Loader Hydraulic Control Valve Leaking

chieffan

chieffan

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
Not sure what brand of control valve or even the loader it is on. Loader is on a compact Sato Bever so possibly a Johnson? Looks to be easy enough job by just pulling each control valve, cleaning it up good and putting new "O" ring on. Lube up with hydraulic oil and slide back together in the correct orientation. Anything I am missing I should know about?
 
From what I've been told there are no O-rings in those valves. I hope in your case I'm wrong. All that I've worked on were designed to be disposable. They are machined clearance fit with no O-rings.
Good luck.
 
Thanks Chris. From what I have found on the net your right, no "O" rings to replace. Guess when they start leaking they ae wore out..
Hear are some photos of mine, think it is an AL:CO branded valve.
SAM_2287.JPG SAM_2288.JPG

SAM_2289.JPG SAM_2290.JPG

Notice no swivel end at the control valve? Sure makes thing a lot harder to replace that control valve.
 
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chieffan said:
Thanks Chris. From what I have found on the net your right, no "O" rings to replace. Guess when they start leaking they ae wore out..
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Another example of never fix anything just throw it away and replace it. I can still remember when a town of any size had a repair shop where you could get things like toasters, TV's, fans and tools fixed. Not anymore. Our last real old hardware store closed int Watertown a few years ago and I still miss it.
 
We had great hardware stores and lumber yards in northeast Ohio. Then Home Depot and Lowes showed up and ran them all out of business. I'm guessing that was a good thing. No, not really. I miss those stores and the good people that worked in them.
 
The lumber yard carries a large selection of hardware. Had a True Value hardware store on the same block. I bought 90% of my hardware, paint, ect. there as the lumber yard makes it on the lumber materials. Hardware store started a restoration to bring it back to its near original building which was a funeral home, complete with pull rope elevator. It is now a mercantile store. Neat store but only hardware is the metric bolt & nuts they had left over.
 
That valve is not leaking much just yet so not going to worry about it. Will tie a big cloth under the mounting plate and use it. After buying a new battery for the Ranger S X S today can't afford it anyway. Quit holding a charge overnight. 6 years old. New one was just a tad over $200. Lasr one was over $150. Vehicle has a winch and does a lot of start/stop running so needs a bigger battery.
 
Wonder if someone makes a stop leak for hydro systems like the Lucas Oil automotive stop leak for power steering, engines and transmissions? It did help a differential pinion leak in the '55 and an axle seal leak in the '06 Denali. I think it is just basically a "thickener" but seems to be safe not to make oil too thick used at the correct ratios.

DAC
 
MFDAC said:
Wonder if someone makes a stop leak for hydro systems like the Lucas Oil automotive stop leak for power steering
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Several companies do including Lucas. In Rogers case it wouldn't work as there are no seals. My experience with the stuff working is yah kind of sorta. It won't compensate for bearing runout, seal grooves worn in shafts or cracked seals. If the seal or O-ring is getting stiff it will soften them up so they can do their job. Like any miracle in a bottle if the conditions are right it will work.

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Cvans said:
Several companies do including Lucas. In Rogers case it wouldn't work as there are no seals. My experience with the stuff working is yah kind of sorta. It won't compensate for bearing runout, seal grooves worn in shafts or cracked seals. If the seal or O-ring is getting stiff it will soften them up so they can do their job. Like any miracle in a bottle if the conditions are right it will work.

View attachment 92898
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I forgot fast as I read it that this valve has no seals. Engineered obsolescence sucks.

DAC
 
Been looking at several control valves on amazon. Most that state SAE for the port but do not specify the size of SAE. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 "" Etc. Without checking I am 90% sure my hoses are 3/8". When I buy one I want it to be the right one and not trial and error. Going down to check in few min. so I know.
 
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