Boat/Utility trailer beefup

Cat385B

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I bought a Shorelander boat trailer in 2008 and converted it into a utility trailer. My FIL worked for a power company, and they cut up old power poles and made dimensional lumber out of them. So I had access to southern yellow pine, full 2x, lumber for free. My neighbor had 9’ long aluminum ramps he was going to scrap. So this is what I ended up with, a 5&1/2’ x 9&1/2’ tilt deck trailer.
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When I bought my first SCUT, I brought home a Bolens (Iseki) G152 with a mower deck, snow blower, and tiller, grossly overloading my trailer and it’s 2,000 pound axle. Last fall I upgraded to a Massey GC1723e with a loader and a snowblower. This time I borrowed the neighbor’s trailer to haul it home, but it barely fit.

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So, it’s time for something different. Different trailer or change this one. After looking it over, I think the trailer frame is adequate for hauling 2,000 pounds, the axle is not. I also plan to add onto the deck in front of the tilting area.
New 3500 axle and springs:
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Old axle and springs:
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The old axle is 46” spring center, hub face is 55”. New axle is 60” hub to hub. I’m also going from slipper springs to double eye springs, so the axle is getting moved forward 4”.
I am limited on height for new, larger, tires. The ones on there are only rated for 1,200 pounds each. Tough to find 1500 lb + tire rim combo in 12”, I need to go 13 or 14”.
The axles available are all under slung mount for the springs. $100 and a 6 week wait for overslung. So I ordered the axle and bought new seat springs from Northern Tool.
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So by welding new spring seats on top of the axle and getting the springs on top, I went from 9” from axle center to underside of the trailer deck, to 16”. A 175/80/13 trailer tire/rim combo has 24” diameter. This should work.
Except.....
One spring seat isn’t in the same plane as the other. One spring is cocked forward of the other by almost an inch. Re-do.
Where’s the grinder?.....
 
This is the space that will get filled in with new decking as money permits.
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I have to figure out support and bracing. It will make the deck just over 12’ long.
 
Test run went well, no swaying. Bit more bouncing unloaded, though. Sometimes I run without putting a strap over my ramps, they are heavy enough I have never had an issue. Not anymore, not until I beef them up and they are heavier.
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Finally broke down and bit the bullet for new wheels and tires.
Replaced 4.80-12 set with 175-80/13’s.
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Trailer not sits almost 3” higher.
Lumber prices are still insane, no plans to redo and add on to the deck yet.
 
I still have to pick up steel. I want to add angle iron to cover the ends of the boards.
I also need to split the deck, the trailer is a tilt deck. Just short of 3’ from the spare, I need to cut the 2x12’s, and cap the ends with thin angle iron.
I hauled just over 2,500 pounds with it yesterday. Everything looked fine.
The new d-rings are in the 2x12’s, but I used a metal backing plate on the underside. (6x6”) The decking sits on and is secured to 4x6’s, so I also need to add angle iron to the area where the decking meets the 4x6 cross braces close to the d-rings, so load securement doesn’t pull up on the decking.
 
2&1/2” of clearance from deck to tire empty. 1&3/4” when I had a 2,500 pallet plopped right in front of the axle.
The long aluminum ramps are getting tossed, they are too weak for the Massey. The ramps were intended for use without tilting the deck. I will now just use the tilt, and build short steel ramps that store underneath.
I will add washers to the ball hitch, I’d like to get rid of the downward slant when hitched up. The taller tires threw it off.
 
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