Love for my mid sized trailer

MH81

Tractorologist
Staff member
Administrator
I bought this 6 by 10 trailer a little over a year ago from a friend. words for beginning to rot, and there was a lot of flex in the frame.
I ran it for a year, and then decided it would continue to stay in the stable. Waiting for the boards to go on sale, bought some new lights, and starting the process.
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it was too late to take any pictures after I quit, but all the boards are on and the lights are wired. I still have to install the license plate light and finish the rear anchors on the boards.

After that is done, I plan on welding some rebar reinforcement to take up any residual twist. It is so much better than it ever was before, I think I'm going to like this
 
All new wiring, dual jacket.
Sealed connections boxes.
Sealed as much as reasonable.
Using UR style Crimp connectors where no boxes
 
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I can understand your liking a trailer that size as I feel the same way having a 6 x 11 myself. Mine was an old skid steer trail and like you I refurbished it. Tows nice and is easy to maneuver around in small areas. You get half the use out of yours as I have you'll be very pleased.
 
New treated boards

Rebar reinforcements welded under and down sides to take "twist" out

Welded D rings on both side rails

Sealed boxes at large junctions

UR style Crimp conns with sealant at each light.

Main lead is a dual jacket wire.

New sealed tail/brake/marker lights

I still want to replace the licence plate light and the mesh on the gate.
Need a budget upgrade first.
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If you really want to eliminate the twist and you have clearance between the axle and crossmembers, remove two center deck boards and flip the tlr over. Get a piece of 4" pipe long enough to reach from front to back, notch all cross members to accept the pipe, then weld the pipe to front, rear and all cross members.
Mike
 
If you really want to eliminate the twist and you have clearance between the axle and crossmembers, remove two center deck boards and flip the tlr over. Get a piece of 4" pipe long enough to reach from front to back, notch all cross members to accept the pipe, then weld the pipe to front, rear and all cross members.
Mike
Sounds like a good idea, but...
The axle is between 2 cross members and there is only a half inch clearance between the plane of the crossmembers and the axle tube.

What I was able to do, made a huge difference. If I need to do more, I will weld some angle iron on top of the rails, like a teepee
 
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