Been like that since new, they’re built like that.
‘04 Frame Rot
- Thread starter Cat385B
- Start date
It might just be the rubber mount is bad, not actually a rusted out cab or frame mount.
DAC
Well, round 2 I thought.
Nope.
I cleared out the garage to have another go at it. The frame rails look better, so I got more rust converter and was going to after the spots I missed.
Step 1, remove spare tire. The cable system for the spare finally gave up the ghost.
Step 1A, cut out the spare tire. Realize spare is flat.
Step 1B, fix flat spare. Bad valve stem. Used HF bead breaker with success, no spare stems on hand.
Step 1C, run to town.
Spare is now holding for 2 hours, should be okay.
Got a little converter slepped on the support rails of the box and the support tubes that connect the frame rails.
One of the spots that turned out decent from the last go around, right rear wheel well.
Now to figure out how to remount the spare. New cable system, allthread ready rod, use a wall anchor rod and bearing plate, or just wire it to the grill, old school style.
Nope.
I cleared out the garage to have another go at it. The frame rails look better, so I got more rust converter and was going to after the spots I missed.
Step 1, remove spare tire. The cable system for the spare finally gave up the ghost.
Step 1A, cut out the spare tire. Realize spare is flat.
Step 1B, fix flat spare. Bad valve stem. Used HF bead breaker with success, no spare stems on hand.
Step 1C, run to town.
Spare is now holding for 2 hours, should be okay.
Got a little converter slepped on the support rails of the box and the support tubes that connect the frame rails.
One of the spots that turned out decent from the last go around, right rear wheel well.
Now to figure out how to remount the spare. New cable system, allthread ready rod, use a wall anchor rod and bearing plate, or just wire it to the grill, old school style.
Used spAre wheel winches on EBay. I oil mine annually. Such a slick spAre holder and if maintained your spare will be there when you need it. Friend lost his spare when cable rotted off
even oiling once a year ended up not being enough. A replacement is more reasonable than I was expecting. $38.
Got the new spare ratchet in last weekend, and cleaned, sanded, primed and painted above and around it before I mounted the spare.
Tomorrow I need another hour or two underneath priming and then it’s ready for paint.
Rolling on a bed liner tomorrow, also. I plan on going down an inch on the side rails due to spots from when it used to have a topper in it.
Tomorrow I need another hour or two underneath priming and then it’s ready for paint.
Rolling on a bed liner tomorrow, also. I plan on going down an inch on the side rails due to spots from when it used to have a topper in it.
Did about half the painting on the underside today. Starting to look respectable again under there.
I also replaced the tailgate cables. They were almost done for.
As seen in this pic, I have the power extending towing mirrors. I had to take the driver’s side off again, it would not extend out. This time, cleaning and lubing didn’t work. It wants to go, but just clicks and grinds and hums. Replacement is $350-$400. Replaced with real towing mirrors with power fold and convex mirrors would be $5-$600.
Cheaper than one payment for a new truck, I guess.....
There are several styles, black, chrome, paint to match. Those above telescope out a few inches, manually. The function to make my mirrors extend would make those fold in like what’s on the new trucks. They have heated glass and turn signals built in, also. Still debating,
Every year I keep this one going is saving me from making payments on a new one. If I replaced this, the only thing I would change is to go to a regular cab long box.
I also replaced the tailgate cables. They were almost done for.
As seen in this pic, I have the power extending towing mirrors. I had to take the driver’s side off again, it would not extend out. This time, cleaning and lubing didn’t work. It wants to go, but just clicks and grinds and hums. Replacement is $350-$400. Replaced with real towing mirrors with power fold and convex mirrors would be $5-$600.
Cheaper than one payment for a new truck, I guess.....
There are several styles, black, chrome, paint to match. Those above telescope out a few inches, manually. The function to make my mirrors extend would make those fold in like what’s on the new trucks. They have heated glass and turn signals built in, also. Still debating,
Every year I keep this one going is saving me from making payments on a new one. If I replaced this, the only thing I would change is to go to a regular cab long box.
Had to help brother replace the rear brake line on his 2002 Chebby 1/2 ton just Friday. When he is here he's 2 hours from his home and he had a loaded 20 foot trailer on it at the time. 421,000 and never had a valve cover, timing cover, or oil pan off. He still says its going to 500,000 before he replaces it but that is starting to look very doubtful. Tranny went at 350,000 on the money and rear end about 365,000. 2 alternators, one starter and a fuel pump or two is all its needed. We had to remove the bed as the brake line was on top of the frame and with the fuel tank there it wasn't accessible. Of course I'd have removed each end and ran the new line wherever I could but he wanted it "factory". His has the tiny 4 point something V8. The guy at the local junkyard told him he'd give him a free engine if he ever needed it. Can't give that engine away but the 5.3 has a waiting list and big endless demand. His smokes some, knocks some, misses some. Has for quite some time, and still runs right down the road. If he needed to make a run to northeast Ohio or AridZona tomorrow he'd not think twice about taking it.
Mama might have dropped him on his head when he was a youngin'.
Mama might have dropped him on his head when he was a youngin'.
New shoes today. Falken Wildpeak A/T3 W’s.
I had highway tread tires on there before. I drive it so little, that I don’t mind a little noise and losing a 1/2-1 mpg. Went from from 245/75/16 to a 235/85/16. Little more bite in the snow. Since I changed size, I replaced all 5. When I replaced the originals at 58,000, I went to 285/75/16’s, but just the four on the pavement. Lucky I never had an issue.
The size change means my speedo is off by 2 mph at 70.
I had highway tread tires on there before. I drive it so little, that I don’t mind a little noise and losing a 1/2-1 mpg. Went from from 245/75/16 to a 235/85/16. Little more bite in the snow. Since I changed size, I replaced all 5. When I replaced the originals at 58,000, I went to 285/75/16’s, but just the four on the pavement. Lucky I never had an issue.
The size change means my speedo is off by 2 mph at 70.