Try the method on this site: How to Adjust Oil Flow From a Stihl Farm Boss
I go for quite a bit of oil, in hardwoods it keeps you from burning the chain, in softwoods it helps keep the sap from gumming it all solid.
Best Chain saw brand
- Thread starter Cadman-iac
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I go for quite a bit of oil, in hardwoods it keeps you from burning the chain, in softwoods it helps keep the sap from gumming it all solid.
Yeah, the mesquite tree is an extremely hard wood, which is native to the southwest. We call it the fastest growing metal in the west. I've roasted a chain or two on my Poulan even with the good flow of oil it has.
I looked at that site for how to adjust the flow, but it doesn't include the model I have, the ms251. I'm going to check it out when I get out to the shop and be sure though. I would like to be able to turn it up some.
Thanks for the tip.
Now that's one I've not heard before.
On both of ours, the adjustment was on the bottom, about centered. Iirc
Stihl makes great chainsaws, for sure.
And although OP has already made their buying decision, I wanted to add Shindaiwa as a good brand also. I believe there's some 'Echo' connection, at least in the US.
My 10 year old Shindaiwa chainsaw was made in Japan, and has never missed a beat.
www.shindaiwa-usa.com
And although OP has already made their buying decision, I wanted to add Shindaiwa as a good brand also. I believe there's some 'Echo' connection, at least in the US.
My 10 year old Shindaiwa chainsaw was made in Japan, and has never missed a beat.
Chainsaws | Shindaiwa-USA.com
Well apparently they didn't make all of their saws with the adjustable oil flow, or it's well disguised on mine. I don't see anything that looks like an adjustment like they are describing.
I don't suppose you can take a picture of what exactly yours looks like?
I'll try to do that next week when I'm back up there
I appreciate that. I look forward to seeing what it's supposed to look like.
I searched the owners manual for information about it, but it's devoid of anything helpful. Just tells you how to fill it up with oil.
And you know how I feel about Ethanol gas. It sucks!
My Sthil is an MS 210C. Has never failed to start and cut wood. Just the right size for me!
When I was a kid my grandmother had a briggs powered push mower that had a self starting system on it. You pulled the recoil 2 or 3 times then pushed a button on top the blower housing and it would spin the motor. It actually worked really well..
she wasn't strong enough to pull the rope on a normal mower. She used that mower until she got cancer.
she wasn't strong enough to pull the rope on a normal mower. She used that mower until she got cancer.
The Big Mow 3 wheeled mowers used to have those crank starters on their Techumsjunk motors. It worked great if the motor started. If it didn't you could destroy your arm cranking those things up. Finally replaced them with recoils and end of problem.
They still exist as a brand, and can be found even at tractorsupply in the US, I believe. They're part of Husqvarna, and have been for ages. The Jonsered factory in Jonsered, Sweden closed in 1984.
(some info according to Wikipedia)
If you ever worked on a Stihl then you would know what it takes to adjust the oil on the home owner specials... that are all plastic now...
You will need to most likely pull the clutch off to get to it. As it is behind the clutch and driven directly off the crank. Most of the better ones have a screw like adjuster but on the littlest ones .... nope your going to need to dis-assemble the oil pump and drill it out. But be warned... it has been calibrated so it runs out of oil at the same time as the fuel...
Check the filter in the tank first to be sure something is not wrong with it.or the feed line . I have seen the line kinked and restricted the oil flow. Not sure how it got kinked but it was ,may have been installed that way?
I have seen more issues with Stihl burning up bars and chains than any other brand of saw brands I have worked on , and they were all smaller than the O44 sized models (70 cc) never saw it on a pro saw.
I won't touch a Homelite chainsaw! They are total junk! As are the older poulans and ALL CRAFTSMAN branded stuff! They are instantly denied service unless its to have the chain sharpened!
Every one that I have seen with running issues has been failure at or around the crank seals/bearings. Renders crankcase junk, throw it in the trash can please.
You will need to most likely pull the clutch off to get to it. As it is behind the clutch and driven directly off the crank. Most of the better ones have a screw like adjuster but on the littlest ones .... nope your going to need to dis-assemble the oil pump and drill it out. But be warned... it has been calibrated so it runs out of oil at the same time as the fuel...
Check the filter in the tank first to be sure something is not wrong with it.or the feed line . I have seen the line kinked and restricted the oil flow. Not sure how it got kinked but it was ,may have been installed that way?
I have seen more issues with Stihl burning up bars and chains than any other brand of saw brands I have worked on , and they were all smaller than the O44 sized models (70 cc) never saw it on a pro saw.
I won't touch a Homelite chainsaw! They are total junk! As are the older poulans and ALL CRAFTSMAN branded stuff! They are instantly denied service unless its to have the chain sharpened!
Every one that I have seen with running issues has been failure at or around the crank seals/bearings. Renders crankcase junk, throw it in the trash can please.
Many moons ago I had one of those big-box-store Poulan chainsaw specials for ~U$109.00.
It worked for the first few times, then fast became almost impossible to start, and almost impossible not to stall. Utter junk.
At least I learned through that experience (and others) that it's better for my state-of-mind to spend a little more upfront for such purchases in the future.
There's nothing more satisfying in using quality gear/tools/machines that just work frustration-free and without immediately braking!
I have no problem getting into the innards of my new chainsaw, except that it would void my warranty. If it wasn't for that, I would be drilling it out today. I've ran probably 6 tanks of fuel through it now, and I have noticed that the oil tank has been the same level as the fuel each time, so far that is. I've also just found some wear on the bar already right behind the sprocket on the bottom. Not sure if that's normal or a sign that it needs more oil.
The Poulan I have has been pretty good since I got it 9 years ago. It is a PP4218, so it's not a big one, but it did everything I needed one for.
I do have to admit that I replaced the carburetor on it a few years back, and the chain brake as well about a year ago, and it needs another one now. And there are a few other things that need to be replaced, the drive hub,the bar, the little metal shield that sits behind the bar to direct the oil to the right place, a new air filter.
But I admit that the Stihl is a much better saw after using it. If the cost of the repair parts wasn't so high, I would repair the Poulan just to have it as a spare for use on things that I wouldn't want to use the Stihl for. Like for cutting roots on trees that I'm trying to remove the stumps because of the dirt that gets into the chain. I don't want to ruin the chain and bar on the Stihl if I had a sacrificial saw for that.
I'm still contemplating if it's worth fixing the Poulan for this reason. And I still have 5 good chains for the Poulan, it would be a shame to let them go to waste.
Rick