‘41 Chev coupe

I am going to cut a couple holes on top of frame to remove the debris…then blow it out with air before rinsing interior of frame with rust treatment..the worst area at the left rear will be replaced completely,,which will be a bit tedious but i work cheap.
 
If you had one of those 2000W laser remove rust and junk from metal, the clean up time would be minimal for everything and the metal would look like new. Even those wood barnacles would be vaporized.

One of our Yanmar tractor owners bought a machine as a retirement income. Takes less than a few hours to do an entire vehicle.
A few jobs and the equipment is paid for. Here is his website. The laser even does antique furniture stripping without any chemicals or sanding, leaving behind the most wood possible.

See him clean a tractor!

SFX 2000W Fiber Laser Rust Removal Gun Laser Paint Coating Oil Fast Removal 220V Express Fast Shipping

It is super amazing how a laser can clean in the tightest and multi surfaces area where only chemicals were used prior.
Classic vehicle restoration is now a huge leg up.

 
When you remove the hidden rust, how much steel is left? I think you would be betytert off in the long run to build a new frame. The original is relatively straight without a lot of curves.
This is what we run into at work all the time. Not on vehicles but frame works for installations. By the time you blast it and beat scale off how much of the original metal is there?
 
This is what we run into at work all the time. Not on vehicles but frame works for installations. By the time you blast it and beat scale off how much of the original metal is there?
With laser, more of the metal is retained. It's only doing micron surface etching. And the etching is so fine, when you run your fingers over it, it's baby skin smooth.

I've done angle grinder wire discs, wire-wheels on drills, wire brushes, and there is always a chunk area of metal removed in a deep area.

It a laser finds a soft spot area of metal, then you know no other method other than replace and patch weld.
 
When you remove the hidden rust, how much steel is left? I think you would be betytert off in the long run to build a new frame. The original is relatively straight without a lot of curves.
Cut out steel till it’s all correct thickness. One pinhole is a 16” X 2” hole now. I’ll also remove some of bottom plate to reinforce any patches on side rail of frame
Bottom plate is riveted on. Picked up a little piece of scrap to start patching
 

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Finally finished the frame…only had a few ounces of epoxy primer so i thinned the heck out of it get a full coat….next id like to sand down the cab and get a coat of primer on..
 

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This is what we run into at work all the time. Not on vehicles but frame works for installations. By the time you blast it and beat scale off how much of the original metal is there?
I was worried about that with my project, just got my truck frame back from blast and prime and other than the cab mounts themselves and one gusset from bottom frame rail flange to the gas tank mount cross member that itself mounts to the top of the frame, I'm surprised at how solid it still is though it's only half the age of that Chevy.
How was the frame on the donor? Any better?
Would it have been worth it to take the whole thing home? I've seen where guys have replaced the whole rail with a donor from another before.
What power train are you planning?
 
I was worried about that with my project, just got my truck frame back from blast and prime and other than the cab mounts themselves and one gusset from bottom frame rail flange to the gas tank mount cross member that itself mounts to the top of the frame, I'm surprised at how solid it still is though it's only half the age of that Chevy.
How was the frame on the donor? Any better?
Would it have been worth it to take the whole thing home? I've seen where guys have replaced the whole rail with a donor from another before.
What power train are you planning?
Donor frame was junk,,,the car was had been housing raccoons for years,,i kept putting my foot through the floor while working inside cab. The rockers fell off while i was sitting on them. Also fell through the trunk floor while removing trunk lid hinges..

Power train will be whatever I can source cheap..possibly a chev 235 but ill also keep eye out for Toyota inline 6.
 
Donor frame was junk,,,the car was had been housing raccoons for years,,i kept putting my foot through the floor while working inside cab. The rockers fell off while i was sitting on them. Also fell through the trunk floor while removing trunk lid hinges..

Power train will be whatever I can source cheap..possibly a chev 235 but ill also keep eye out for Toyota inline 6.
Oh please don’t go Toyota lol
 
Finally finished the frame…only had a few ounces of epoxy primer so i thinned the heck out of it get a full coat….next id like to sand down the cab and get a coat of primer on..
At one time I had the motor mounts to fit a SBC onto that top hat frame. and crossmember for a turbo transmission, We did a couple that way, Then started using complete donor frames.
For a six banger I would do a Chevy 250, or a Ford 300.
But if I am spending your money, how about an LSX 454?:D:thumbs:
 
I have a 230 I-6 in the '55 GMC. Sure is a smooth quiet engine and goes down the road 65-70mph just fine. That is a smaller version of the Chevy 250. The Chevy truck 292 might be a good option too! Shouldn't be too tall for that car's hood.

DAC
 
My dad had several Plymouths he swore his slant six was the best engine he ever had. Growing up there was a 54 Corvette drag car called Apricot Brandy. He was one of only a few that ran a six. The class he ran most were running eights but he would beat them.
 
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