Rotating a stuck engine

hamman

hamman

Tractorologist
Senior Member
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The D 14 Allis my son bought as a stuck motor. When I get healed up I want to start working on it for him later when he gets off the boat in September. We did not get a hand crank with it. I know there should be a place to see the flywheel and starter gear but i have not found it yet. Can any of you point me in the right direction for this. I know that I can rock it back and forth but I was hoping to find a spot to hand move it. I have put some PB Blaster and Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders hoping to help it free up.
As I said getting things ready to work on it when I heal up form the accident.
Thanks for any suggestions.
 
I would pull the rocker cover and check for stuck valves. You don't want to bend a pushrod when it starts turning over. Don't ask how I know this. I have had good luck with ATF/Acetone mixed 50/50. If you have access to a bore scope it wouldn't hurt to look inside to see how rusty it might be or which cylinder is the problem. Another option is to pull the pan and look up from the bottom for rust streaks and it will give you a good idea of the overall condition. Your headed the right direction getting penetrant in the cylinders to soak for several months. Good luck on the tractor and heal up soon.
 
hamman said:
The D 14 Allis my son bought as a stuck motor. When I get healed up I want to start working on it for him later when he gets off the boat in September. We did not get a hand crank with it. I know there should be a place to see the flywheel and starter gear but i have not found it yet. Can any of you point me in the right direction for this. I know that I can rock it back and forth but I was hoping to find a spot to hand move it. I have put some PB Blaster and Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders hoping to help it free up.
As I said getting things ready to work on it when I heal up form the accident.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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For really stuck rings to the cylinder walls, I use Seafoams' DEEP CREEP. There isn't anything else to soak the rust loose and not have large flakes scrapping the cylinder walls. The DEEP CREEP will help dissolve the larger chunks to a wet mush, saving the walls from having deep grooves.
It penetrates and lubes too. Hard to beat it with other products. On the Yanmar forum we have SAVED many engines with this product!

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I learned this from people who restore old classic cars found in the woods, barns, etc. The only way to save an engine!

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Been a long time since I worked on a D14 / D15 so going off my memory - I believe there is an inspection cover underneath the torque housing at the bottom just behind the engine (item 12) that can be removed to view the clutch and flywheel area from below as per the attached pdf parts breakdown. The foot clutch unit is dry if memory serves me correctly but everything behind that (hand clutch, pulley area, etc) is wet. Another option might be to remove the starter and get access through that hole - one bolt with a jam nut holds the starter nose in place under the fuel tank.
This video may be of interest to you if you choose to remove the starter -
There is a parts book available online at the Agco website (where I created the pdf of the torque housing) - not sure if this link will work for you or not - you may have to select a dealer first.
https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en/apbsearch?q=agcoallis/79001548/l&c=00-00&name=TABLE OF CONTENT
Hope this helps you.
Looks like the tractor has a Freeman loader on it from the pictures you posted - hope it has power steering. My dad got a D14 with a loader when I was about 12 with manual steering - big step up from the WD. He wanted to install power steering on it until he priced the parts and found out they would have tripled the value of the tractor so it remained manual steering as long as he owned it.
Here is a link to a service manual you may be able to download if you do not want to buy one - Allis Chalmers Models D14 D15 D17 Shop Manual | PDF
 

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Hey thanks. Big help. No power steering. As a soon as I can get out to actually do things I am going to check out tge inspection plate.
I have a toung (steel) from a old manure spreader that I am going to fab up to go from drawbar to drawbar to try to rock it with the Kubota. Probably another week before the ribs are healed enough to do much.
 
Depending on how long the tractor has been sitting there could be a mouse nest built in the foot clutch / flywheel area that could result in the engine appearing to be locked / seized - thwey can do a good job if they have been living in that area for a few years. Once had the bendix drive come loose and fly off the end of the starter shaft on a D15 - that jammed up against the engine flywheel up and resulted in the engine appearing to be locked up. Removed the starter and reinstalled the bendix drive (held on with one or two set screws if memory serves me) and the engine started up ok after the starter was reinstalled. Just a couple of things you could check in case the engine not turning over is not the result of something inside the actual engine causing the problem.
 
Old cars we just dumped whatever we had. ATF was the usual go to. Let it soak, then work it back and forth. Best to bore scope it and see what's going on. We had a couple motorcycles we had to take the head off and use a 2x4 and a sledge to beat the piston down....usually they are so far gone at that point you aren't really saving it..

Broken/Cracked ribs suck! Don't move, or breath, but really really don't cough, sneeze or laugh!
 
I read where on old guy who rebuilt old stationary engines took them out and put them in his stock dam and let them soak for awhile (meaning weeks) . He said they always came loose. Glad I don't drink that water!
Anyway his theory was that water stuck them let water loosen them up. There's probably more to this story but I don't remember it.
 
Cvans said:
I read where on old guy who rebuilt old stationary engines took them out and put them in his stock dam and let them soak for awhile (meaning weeks) . He said they always came loose. Glad I don't drink that water!
Anyway his theory was that water stuck them let water loosen them up. There's probably more to this story but I don't remember it.
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Head scratcher for sure but I remember too an older gentleman saying something similar many years ago.
At the time you thought it was wisdom now I know he just didn't have internet access.... Just the local bar.. ;)
 
29 Chev said:
Depending on how long the tractor has been sitting there could be a mouse nest built in the foot clutch / flywheel area that could result in the engine appearing to be locked / seized - thwey can do a good job if they have been living in that area for a few years. Once had the bendix drive come loose and fly off the end of the starter shaft on a D15 - that jammed up against the engine flywheel up and resulted in the engine appearing to be locked up. Removed the starter and reinstalled the bendix drive (held on with one or two set screws if memory serves me) and the engine started up ok after the starter was reinstalled. Just a couple of things you could check in case the engine not turning over is not the result of something inside the actual engine causing the problem.
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Thanks. I think we will investigate that also.
 
hamman said:
Thanks. I think we will investigate that also.
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The guy he bought it from said it had been sitting for about 3 years. Not sure. Brakes were not locked up and the trans shifts and moves freely. There is oil on the dipstick but it appears to have some water in it. There is antifreeze in the block or at least in the drain at the front of the block. As soon as I can get around I plan on checking all tis again and seeing what it may need in the way of fluids. Final drive hydro , etc.. Thanks
 
Roger, I would take the head off first. I would put chainsaw gas oil mix in the cylinders. Let soak a day or two. Then I would lightly tap the pistons with a block of wood and a hammer. And try turning the crank a little. And with the head off. Best time to check for stuck rockers and valves.
Just what I would do. Everybody has their own method.

Noel
 
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Propane1 said:
Roger, I would take the head off first. I would put chainsaw gas oil mix in the cylinders. Let soak a day or two. Then I would lightly tap the pistons with a block of wood and a hammer. And try turning the crank a little. And with the head off. Best time to check for stuck rockers and valves.
Just what I would do. Everybody has their own method.

Noel
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Thanks Noel. I have to get a hand crank some where it did not come with one. The PO said the kids lost it and he never used it due to the electric starter. Thanks I might just do that for him. I am going to get it in the garage before long to get it out of the weather.
 
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