Husqvarna Clearcut (Gen-2) 48" Fabricated Deck Mulch Conversion Made Simple

GT48DXLS

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
The fabricated deck (Husqvarna's Clearcut branded) 48" deck is very easy to convert, but part numbers are not easy to get picture confirmation. Here it is.

04MAY2019, I purchased this factory kit from my Newly found Dealer. So far I have one word to describe 3 purchases, and 6 interactions over approx 5 months...."Stellar!" It's important to me to recognize a Dealer that is proving to run his business ethically.

48" Mulch Kit
#5825599-01
and,
48cc Mower Containment Plate Service Kit
#594115001

These two kits are everything you need to convert the fabricated deck for effective mulching.
$82.52 total for both.

I put the converted deck back on the GT at approx 158 hrs. For those that have followed my GT story (2016 GT48DXLS purchased new in 2017), The frame failed at 63 hrs, and I have not had the mowing deck on this whole time, making the addition of time come to 95 hrs of only Johnny Bucket Jr time since all the modifications and it has been both a pleasure and flawless, as a side note.

Back to the kit,

I chose to take the side deflector off, the instructions show you can leave it on. I also chose to try the deck without the "containment plate", no baffling issues so far, so it will stay off for now. I can't say enough good things about this fabricated deck, very powerfull.
 

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more pictures,
 

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I see you had a "Gator" type mulching blade on before , please let us know why you opt for the mulching kit then the difference between the two as far as quality of finish cut , thanks Al
 
The short answer,

My new landscape feature in my front yard compelled the conversion of my mowing deck for a clean cut that would keep clippings from depositing in the landscape rock by sheer force, plus I wanted to simplify some clean-up on the drive with grass on the cars and under (ejecting clippings 25-30' against wind will put them on the cars). That's one area I have now eliminated the blower time from. It was that simple. The quality of cut was compromised a bit maybe, for removal of the gator blades, maybe. The jury is still out on that one.

It's my hope the part numbers will help simplify the search for this conversion, for those that have one of these 48" fabricated decks, regardless of the top mounts, pulley configuration, and brand name. These decks are not built by Husqvarna, they are used on many different brands and on zero turns. The brand may determine features but the basic deck will be the same.

As for the long answer that is apart of the decision;

I prefer the gator blades with this deck. This deck can move air with a lot of force, and it has the power to move the gator blades. One of the most striking, at least to me, when you first use this deck, is the intense blade sound verses mechanical mixed with other decks I've been exposed to. The sound from this deck is similar to aircraft propeller or air-boat propeller sound and it will eject the grass clippings easily 25-30 ft out the chute and the air volume it produces can be used as a blower. By the way, I prefer the blade sound.

A note here about the air, I became much more aware of this decks ability to eject things out toward the street and neighbors and such, that I was entertaining the idea of installing one of those commercial deck actuator controlled gates for the protection of passing cars to relieve the extra electric PTO use. The mulch kit is a cheaper way to go for sure. It's also for this reason, that grass catch accessories installed don't have to have a dedicated means of blowing the clippings into the containers (an extra blower motor adding to the total cost).

If someone has rough lawns like pasture and such that may have debris like rocks or sticks, you probably would not opt for mulching, but I will still leave this observation, the mulch plate is plastic and would probably be fine on other decks, the power of this deck will turn these things into little missiles and a metal plate would be preferable under these conditions. If your lawn is well established and well groomed, the plastic will probably be just fine. It's just a thought at this point.

Pay me now, pay me later does comes to my mind in the type of deck used with the balancing of expectations between your finished results, a brand name, color, material used, fancy trademarks, etc. don't guarantee a well cut lawn, specifically. Also the grass on a golf course most likely will have a different standard of cut quality verses a neighborhood with HOA specifics, climate zone, soil quality, personal financial commitment level, and the last because, some zones are easier to grow a thick healthy lawn than others that may equate to the amount of extra regular expense, and intended lawn use, etc. all play a part in the standard that might be used in determining a quality cut.

This deck (again I'm referring to GEN-2) is powerful enough to blow the clippings into the catch containers on that type of accessory, on its own, making an accessory purchase like that, cheaper than some others out there just to try and create word pictures as an example of force and volume.

This is what I've learned so far about rotary decks, also, a sharp blade is healthy for the grass (verses the nylon of a weed wacker ripping the grass), a spin momentum in the 3000 rpm's gives the optimum chance of getting a clean cut, and the more air volume you can move, contributes, with baffles, to the longer suspension of grass cuttings, exposing them to more cuts, which break down the grass to hopefully a fine mulch that can break down organically faster to add nutrients back to the lawn. The purpose of baffles increases blade efficiency much like the fan shroud that encases a propeller or fan on a hover craft, and the like.

If this is true, than the better decks for this are going to inherently have more blade noise than mechanical noise, better quality of transmission of power to the blades, such as pulleys with greater surface contact with belt, stronger hubs that can hold up to greater tension, or just pure direct power from a drive shaft.

Going back to the blades, like a propeller, the more aggressive the pitch, the more torque (or air pressure/volume) can be produced and the more drag is created. It's this increase in drag, at least in part, that will demand more HP/TQ to achieve maximum propeller efficiency (3000's RPM), as well as the transmission of power to the blades.

I installed a front yard landscape barrier (curved concrete footer) with a layer of wall stone brick and filled in with 5-6 tons of landscape rock. I was concerned with the gator blades being too powerful with the mulch containment gate on that it would still blow clippings out from under the deck from all sides and deposit on the rock. I have a mix of Argentine and Pensacola Bahia grass in mostly direct sun. The less aggressive blades do still influence an area approx 1' all around the outside of the deck and with the quality of cut still being acceptable (at 3"- 4"), I'll leave it for now.

I also left the extra baffle off for now to test if I thought it was needed. The extra baffling would allow for a great grass shelf (perhaps not great for the deck) to collect on and if it was not needed, I felt it would be healthier for the longevity of the deck to leave it off. I suspect if I put the extra baffle on it would eliminate that last bit of clippings that still escape from underneath, maybe.

If you leave the original deck chute on with the mulch cover installed as designed, it would be very easy to take the mulch plate off if you wanted, because no tools are needed. I removed the original chute on mine because of all the current ground implement work I do and it was constantly getting in the way, by the extra awkward width it contributed too. If I was using this mower for just grass cutting and trailers, I may have left it on.
 
The short answer,

My new landscape feature in my front yard compelled the conversion of my mowing deck for a clean cut that would keep clippings from depositing in the landscape rock by sheer force, plus I wanted to simplify some clean-up on the drive with grass on the cars and under (ejecting clippings 25-30' against wind will put them on the cars). That's one area I have now eliminated the blower time from. It was that simple. The quality of cut was compromised a bit maybe, for removal of the gator blades, maybe. The jury is still out on that one.

It's my hope the part numbers will help simplify the search for this conversion, for those that have one of these 48" fabricated decks, regardless of the top mounts, pulley configuration, and brand name. These decks are not built by Husqvarna, they are used on many different brands and on zero turns. The brand may determine features but the basic deck will be the same.

As for the long answer that is apart of the decision;

I prefer the gator blades with this deck. This deck can move air with a lot of force, and it has the power to move the gator blades. One of the most striking, at least to me, when you first use this deck, is the intense blade sound verses mechanical mixed with other decks I've been exposed to. The sound from this deck is similar to aircraft propeller or air-boat propeller sound and it will eject the grass clippings easily 25-30 ft out the chute and the air volume it produces can be used as a blower. By the way, I prefer the blade sound.

A note here about the air, I became much more aware of this decks ability to eject things out toward the street and neighbors and such, that I was entertaining the idea of installing one of those commercial deck actuator controlled gates for the protection of passing cars to relieve the extra electric PTO use. The mulch kit is a cheaper way to go for sure. It's also for this reason, that grass catch accessories installed don't have to have a dedicated means of blowing the clippings into the containers (an extra blower motor adding to the total cost).

If someone has rough lawns like pasture and such that may have debris like rocks or sticks, you probably would not opt for mulching, but I will still leave this observation, the mulch plate is plastic and would probably be fine on other decks, the power of this deck will turn these things into little missiles and a metal plate would be preferable under these conditions. If your lawn is well established and well groomed, the plastic will probably be just fine. It's just a thought at this point.

Pay me now, pay me later does comes to my mind in the type of deck used with the balancing of expectations between your finished results, a brand name, color, material used, fancy trademarks, etc. don't guarantee a well cut lawn, specifically. Also the grass on a golf course most likely will have a different standard of cut quality verses a neighborhood with HOA specifics, climate zone, soil quality, personal financial commitment level, and the last because, some zones are easier to grow a thick healthy lawn than others that may equate to the amount of extra regular expense, and intended lawn use, etc. all play a part in the standard that might be used in determining a quality cut.

This deck (again I'm referring to GEN-2) is powerful enough to blow the clippings into the catch containers on that type of accessory, on its own, making an accessory purchase like that, cheaper than some others out there just to try and create word pictures as an example of force and volume.

This is what I've learned so far about rotary decks, also, a sharp blade is healthy for the grass (verses the nylon of a weed wacker ripping the grass), a spin momentum in the 3000 rpm's gives the optimum chance of getting a clean cut, and the more air volume you can move, contributes, with baffles, to the longer suspension of grass cuttings, exposing them to more cuts, which break down the grass to hopefully a fine mulch that can break down organically faster to add nutrients back to the lawn. The purpose of baffles increases blade efficiency much like the fan shroud that encases a propeller or fan on a hover craft, and the like.

If this is true, than the better decks for this are going to inherently have more blade noise than mechanical noise, better quality of transmission of power to the blades, such as pulleys with greater surface contact with belt, stronger hubs that can hold up to greater tension, or just pure direct power from a drive shaft.

Going back to the blades, like a propeller, the more aggressive the pitch, the more torque (or air pressure/volume) can be produced and the more drag is created. It's this increase in drag, at least in part, that will demand more HP/TQ to achieve maximum propeller efficiency (3000's RPM), as well as the transmission of power to the blades.

I installed a front yard landscape barrier (curved concrete footer) with a layer of wall stone brick and filled in with 5-6 tons of landscape rock. I was concerned with the gator blades being too powerful with the mulch containment gate on that it would still blow clippings out from under the deck from all sides and deposit on the rock. I have a mix of Argentine and Pensacola Bahia grass in mostly direct sun. The less aggressive blades do still influence an area approx 1' all around the outside of the deck and with the quality of cut still being acceptable (at 3"- 4"), I'll leave it for now.

I also left the extra baffle off for now to test if I thought it was needed. The extra baffling would allow for a great grass shelf (perhaps not great for the deck) to collect on and if it was not needed, I felt it would be healthier for the longevity of the deck to leave it off. I suspect if I put the extra baffle on it would eliminate that last bit of clippings that still escape from underneath, maybe.

If you leave the original deck chute on with the mulch cover installed as designed, it would be very easy to take the mulch plate off if you wanted, because no tools are needed. I removed the original chute on mine because of all the current ground implement work I do and it was constantly getting in the way, by the extra awkward width it contributed too. If I was using this mower for just grass cutting and trailers, I may have left it on.

Excellent info. You're not kidding. This thing can throw some grass! I'm very dissatisfied with the bagger blades that come on my GT 48DXLS, they leave huge clumps and piles of trimmings. I've been considering ordering the mulch kit. I did not know about the containment kit. I've had great luck with gator blades before on my 04' GTH 2448 that had the 48" stamped deck. I used the gators with a mulch plug and it did satisfactory if I didn't let the grass get too high. Much of my yard is on a slope with rolling dips and high points. I looked on the Oregon site for Gator blades for this mower to no avail, and then I called them and they said they do not make them for this deck. What is the part number for the Gator Blades you're using?
 
Your repeated referrals to the power of this deck and it's ability to throw items makes me wonder about the tip speed of your blades. Aren't there federal safety mandates about such things?
 
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Your repeated referrals to the power of this deck and it's ability to throw items makes me wonder about the tip speed of your blades. Aren't there federal safety mandates about such things?

Only when flying!
 
I have maybe a older deck YT48XLS 2014 not shore if this kit will fit. also i have been on line and cant find a dealer to talk to about ordering 1 any info would be great thanks
 
I have maybe a older deck YT48XLS 2014 not shore if this kit will fit. also i have been on line and cant find a dealer to talk to about ordering 1 any info would be great thanks

I apologize for the long delay in getting back to you. I do think the 2014 had some minor differences though underneath in air baffling. Does your deck have air baffles underneath? If not, I think the kit for yours adds internal air baffles to shroud the mulching blades. Possibly this?

Husqvarna YT48XLS Mulch Kit #965894003 _ Safford Equipment Company - Comodo Dragon 5_16_2021 1...png

To validate your experience, the confusion that does surround the fab deck mulch kits is what caused me to right this.

What I did find out back when I was making my original search, is that the fab decks are the same as on the ZT's of equivalent size and years, except mount points.

I hope this helps,

GT
 
I am going crazy trying to find the mulch kit for the TS248XD (part 582559901). I ordered from Husqvparts.com in April, and all I get every month is that the part is not in stock....wait another month. Any help you can provide would be great. Also, will the above part work WITHOUT the containment plates (594115001)?
 
I am going crazy trying to find the mulch kit for the TS248XD (part 582559901). I ordered from Husqvparts.com in April, and all I get every month is that the part is not in stock....wait another month. Any help you can provide would be great. Also, will the above part work WITHOUT the containment plates (594115001)?
I feel your pain, And I wrote a new thread on my waiting for a rock rake here,


We are all having problems with supply, and it doesn't seem like it's going to get better anytime soon.

About your question of minimums to convert to mulching.....

Yes, at minimum, mulching blades and cover will work, the deck does produce a lot of air, but will be more efecient with the baffles.

I also think I may have a way of finding what you need under different part numbers, I'll look into it.

GT
 
I’ve got the 48DXLS mower, my local dealer wants $200.00 for the mulch kit. I will run the numbers from you and see what they say about firmest for my beck.
 
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Just wanted to confirm that the 582559901 is indeed the correct kit for the GT48DXLS. Despite several Husqvarna reps as well as a few online retailers all trying to tell me the $200 mulch kit was correct, I took the gamble and went with the recommendation in this thread. I installed it yesterday and my yard looks absolutely fantastic.
 
What is the purpose of the 594115001 containment plate service kit and do I need to install it for a better mulch? Thanks!
 
Why does Husqvarna have so many ribbed steel sections on the underside of this deck. Wouldn't it make more sense to be flat for better airflow and less buildup?
 
The short answer,

My new landscape feature in my front yard compelled the conversion of my mowing deck for a clean cut that would keep clippings from depositing in the landscape rock by sheer force, plus I wanted to simplify some clean-up on the drive with grass on the cars and under (ejecting clippings 25-30' against wind will put them on the cars). That's one area I have now eliminated the blower time from. It was that simple. The quality of cut was compromised a bit maybe, for removal of the gator blades, maybe. The jury is still out on that one.

It's my hope the part numbers will help simplify the search for this conversion, for those that have one of these 48" fabricated decks, regardless of the top mounts, pulley configuration, and brand name. These decks are not built by Husqvarna, they are used on many different brands and on zero turns. The brand may determine features but the basic deck will be the same.

As for the long answer that is apart of the decision;

I prefer the gator blades with this deck. This deck can move air with a lot of force, and it has the power to move the gator blades. One of the most striking, at least to me, when you first use this deck, is the intense blade sound verses mechanical mixed with other decks I've been exposed to. The sound from this deck is similar to aircraft propeller or air-boat propeller sound and it will eject the grass clippings easily 25-30 ft out the chute and the air volume it produces can be used as a blower. By the way, I prefer the blade sound.

A note here about the air, I became much more aware of this decks ability to eject things out toward the street and neighbors and such, that I was entertaining the idea of installing one of those commercial deck actuator controlled gates for the protection of passing cars to relieve the extra electric PTO use. The mulch kit is a cheaper way to go for sure. It's also for this reason, that grass catch accessories installed don't have to have a dedicated means of blowing the clippings into the containers (an extra blower motor adding to the total cost).

If someone has rough lawns like pasture and such that may have debris like rocks or sticks, you probably would not opt for mulching, but I will still leave this observation, the mulch plate is plastic and would probably be fine on other decks, the power of this deck will turn these things into little missiles and a metal plate would be preferable under these conditions. If your lawn is well established and well groomed, the plastic will probably be just fine. It's just a thought at this point.

Pay me now, pay me later does comes to my mind in the type of deck used with the balancing of expectations between your finished results, a brand name, color, material used, fancy trademarks, etc. don't guarantee a well cut lawn, specifically. Also the grass on a golf course most likely will have a different standard of cut quality verses a neighborhood with HOA specifics, climate zone, soil quality, personal financial commitment level, and the last because, some zones are easier to grow a thick healthy lawn than others that may equate to the amount of extra regular expense, and intended lawn use, etc. all play a part in the standard that might be used in determining a quality cut.

This deck (again I'm referring to GEN-2) is powerful enough to blow the clippings into the catch containers on that type of accessory, on its own, making an accessory purchase like that, cheaper than some others out there just to try and create word pictures as an example of force and volume.

This is what I've learned so far about rotary decks, also, a sharp blade is healthy for the grass (verses the nylon of a weed wacker ripping the grass), a spin momentum in the 3000 rpm's gives the optimum chance of getting a clean cut, and the more air volume you can move, contributes, with baffles, to the longer suspension of grass cuttings, exposing them to more cuts, which break down the grass to hopefully a fine mulch that can break down organically faster to add nutrients back to the lawn. The purpose of baffles increases blade efficiency much like the fan shroud that encases a propeller or fan on a hover craft, and the like.

If this is true, than the better decks for this are going to inherently have more blade noise than mechanical noise, better quality of transmission of power to the blades, such as pulleys with greater surface contact with belt, stronger hubs that can hold up to greater tension, or just pure direct power from a drive shaft.

Going back to the blades, like a propeller, the more aggressive the pitch, the more torque (or air pressure/volume) can be produced and the more drag is created. It's this increase in drag, at least in part, that will demand more HP/TQ to achieve maximum propeller efficiency (3000's RPM), as well as the transmission of power to the blades.

I installed a front yard landscape barrier (curved concrete footer) with a layer of wall stone brick and filled in with 5-6 tons of landscape rock. I was concerned with the gator blades being too powerful with the mulch containment gate on that it would still blow clippings out from under the deck from all sides and deposit on the rock. I have a mix of Argentine and Pensacola Bahia grass in mostly direct sun. The less aggressive blades do still influence an area approx 1' all around the outside of the deck and with the quality of cut still being acceptable (at 3"- 4"), I'll leave it for now.

I also left the extra baffle off for now to test if I thought it was needed. The extra baffling would allow for a great grass shelf (perhaps not great for the deck) to collect on and if it was not needed, I felt it would be healthier for the longevity of the deck to leave it off. I suspect if I put the extra baffle on it would eliminate that last bit of clippings that still escape from underneath, maybe.

If you leave the original deck chute on with the mulch cover installed as designed, it would be very easy to take the mulch plate off if you wanted, because no tools are needed. I removed the original chute on mine because of all the current ground implement work I do and it was constantly getting in the way, by the extra awkward width it contributed too. If I was using this mower for just grass cutting and trailers, I may have left it on.
Thank you for an excellent post. I have the TS248XD and I have installed the same mulch kit. However I am looking for the correct Gator blades to install on this 48" Clearcut deck. Is it possible to get a Gator part number from someone? It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Joe
 
Thank you for an excellent post. I have the TS248XD and I have installed the same mulch kit. However I am looking for the correct Gator blades to install on this 48" Clearcut deck. Is it possible to get a Gator part number from someone? It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Joe
There you go mate. Also a link on Jacks Small Engines.
I have the 48" clearcut on the Z448. Great blades but the deck design is pretty crap TBH. I find when I'm on taller grass in my paddock using these they leave heaps of stragglers because they clog the top of the deck up pretty quickly. They are really good on my yard though! You can't even see any clippings there. If you want a real low cut they are not the best either. They cut about 10mm higher than the OEM because they are a flat blade compared to the OEM blades. You can see in the pic side by side the difference.
 

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