Primer?

dodge trucker

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
I have a couple of cast aluminum mower decks that I want to paint, will be trying out one of my air powered detail size spray guns cuz they seem more "right sized" for the job vs one of my old school Binks#7. (Which hasn't been used in years either)
These are "Bobcat" brand commercial mower decks many of which were green originally anyways.
Besides the "dream sickle" colored ones which mine originally were.

Been meaning to go by the auto body paint store to grab a quart of paint for them, but before I made it to the paint store I tripped over a gallon of OEM John Deere green at a garage sale. Not what I was after for those but I had an armload of stuff including that gallon of paint, and got it all for $5. That gallon can is over 3/4 full too...... I can get the actual PN off the can once I get home if it would make a difference to the answer I'm looking for. I know it starts with "TY" with 4 numbers behind that.
My question is what primer(s) could I use under this paint that won't cause problems? Does the answer change since the base metal is cast aluminum instead of steel? I hope the answer won't be that I have to go get "their" primer.
 

Lance Skene

Alberta, Canada
Senior Member
Member
the tricky part might be finding a primer that will stick to aluminum... it does NOT paint well. I cant make any recommendations but thats where I would start my search if I needed to.
 

MFDAC

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
Usually any "self etching" primer will stick well to aluminum, and most paint will stick well to it. I'll usually hit it with a scotchbrite before painting. Duplicolor is what I use, but recently bought a can of Rustoleum self etching primer. I haven't tested that one yet.

DAC
 

dodge trucker

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
well, I'm hoping to find a "catch all" primer that works well with steel/sheet metal under this paint, too. Possible? I hope it is.
most original paint on these decks I'm wanting to paint is gone, what is left is pretty chalky, was thinking of hitting them with a bead blast to strip what remains, but looking at them, a wire wheel might make pretty quick work of that too. but whatever it takes I hope to start with bare aluminum.
Being "cast" aluminum it does have a texture like the "business side" of a piece of emery cloth, hopefully that provides some "grab".
but the handles and deflector shields as well as the handle brackets are steel..... hoping not to have to use a different primer for each.
 

Sawdust

Jim from Pendleton County, Kentucky
Senior Member
Member
I have used the Rustoleum Self Etching primer on several things with good results like Lance mentioned. My MF12 has been SB and primed with it 6 years ago and packed away still in good shape. Some of the parts were cast aluminum.
 

dodge trucker

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
huh.... weird. My exp has always been use ALL Rustoleum or NO Rustoleum. When I have used their primer and someone elses top coat OR someone elses primer and Rustoleum top coat I have always had where the top coat lifts and cracks, then peels. Unless Im going over many year old work.
Every time I have mixed Rustoleum and someone else it has been a guaranteed recipe for a redo.
 

Jazz

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
huh.... weird. My exp has always been use ALL Rustoleum or NO Rustoleum. When I have used their primer and someone elses top coat OR someone elses primer and Rustoleum top coat I have always had where the top coat lifts and cracks, then peels. Unless Im going over many year old work.
Every time I have mixed Rustoleum and someone else it has been a guaranteed recipe for a redo.

I have read Rustoleum not compatible with other paints which is why I never buy the stuff. I only use epoxy primer, preferably Kirker brand.
 

olcowhand

Daniel In KY
Staff member
Administrator
If not using self etching primer, after aluminum is clean and ready for primer, etch it with plain old vinegar, any type will do. After it sits about 10 or more minutes, wipe off with damp rag. Then when dry, have at it with primer.
 

Pakrat

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
I used Krylon primer because that’s what I had on my MTD 990 with Rustoleum as a finish coat. The finish coat is brittle. It’s holding up just ok but the right amount of impact it cracks or chips.
[/QUOT
huh.... weird. My exp has always been use ALL Rustoleum or NO Rustoleum. When I have used their primer and someone elses top coat OR someone elses primer and Rustoleum top coat I have always had where the top coat lifts and cracks, then peels. Unless Im going over many year old work.
Every time I have mixed Rustoleum and someone else it has been a guaranteed recipe for a redo.
Use a light, even coat if zinc chromate on the clean aluminum parts, let dry overnight, then use whatever primer and paint system you choose.
 

dodge trucker

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
I thought they'd outlawed the zinc chromate primer (think: EPA) I remember my brother buying a gallon of zinc chromate primer from the suppler who the school district he worked for, got their paint from.
I was gonna go get a gallon of automotive grade primer since (besides a few little tractor and mower projects that I have), I have a pickup truck that I want to strip and paint.
Being as how the aluminum decks are all the aluminum that I have needing paint I'm wondering if I can get a couple of spray bombs of zinc chromate primer?
 

Sawdust

Jim from Pendleton County, Kentucky
Senior Member
Member
I thought they'd outlawed the zinc chromate primer (think: EPA) I remember my brother buying a gallon of zinc chromate primer from the suppler who the school district he worked for, got their paint from.
I was gonna go get a gallon of automotive grade primer since (besides a few little tractor and mower projects that I have), I have a pickup truck that I want to strip and paint.
Being as how the aluminum decks are all the aluminum that I have needing paint I'm wondering if I can get a couple of spray bombs of zinc chromate primer?
I found some on Amazon but most are either green or yellow. I have used the Rust-Oleum self etching primer with good results but it too looks like a greenish gray. The ZC primer is pricey around $17. a can.
 

dodge trucker

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
went and spent too much at the automotive paint place in town today. Got some hi temp (1500*) cast iron gray manifold paint, KBS brand (direct competition for POR 15) POR's was "only" good to 1200*. gonna try some on my slant 6 exhaust manifold for the newly rebuilt engine going into my 85 D150.
a can ea of POR 15 solvent and "metal Ready", 2 rattle cans of etch primer and a can of POR 15 silver, plus a gallon of enamel reducer....
I was gonna get a gallon of automotive grade primer too/ but I gotta check into what he wanted to sell me 1st.... I asked for 1 gallon and he handed me a 2 part system, was 2-1 gallon cans. Im not too familiar with that, so I set it back for time being..... the last time I painted a car was ~35 years ago, and Du Pont Centari was "among the best" but doesn't exist any more.... I'm way behind what's current..... I have some tractor/ small engine stuff to paint before bad weather hits, but have some Googling and you tubing to do I guess..... I have some automotive bodywork Id like to try (again been a LONG time) and hope some of these materials carry over to help dissipate what it costs me......
among that body work is to throw a coat of something on my cab roof of my 96 4wd Dakota whose roof is all surface rust/ why does white paint like to delaminate and peel? I've seen this in all brands of vehicles. not looking for "like new"/ "show quality" but just to make it look a little better and maybe get 1-2 more years out of that old truck....... its been demoted to winter
beater with heater, just for its 4wd.
 
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