Got the Case 222 into the Shop

MNGB

MNGB

Tractorologist
Senior Member
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This morning I got the poor old Case 222 in from out in the elements, got it close to the shop door washed it down quick and got about 75% of the grease and oil off it, pushed it into the shop, these darn Case's push hard or I'm getting weak. The top engine cooling tin over the head is missing, the points cover like wise. Connected a battery to the cable and tried the starter it turned about a turn and stopped tried again got it over compression and it stopped, misc stuff was coming out of the flywheel area got the blow gun out and blew out a bunck of thistle fluff and other leaves etc no mouse nest, removed the spark plug and tried cranking it turned over good, so checked for 12 vo;ts to the coil, there was next checked at the points was good so hooked up the spark tested cranked it over nothing, shot some cleaner on the point nothing got the points file out and that did it now had spark so I screwed the SP in squirted a bit of gas into the carb and cranked it after a couple of turns it fired and ran on the bit of gas tried it again and it fired and ran for short bit, so there's hope. After fired up it cranked much better I think the ACR was stuck and is now loose cause it has no problem spinning it over. Next I'll remove the deck and hook up a temp gas tank and see if it will start and run.

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Things went good this afternoon, removed the deck, got the drive belt off the clutch and pass the cooling fan and the oil cooler it was a tight squeeze almost had to use a few work=ds like OH darn you guys know. Added some oil but got to much in but I figured too much is better than none. Looked in the gas tank it looked clean so I put some gas in only to find it running outon to the floor put a pan under the tractor catch most of it pretty sure the hose has cracked and broken so went to plan "B" put a piece of hose in a small gas jug disconnected the hose from the fuel pump to the carb removed the SP so it would crank over good in a bit had gas being pumped so connected the hose to the carb reinstalled the hose to the carb cranked it to fill the carb bowl installed the SP squirted a little gas into the carb and put the choke on gave it a try and it started up and it runs very nice only went to about 1/2 throttle because of the oil over fill. Started it a couple of times started good and it really runs nice. Tomorrow will install new gas hose change oil, clean and gap the SP and then run it more. When I had it running I tried forward and reverse and nothing was a little concerned, checked the hyd lift and it was working good, after I shut it down the light came on the transmission is in neutral so that explains things. Looked the the SN's and its a 1978 model year, feeling good this evening.

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That's good news you got it running well, Gary! You will have it mowing in no time!

That MF 1450 I'm working on is also a 1978, the year my wife and I got married---LOL!

DAC
 
I had the same 'no movement' issue with my 224. Once I put in low range it was fine. Just not happy with the 'super fast' reverse though. I think it's got a 'Hix2' range there! LOL Have to idle it down to back up.
 
Removed the fenders and got the gas tank out this morning, used heat to get the fender straightened its looking pretty good, and I'm pretty sure I found the gas leak I'll let you guys look and tell what you think

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Installed a new gas hose inline fuel filter and the tank, added gas no leaks so started it. It runs nice but I have to adjust the throttle rigging its not got to full throttle, put the transmission in lo-range and tried it move forward and back, put a old battery in, it bad but has enough life to keep the engine running when the jumper cable are removed, got on the tractor and went for a test drive runs and drives, had my afternoon Tea checked the rectifier voltage regulator as its not charging couldn't mail anything down will have probably rewire the tractor as the wires are not the best. Went for another drive and all was good tried it out on a steep hill went right up no problem or slowing, so back to the shop and backed in as I was ready to stop the steering got so hard to turn like it seized, looked to see if it was the steering gears but they look ok, jacked up the front axle all that was ok so figured it has to be the upper steering column so I squirted WD40 at the top and some got it to loosen up so it can be steered again. will remove the steering wheel and check the upper bushing/bearing and replace it with a new one, all in all I'm pretty happy with it, and may have gotten the RH rear tire to seal it was leaking at the bead I'll know Monday morning, I'm thinking this maybe a good mower tractor Also got the Left fender straightened not perfect but passable will paint both later.

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Looking and sounding good Gary. I was gunna take out the 446 today, but had some work to do !!! Had to get out the MF 14 bulldozer and fix up the mess I made with the Ferguson yesterday. Seems like every tractor has its strong and weak points

Noel.
 
Worked on the Case some yesterday afternoon, checked the charging system cleaned grounding contacts connected a jumper wire to the 12 VDC lead and the battery started the engine and it was charging finally got to 14.2 VDC so I removed the key switch marked the wires and switch terminals reconnected the wires installed the switch gave it a try and the engine started and ran and it wasw charging at 14.2 VDC had 3 wires left 2 are for the ammeter just about impossible to get to and replace (its busted) and the other is for the lights, the key switch has been replaced and not with the right one, it should have a position for the lights but it doesn't and I don't have one for battery ignition so I'll just install a separate light switch. Had to make a gasket for the points cover and found a cover in my spare Kohler parts so got that installed much better than having the points hanging out in the open. Have to do some searching to see if I have some cyl head cooling tins next, its coming along
 
If the top cover for your 12 hp is the same for the KT17 I think I have a good cover off my KT that threw the rod.
 
chieffan said:
If the top cover for your 12 hp is the same for the KT17 I think I have a good cover off my KT that threw the rod.
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Thanks Roger I appreciate the offer, but they are different I have an old KT 17 I just have to do some looking I have an old 12 & 14 HP Kohler so I should have something
 
Have been working on the 222 off and on bought a new battery it starts and runs but not as good as it should I've tried adjusting the carb but it just doesn't want to get right so I ordered a new aftermarket carb less than $16.00, drove it a bit and it would be running good and then start to bogg down then spit back thur the carb and stop would start right up run some then the same thing so I thought I'd check the SP removed it and noticed its the wrong plug so I got a plug that is called for and it runs much better so we'll see
 
Vent on gas cap be the trouble Gary. I kinda want to use my Case. But have no ground engaging attachments. But I am gunna see if I can pull some trees in the woods, that are down.

Noel
 
Propane1 said:
Vent on gas cap be the trouble Gary. I kinda want to use my Case. But have no ground engaging attachments. But I am gunna see if I can pull some trees in the woods, that are down.

Noel
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Good morning Noel not the gas cap checked that, started it this morning ran good I think the spark plug that was in it is bad will test it later, its also for a B&S not a Kohler, went ahead and greased it this morning , the left fender was bent out of shape got it back pretty good but a spot weld had broke loose so I drilled and installed a 1/4" screw and all is good. Have to install an air filter assy but am waiting till I get the new carb, and I have to repair the RH steering rod end am working on a generic replacement as the Case ones are $36 to $48.00 not paying that, this is an earlier version so the rod end is a male\threaded stud the screws into the tie rod, I'm thinking I;ll cut threads on a 1/2" bolt making it 2/3" long and then use a tie rodend I have
 
Still tinkering on the 222, serviced the differential today drain lube looked like thick milk and the manual say 3 pints but the drain pan looked like it had 3 qts and of course made a mess on the shop floor, I first removed the fill plug and lube started coming out so I put back and removed the drain plug well it was coming out so slow that I removed the fill plug again well now I had lube coming out two places and a pan that was too small for the 2 streams, oh well got the floor cleaned up and service it with 3 pints of 80-90 wt GL. Also had a flat on the left rear so I added slime and checked the other tires all ok now. Figured it would be good to drive it get the slime all over in the tire all was going good engine running as it should decided to try hi-range and away I went had some fun driving around got back to the shop went to shift into reverse and the engine stopped just like the switch was shut off. Pushed it back into the shop checked for spark and nothing wiggled the wire from the coil to the point and had spark and the enginestarted wiggle some more and it stopped so I got busy and made a new wire from the points to the coil and all is good now. I really think the problem was the screw that attaches the coil wire to the points was loose and the wire would loose contact anyway replaced the screw with a better one and a lock washer, Case's are fun right?
 
Yep fun, Sounds like yours is coming along good Gary.

Find a tree Kenny and give it a pull.

Well thats about all I can do with mine. Drive it around and haul stuff. I do have the snowthrower for the winter. But I’d rather not be outside then.



Noel
 
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