Working on the 89 PK 1620

MNGB

MNGB

Tractorologist
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My PK 1620 is a real nice tractor but it has about 1400 hrs on it and needs a few things repaired and updated, first off someone previously disabled the saftey switch's (all of them) I'm not a fan of the seat switch really like and want a PTO saftey switch and a neutral start, second the engine was using some oil and leaking making a big mess so I decided to make some repairs. I ran the engine with the air filter off and could put my finger over the crankcase breather and there was not any real blow out in fact there was as much sucshion as blow that told me there wasn't really any blow-by did a compression test and it was about 70 PSI on both cylinders so that's good both even (this engine has ACR), also the ignition module was acting up having weak spark on the left cylinder. So I removed the engine from the tractor removed all the cooling tins what a mess oil grass clippings everywhere, washed it down a couple of times did some scrapping and finally got it clean. Removed the PTO clutch and the flywheel to check the crank seals, could see that the PTO seal was not leaking but it had been previously replaced and was not square in the bore, looking at the flywheel seal it looked ok, but it was leaking so I ordered new seals and a new ignition module
 
The ignition module came and it didn't have end caps on it, was a bit disgusted but that gave me a good excuse to buy a spark plug end crimping tool and some ends, I made a set of seal installation tools for the crankshaft seals, and did a trail run on the old seals well I discovered the reason for the flywheel seals leak as I said these seals had been replaced prior and the flywheel seal it turns out had not been installed far enough in the outer lip of the seal was not up on the CS seal area was glad to figure that out. Installed the seals and the ignition module and all the cooling tins its starting to look like an engine again. theres a tin that fits over the exhaust manifold and closes up the front (on this installation) and there is a washer and a nut that goes on an extended exhaust stud that holds the tin in place went to put the RH one on and the nut wanted to cross thread turned it back and the darn thing let lose and sliped out of my fingers could not locate it anywhere on the engine ended up getting a new nut. Got the drive shaft installed and got ready to put the engine back in the tractor so far so good
 
Got the engine installation completed connected the wiring installed a new breather hose from the engine to the air cleaner, connect the fuel hose. Looked in the parts room and found I had a couple of LB05EZ NKG spark plug caps these are really nice caps they are bakelite and have a screw inside to grip the SP lead these are a resistor model, installed them, installed the battery squired some gas into the carb and cranked engine started up ran until the gas was gone did that a couple more times and it stayed running and it runs so nice, have run it about 20 minutes so far no leaks, will run it out this afternoon and drive it some more, one thing the darn neutralizer pedal switch quit working so had to jumper around it for now until I can find a replacement switch.
 
Ran the 1620 out and drove around at varying engine speeds then back into the shop to check it over no oil leaks found at or around the crankshaft, did find a very small amount of oil at the oil filter looks like it might be leaking at the filter base mount. And happy another good discovery I thought that the neutralizer / stop pedal had stopped working got under the tractor to check it out and found the switch to be working. Now for the rest of the story ever since I got the tractor the neutral pedal when depressed would not return full back previously I had been spraying lube on the area I thought was the problem but it never got much better so this time around when I was under the tractor looking I discovered the the pedal hinged on the brake shaft so I started soaking the hinge area with lots of spray lube and after a week it was lots better and by 2 weeks it was working as it was suppose to, well this afternoon when checking the saftey switch I discovered that the switch is not activated with the neutral pedal but instead the brake pedals connect the wires and sat on the seat and gave it a try (a couple of times) and it worked as it should OH happy day that pretty much does it for the 1620 this fall

HPIM1660.JPGHPIM1661.JPGHPIM1662.JPGHPIM1666.JPGHPIM1667.JPGHPIM1668.JPGHPIM2091.JPG
 

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The 1620 is done for now it started right up this morning run it a bit checked again only a tiny bit of oil by the oil filter base, so as to not be out done by Noel I did a little polishing with Armor all protectant looks good
 
Propane1 said:
Thanks for the pictures Gary. She’s a good lookin tractor. To bad about the Ariens’s

Noel
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Thanks Noel, I bought the Ariens for the hydros mostly but there are other parts I can use and to my surprise I found a push button safety switch same as used on the 1620,removed it cleaned it up spme and it works and better yet I found that its an Indak switch and found the PN for it in case I should need a new one. The one that I've removed the mangled seat pan has most of a 16 hp Kohler K341 in it I'm hoping it can be salvaged head is missing that's harder to find the carb fuel pump and other small parts I have, looked as best I can and don't see any holes in the block so we'll see
 
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