPA for some bearings and seals. Hope to be back up and running soon.

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I hope you are going to check the other side when you get this fixed.

Yes I will be checking. It might have the same problem going on on the left side, but the direction of rotation keeps the nut from overtightening. I'll get more pics as I go along.

Poor little guy needs to live a sheltered life.

That would be nice to have a big building for all of the tractors. and it would help keep issue's like this from happening. Repacking the bearing's from time to time would help also. I guess I need to start a Go Fund Me account for a new building.;)
 
The replacement wheel center just arrived in a Big Brown Truck. I also got a better pic of the damage looking from the back side of the hub at the outer bearing race. You can see that the whole seat area for the race has broken away.

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I have a wheel hub that looks to be the same out here somewhere. It was on the place when I moved in and I had no idea what it fit. I'll have to locate it and compare to pictures.
Don
 
Would the wheel and tire have looked slanted a bit when it was sitting or being used.

Noel
 
Would the wheel and tire have looked slanted a bit when it was sitting or being used.

Noel
No slant to the wheel or any play in it. The bearings were intact and the race/cup was still in the bore of the hub so the wheel looked just as it should.
 
Weird. Metal fatigue may be. I don’t know.

Noel

What I think happened was the outer bearing got water in it and rusted so it just spun on the spindle. The nut was probably rusted to the bearing which then rotated the nut with enough force to shear the cotter pin in the castle nut then continued to rotate tightening the nut down further until the pressure was so great on the bearing race/cup that the cast iron broke at the seat area.
 
Since I need to Epoxy prime the Farmall A wheel I thought I would setup a bunch of other tractor parts at the same time. I have a couple engine blocks to do also that aren't pictured. Maybe if I get some of these parts done I can get my paint booth back. Its become my overflow storage area.

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I would make sure there is a good clean gasket on the hub cover. Probably leaked some water into the bearings for this to happen. Good luck.

Sheenist.
 
We picked up the new bearing kits today. We decided to do both sides while its apart. These are complete with bearings, all seals, and the tin seal ring. Purchased them from from a local independent parts and equipment supplier.

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