I danced around on the internet to get some ideas but most required buying things. I enjoy using what I have and the challenge. It took me awhile but I think I came up with a good deterrent from theft.
All my square tube stock was either too small or to big so I improvised by using a 6’ section of 3/4” black iron pipe.
I used some 1 1/4”x 1/8” angle iron to make a wall pocket the bar can slide into. I had to separate it a little before tack welding so it would create some slop so the bar could be raised slightly up to clear the wall bracket on the other end. I welded the pocket on top of a piece of 2”x 2 1/2” x 1/4” piece of angle iron. The three holes on the bottom of the angle iron is so I can weld the bottom of the pocket to the angle iron.
I welded a 1/4” plate steel on the other end of the bar to accept the lock. I cut out a tang that would slide inside the bar then drilled a hole all the way through to drive a pin through. I welded the pin to the top and bottom of the bar. I pressed the bar down to the tab to close the gap for welding.
The locking end wall bracket is just a section of 2”x 2 1/4” x 1/4” angle iron.
This pad lock is extremely big and heavy. It had good reviews except for rusting some. The problem reviews for rusting were used on ship containers that had this problem. I’ll give it a good coat of oil. Ion’t get a lot of bad weather because I have a 2’ overhang above the doors.
The inside drop bar is a 5/8” bar stock heated then bent for a handle. The slider bracket is a piece of 3” x 1/4” c channel. I’ll drill the hole in the floor plate later for a metal sleeve to accept the drop bar. I know if this hole gets wet it’s going to shrink without a sleeve.
The other is just the typical gate latch and handles.
All the wall bolts are drilled through 5” of wood framing using 7/16” x 6”carriage bolts. Thanks for looking!
All my square tube stock was either too small or to big so I improvised by using a 6’ section of 3/4” black iron pipe.
I used some 1 1/4”x 1/8” angle iron to make a wall pocket the bar can slide into. I had to separate it a little before tack welding so it would create some slop so the bar could be raised slightly up to clear the wall bracket on the other end. I welded the pocket on top of a piece of 2”x 2 1/2” x 1/4” piece of angle iron. The three holes on the bottom of the angle iron is so I can weld the bottom of the pocket to the angle iron.
I welded a 1/4” plate steel on the other end of the bar to accept the lock. I cut out a tang that would slide inside the bar then drilled a hole all the way through to drive a pin through. I welded the pin to the top and bottom of the bar. I pressed the bar down to the tab to close the gap for welding.
The locking end wall bracket is just a section of 2”x 2 1/4” x 1/4” angle iron.This pad lock is extremely big and heavy. It had good reviews except for rusting some. The problem reviews for rusting were used on ship containers that had this problem. I’ll give it a good coat of oil. Ion’t get a lot of bad weather because I have a 2’ overhang above the doors.
The inside drop bar is a 5/8” bar stock heated then bent for a handle. The slider bracket is a piece of 3” x 1/4” c channel. I’ll drill the hole in the floor plate later for a metal sleeve to accept the drop bar. I know if this hole gets wet it’s going to shrink without a sleeve.
The other is just the typical gate latch and handles.
All the wall bolts are drilled through 5” of wood framing using 7/16” x 6”carriage bolts. Thanks for looking!
