Auction buys

esbbent

Tractorologist
Member
Yesterday I spent all day at a large consignment auction, there were 2 auction rings running most of the day. Quite a few items I was interested when higher than what I was willing to pay and some stuff went real cheap. I mainly was interested in MF7 they had which included mowing deck and snowblower. output_image1686484771744.jpg The tractor was all original, the front trim ring was fully intact. I do not know if it ran or not. It did have 3 of the 4 hub caps on the wheels. output_image1686484802678.jpg. It went for $300, I did not bring it home for that price.

I did end of with a pick up bed full of projects for $25. A walk behind JD 2 stage snow blower with tire chainsIMG_20230610_175449570_HDR.jpg. Also air operated grease gun with 5 gal grease bucket. A MF 1450 with no engine IMG_20230610_175455609_HDR.jpg and deck, but it does have the rear PTO attachment. I do not know what shape the belt drive sprockets are on the deck. I have not decided if I am going to part this tractor out or put and engine in it and getting it running. With the foot control hydro I am thinking or moving taking my loader off of my MF14 and installing on this 1450 if i can get it running. The last thing i picked up was a Montgomery wards walk behind mover. IMG_20230610_175507065_HDR.jpg This mover does not have a standard rope pull start, it has a fold over crank start on the B&S engineIMG_20230610_175512777_HDR.jpg. Todays fun will be unloading the truck.
 
Sounds like you came out good, Ted! Sure wish your pics were bigger though! Have you figured out what year your MF1450 is? Mine appears to be a '78.

DAC
I have not had a chance to look at the serial number yet.

I did notice today the drive shaft from the engine to the transmission snapped off just after the pulley for the rear PTO. The rear PTO top shaft has a bearing out probably has something to do with the driveshaft snapping. I was tinkering around with the engine on the snowblower. Needs new coil assembly for a no spark issue. The valves were leaking so they were cleaned and lapped. The air operated grease bucket does work just needs a grease fitting on the end of it.
 
DAC it is a 1979, serial 2512. According to tractordata.com, only 55 1450's were made after.
For 25 bucks you did great, Ted! Sounds like just the grease bucket was well worth that. I had to build a new driveshaft for mine. The one that was in it was a cobbled up mess and it would walk back and forth on the splines enough where it ground the front seal out of the transaxle. I never did find a good picture of an original driveshaft to try to replicate it. Just had to wing it with the help of the machinist at the job I retired from.
This one's serial number is 808.
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Good luck finding an engine and getting it running!

DAC
 
For 25 bucks you did great, Ted! Sounds like just the grease bucket was well worth that. I had to build a new driveshaft for mine. The one that was in it was a cobbled up mess and it would walk back and forth on the splines enough where it ground the front seal out of the transaxle. I never did find a good picture of an original driveshaft to try to replicate it. Just had to wing it with the help of the machinist at the job I retired from.
This one's serial number is 808.
View attachment 69804
Good luck finding an engine and getting it running!

DAC
I have an K321 on my bench to put in it. I just need to look the engine over, I can't remember if it ran or not. The drive shaft replacement is going to be the challenge. Just a little research I did online the 3/4" 11 spline shafting I could not find,. I could find the female couplers for the shaft. I may have to check with the local machine shop to see if he could help me out. It would be nice to have the rear pto working, I am thinking of mounting the hydraulic pump for the loader to the rear PTO. There are quite a few items I need to get freed up and moving, the clutch pedal is one.
 
Do you have the splined driveshaft hub that bolts to the flywheel, Ted? I bet that might be a hard item to find. All of the male splines on this one were worn, but useable. Did use new female couplers with a lovejoy joint.
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The bearing in the rear pto shaft at the right of this picture is bad, but since I have no implements for it I just took the belts off for now.

Hope the tractor has the engine mounts and your engine on the bench has the correct oil pan too. I could only find the thinner rubber motor mounts but fortunately the thick ones were still good. I had to hunt down a new oil pan as the one in the tractor had a big crack in it. Wasn't the correct engine block either, but that's another story I won't go into---LOL! Pretty sure the tractor had fallen off a moving trailer or out of a pickup box with all the damage it had. I was just glad it was mostly all there.

Sorry about being long winded, Ted, but it wasn't but a year or so ago I was going through all this.

DAC
 
DAC, I do not have the splined driveshaft hub that bolts to the flywheel. If I get time today I am going to try to get the complete drive shaft out of the tractor. I like how you did the rear drive shaft on yours. I did see Surplus center has the female splined love joy couplers for the pump. I will look to see if the engine mounts are there or not. The engine on the bench came out of one of my 14's, it has the wide flat oil pan where the bolt holes stick out farther on the side.
 
That's good you have the flywheel hub, Ted! I bet that can be kind of hard to find! Hope it pulls off of there for you.

This is the oil pan that worked with the motor mount plates on my 1450. Guess I never got a pic of the clean new one.
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Maybe you know all this already too, so don't be afraid to say so---LOL!

DAC
 
An Update- The only work done on the tractor has been trying to piece out the mower deck. It is not the easiest thing to take apart due to a ton of rust.
On the plus side the JD snowblower is back together and running. Installed a new ignition coil, pulled the head off the engine and cleaned up and lapped the valves. I still need to fix the small fuel line to the primer bulb and install new belts for the blower and drive wheels. It runs good and the drive works forward and back and ready for the time when snow flies.
 
An update on the Montgomery Ward push mower.IMG_20230611_102617157_HDR.jpg Before Blizzard 2024 hit I was looking for a small project to do in the garage this winter. I decided to bring the push mower from the storage unit to the garage to see what it would take to get it to run. Doing some checking on-line the mower is a 1965 Model, it is the same age I am. The engine was built in 1964, I checked the oil and it was full. It has a clear sight glass for checking the oil, I took it out to make sure there was oil. I found out B&S offered them as an option. I took the gas cap off the tank and the tank was dry with zero rust, looks brand new. I filled it with gas. I checked it for spark and it had good blue spark. I gave it a shot of carb cleaner and it fired right up and ran good. Once it warms back up outside I will change the oil, replace air filter foam, and sharpen the blade.
 
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