Question about a Lawn Tractor

MFDAC

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
I know most of you scrap these things, but it's not mine. I'm just trying to get it mowing for a friend.

Since it is an obscure brand---Gardenway, I'm not finding much info on it. Sounds like Sam's Club sold them at one time. It's one of those cheapie Troy built MTD things so I'm sure it is identical to Yardman and what not but the model number isn't doing me any good. I wanted to find it in "Tractor Data" but no Gardenway listed.

All I need to know is what kind of fluid would be used in this little hydro transaxle. I can't see how to check the fluid level either. I didn't want to crank on that little black cap on what appears to be a plastic tank. I am ready to shove the deck under it, hook that up and change engine oil to see how it will mow. It also seems that the operator has to pull and hold the fender lever in reverse to back up. It won't stay in position so both hands can be on the steering wheel.

Any help is appreciated!

DAC

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I read awhile back most of these newer trannys are sealed units. They are some that have a plastic plug when popped out the fluid can be checked. I seen some YouTube videos on this. Not being able to service these are the death of them, of course that’s the design to force another new purchase. Probably try to find out how this one compares to some other brands. Since I’ve been working on my dads little Craftsman I’m finding out a lot of parts interchange since MTD made most of them.
 
Hi Doug is the hydro giving trouble? For the most part they are serviceable kind of considered throw always, Having said that I have added oil to a couple that helped when climbing hills on really hot days and its been working fine ever since I used 15-40 engine oil most of this light duty hydro use like 30 wt engine oil
Many of these hydros are Hydro-Gear or Tuff-torque units there might be a data tag attached to the hydro some where
 
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I know most of you scrap these things, but it's not mine. I'm just trying to get it mowing for a friend.

Since it is an obscure brand---Gardenway, I'm not finding much info on it. Sounds like Sam's Club sold them at one time. It's one of those cheapie Troy built MTD things so I'm sure it is identical to Yardman and what not but the model number isn't doing me any good. I wanted to find it in "Tractor Data" but no Gardenway listed.

All I need to know is what kind of fluid would be used in this little hydro transaxle. I can't see how to check the fluid level either. I didn't want to crank on that little black cap on what appears to be a plastic tank. I am ready to shove the deck under it, hook that up and change engine oil to see how it will mow. It also seems that the operator has to pull and hold the fender lever in reverse to back up. It won't stay in position so both hands can be on the steering wheel.

Any help is appreciated!

DAC

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Maybe post up some more pictures of the whole mower at different veiws. Maybe it will look familiar to someone. Got to be mowers out there that were the same.
And yea don't be surprised if you can't check or add oil to the trans..
 
As said Troy Built made these so I seen. There's a number of u tube videos on different ones so there might be one you can compare to.

Also Parts Tree had listing for a Gardenway "Sam Club" model.
 
Look for a tag on it. The low end offerings from most of the transaxle manufacturers can’t be serviced. Some guys got creative with like the K46 and remove it from the tractor. Fill the unit upside down on a coffee can and let it drain for a couple days. Then refill them.

My experience has been once they start to slip or get weak it’s already too late.
 
A number of years ago I read a good post somewhere that another problem with the low end hydros is they no no external filter but do have a internal screen and that can get clogged causing problems and the only way to clean it is to dissemble the unit
 
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Tahoe and myself knew a guy that had a field of what looked like real nice mowers. I asked him what is the main problem of these and he said sealed trannys. He said if he had a source for trannys he could have a lot of them sold as nice mowers.
 
I had several of those sealed hydro tractors out back at the old place.... so far just 1 at the new place...... if they dont work properly there is no point to working on them.... with the time involved to remove/rebuild/replace them the billed hours soon become more than the value of the tractor.

There is a screen inside most of them BUT.... if there is anything at all in that screen then the transaxle has other issues that are creating that debris.... on the other hand if the screen is still clean then its probably safe to assume there is no major internal problems.
 
Doug I just read the Garden Way went bankrupt on 2001. Since these were made by Troy Built the parts or manuals are probably comparative.
Yeah Jim, I'm sure that there's a lotof Troy built mowers just like this that are more common brands. I just don't know which ones.

Hi Doug is the hydro giving trouble? For the most part they are serviceable kind of considered throw always, Having said that I have added oil to a couple that helped when climbing hills on really hot days and its been working fine ever since I used 15-40 engine oil most of this light duty hydro use like 30 wt engine oil
Many of these hydros are Hydro-Gear or Tuff-torque units there might be a data tag attached to the hydro some where
I didn't really know if the hydro was having issues, Gary. I did start the tractor and drive it up to my trailer to load it when I picked it up. A friend of ours bought a house and this tractor was sitting in the yard when they moved in. Had been sitting a long time. This hydro is a "Hydro Gear". Follow up after answering the comments.

As said Troy Built made these so I seen. There's a number of u tube videos on different ones so there might be one you can compare to.

Also Parts Tree had listing for a Gardenway "Sam Club" model.
Bill, the tractor in the video is almost identical to this one except the brake pedal is mounted a little different. I had run across that video and the Parts Tree link while I did some searches. Ran into one on the deck removal too. It still didn't help me learn about how this thing works, and adjustments to the cutting deck, or hydro information.

Lots of great advice there Doug. You tube is a great resource. My YT16H Ford tractor uses 20w motor oil. So when I need oil in it I put 10w-30 to top it up. Works fine. Gary’s idea of 15w-40 is good too.

Noel
Yes Noel, the advice here is priceless! I appreciate every comment!

I had several of those sealed hydro tractors out back at the old place.... so far just 1 at the new place...... if they dont work properly there is no point to working on them.... with the time involved to remove/rebuild/replace them the billed hours soon become more than the value of the tractor.

There is a screen inside most of them BUT.... if there is anything at all in that screen then the transaxle has other issues that are creating that debris.... on the other hand if the screen is still clean then its probably safe to assume there is no major internal problems.
Makes sense that if the screen clogs that it is debris from the internal parts, Lance. I was rolling the dice that maybe this thing could be put back to work even though it has a lot of simpler problems.

I really appreciate all of you taking time to give me some advice on a tractor that really doesn't fit this forum! This place is the best!

I finished putting a new drive belt and deck belt on. I did find part numbers for those with the help of that Parts Tree site. I didn't order them there though. The deck went back on ok, but there is a tensioner spring that was a bear to get back on.

Then It was time to try to fire it up. The deck blades are still spinning with the deck up in the off position. Noticed that before the engine fired. Quit that and took that tough spring back off and put a weaker one on it. The blades would not spin in the off position then.

Fired up the engine and it was flooding bad. I figured that the chinese carb was a piece of crap. Never had a problem with one before, including the one on my '55 GMC. I took the air filter off to look at the carb better while running and it fired up and ran great! The carb came with a air filter element and a sock. I took the sock off and put the air filter back on. It still ran great, so that sock must be too restrictive. Adjusted the idle and idle mixture by ear and decided I better try to drive it to see how the hydro works.

Drove out into the windstorm and everything seems to be working great! Hydro responds well in forward and reverse and the speeds are smooth. It can barely creep or go pretty fast and everything in between. Reverse is a bit fast but throttling down worked fine there too.

I figured just as well try to test mowing. It seemed fine in shorter grass, so I headed for the drain field where the grass suddenly has jumped up to 5 or 6 inches! Nope, the belt slips too much for that.

I need to find out how to adjust the deck belt tension tighter for mowing and still have the blades disengage when the deck is raised.

At least the tractor runs good and the hydro seems good! The transaxle is a "Hydro Gear" brand and the sticker also says "Made in the U.S.A." That might just be the sticker itself though---LOL!

DAC
 
I put the stiffer deck spring back in and decided to pull the belt guide pins on either side of the engine pulley. They are in such a position that they squeeze the belt around the pulley so tight that it keeps the belt moving. This tractor has no deck belt pto. I tried searching for an hour or so today on adjustments for this type of deck with no luck. Pulling those pins helped a lot. The blades almost stop when the deck is up in the disengage position now. They move very slow but if someone stuck there foot in there, I don't think it could hurt. I still want them to stop completely though.

I went out and mowed the front yard and finished around the septic tank and drain field. It did a good job and handled the taller grass well this time.
I would still hate mowing with this thing full time though! If the hydro had foot controls it would be a much better tractor in my opinion. I pretty much had to do all the steering with my left hand because to adjust speed I was constantly needing to hang on to the forward-reverse-speed lever. Pretty much impossible to just set the lever at a good speed and go. I need to slow down and speed up too much in this yard. Still much prefer the old MF12G, cut quality and ease of operation, even though the Vari-Speed pedal can get a little tiring on the left leg sometimes. I also didn't like that the blades need to be shut off to back up. I could probably disconnect the kill switch that is attached to the lever slot. The seat safety switch was already unplugged.

While the oil was hot I sucked it out with the marine pump I use on the Honda clone engine in the MF12G. The drain plug is in a stupid place on that Gardenway and oil flows all over the frame rather than straight into a pan. Hopefully tomorrow I can get some plumbing fittings to at least get it over the edge of the frame. That happens on the MF12G too but that engine didn't come in the tractor originally so there is an excuse there!

DAC

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Most of mine are hand control. The Fords are foot control. Kinda depends what work your doing with them. But I would favour the foot control some. I find the the Fords are difficult when sod plowing. I normally sit around to the right on the seat so I can see what the Plow is doing. That makes it hard to operate the foot control. I think a hand operated right fender mount control would be better.

Noel
 
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