Working on the 73 Power King

MNGB

MNGB

Tractorologist
Member
After I finished up the battery/point conversion on the 73's engine I was tiding up the wiring and holding everything in place with zip-ties, prior to that I had started and run the engine a number of time and all was fine, so when I finished up with the zip-ties I started it and run it again and found it wasn't charging so I checked connections and found the connector to the rectifier.\/voltage reg had gotten very hot at one time and melted some, So I figured this was probably the problem replaced connectors with new still nothing checked for AC on the stator wire it was intermittent at best so I tried to see if I could find a bad spot in the stator wires didn't have much luck so I removed the hood, gas tank the grill PTO clutch and then the flywheel shroud to get to the flywheel. Removed the flywheel expecting to find a broken / missing magnet or burned stator to my surprise it was one of the cleanest stator & flywheel I seen in a while magnet all in place so I started checking the stator wires found that they mush have been pretty hot at one time as the insulation was burnt and crispy. Removed the wires and replaced with new 18 ga aircraft wires. started reinstalling the stator
 
Good to hear that you have found the problem and are in the process of getting the stator reinstalled. If the stator wires appear to have gotten hot just near the engine it could be that the engine may have been running on the warm side at some point in its life. If the stator wires appear to have gotten hot all the way to the rectifier / regulator connector it might be prudent to replace the rectifier / regulator as preventative maintenance. Since the voltage regulation circuit part of a rectifier / regulator used in most permanent magnet alternator systems usually shunts the alternating current produced in the stator momentarily to ground to regulate the voltage level at the battery there may be a component inside that is damaged inside the rectifier / regulator that caused the stator wires to get hot by shunting the alternator current to ground for a longer period of time than it should have been. Just a suggestion.
 
Got all the wires connected started the engine the voltmeter didn't do much then went to 14+ volts gave it a few more R's and it went to 15+ volts then came down to 14.5 or so let it run for a short time shut it off did a few things then started the engine again this time nothing. So this morning I removed the VR checked for AC on the stator wire that was good so I tried another VR it went right up to 14+ volts that was good but I tried another VR started the engine and again it went to 14+ volts.
So I think your right Stew the VR is bad and most likely caused the stator wires to get over heated. This afternoon I'll install the working VR
 
Last edited:
This afternoon I finished up the wiring and Voltage Reg install, started the engine (it sure started good with the points saver installed) voltmeter went right up to 14 VDC, so tomorrow I'll install the top engine ducting, torque the spark plug install the air cleaner assy and then the hood and that should make it ready to go.
The first picture is of the bad VR and the last is the good working one
20240101_150904.jpg20240102_150235.jpg20240102_150323.jpg20240102_150338.jpg20240102_150439.jpg
 
Wow ,thank you internet .I was wondering what might be wrong with my power king 14/24 14 horse K321s not having spark when I just used it parked it.went to use it again and lost spark.it has this point less electronic system. 1973 .
But would like to stay with electronic stuff.
 
Turbotwist said:
Wow ,thank you internet .I was wondering what might be wrong with my power king 14/24 14 horse K321s not having spark when I just used it parked it.went to use it again and lost spark.it has this point less electronic system. 1973 .
But would like to stay with electronic stuff.
Click to expand...
The OEM Kohler breakerless ignition parts are extremely hard to find and buying used is a total crap shoot in the long run changing back to battery / points is the easiest and most reliable way to go
Here's a link to overnight solutions you can look it over and try calling Dale Culvert and ask about his solutions
 
MNGB said:
The OEM Kohler breakerless ignition parts are extremely hard to find and buying used is a total crap shoot in the long run changing back to battery / points is the easiest and most reliable way to go
Here's a link to overnight solutions you can look it over and try calling Dale Culvert and ask about his solutions
Click to expand...
Over on GTT a guy was looking for the same thing but unfortunately Overnight-Solutions is no longer making these kits. That was the reply back from them..
 
4getgto said:
You could be right. I kinda understood he's out of business.
Click to expand...
Ok guys I just called and talked to Dale from Over-night solutions, nice guy to visit with and he is in business making products its the Tecumseh Hett unit he's not building at the present he's having a hard time sourcing some of the components needed but he said he got some ideas and maybe working on it. As far as the SSI unit that mts above the flywheel he has those, and the Transdenders for replacing the condenser on the Kohlers he has then, said just made up 25 yesterday. I recommend calling him if you don't get a text or e mail reply
 
Last edited:
MNGB said:
Ok guys I just called and talked to Dale from Over-night solutions, nice guy to visit with and he is in business making products its the Tecumseh Hett unit he's not building at the present he's having a hard time sourcing some of the components needed but he said he got some ideas and maybe working on it. As far as the SSI unit that mts above the flywheel he has those, and the Transdenders for replacing the condenser on the Kohlers he has then, said just made up 25 yesterday. I recommend calling him if you don't get a text or e mail reply
Click to expand...
Good to hear...
Thanks for clearing up some confusion..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top