carb solenoid

D

dodge trucker

Tractorologist
Member
I have a Briggs INTEK that I just want to rig up well enough, to hear run. I have it all bolted up, (went too easy, I'm waiting for the other shoe to fall, haha) But before I do all the Kohler to Briggs wiring conversion, I want to make sure I didn't get a dud, in buying this engine/ before I go any farther. .
Power to the starter is easy/ but in all the years I have been messing with these things, I have yet to have to have to deal with an engine with a carb solenoid. Well here it is.
Can I just run 12V to the white wire coming from solenoid and ground to block, to power the solenoid so it opens to admit gas into carb? or is that too much juice?? I don't want to release the smoke.
 
Im not sure if your are supposed to BUT.....I have put 12v to them on several occasions and havent burned any out....YET
 
I put an Intek in a cub a few years ago. Tapped in to a hot wire with the key on in start and run position for that solenoid. Used for a few months and sold it. No issues.
 
On my Cub with a Kohler Courage it shows 12 volts. I’m getting 12 volts but I think it’s going bad. They’re like $80. Some say on YouTube to remove the plunger rod and install a manual fuel shutoff and unplug the wire and tie it off.
 
Sawdust said:
On my Cub with a Kohler Courage it shows 12 volts. I’m getting 12 volts but I think it’s going bad. They’re like $80. Some say on YouTube to remove the plunger rod and install a manual fuel shutoff and unplug the wire and tie it off.
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Cheaper to buy a new carb w/solenoid!
 
I've heard people say to either find one of the same carbs only a version without the solenoid and rob the whole nut and put it in in place of the solenoid and I've also heard it said that you can unscrew the solenoid, cut off the sealing tip on the end of the solenoid and screw it back in. But since I usually mess with engines older than the idea of those particular solenoids on them, I can't say whether those options are viable or not.
 
If the solenoid doesnt work you can cut the tip off and not bother with a wire to it... but then you need to add a manual inline shut off valve, preferrably close to the carb.... and then you have to remember to use it or risk flooding the engine......... but if it does still work you might as well use it.
 
Only thing the solenoid does is shut gas off to the main jet, no shutoff valve is needed. The only reason it's there is because some soccer moms got scared because it backfired on shutdown. Yet another reason to let it idle for a minute or so to let that red hot exhaust valve to cool a little.
 
I always let and engine idle before shutting it down. Got the Mrs trained the same way. Sold a tractor once to a young guy that didn't know the shift pattern on a 1940 H Farmall ? ? Stopped and pulled the throttle wide open. OK so what is her trying to prove. Then he turned the key off. I chewed is butt up one side and down the other and told him to hand of the cash - no dealing or anything. He reluctantly did. I knew he was going to buy it anyway as he ahd new chains and binder in the back of his truck. I looke while he was driving the tractor around in the pasture.
 
I have to ask why the shutoff valve is needed? The main jet pulls gas up thru venturi effect therefore if the engine isn't running no gas goes up the main jet so I don't see how the absence of the solenoid plunger with perfectly functioning float needle and seat will flood the engine.
 
Key is "perfectly functioning needle and seat". I have fuel shut off on most all my tractors and do my best to remember to use them.
 
ol' stonebreaker said:
I have to ask why the shutoff valve is needed? The main jet pulls gas up thru venturi effect therefore if the engine isn't running no gas goes up the main jet so I don't see how the absence of the solenoid plunger with perfectly functioning float needle and seat will flood the engine.
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Every engine I have been around with that solenoid has flooded the crankcase if the solenoid fails to work as intended. Fuel overflows up the venturi into the engine.
 
chieffan said:
Like Kenny mentioned ; especially if/when the fuel level is higher than the top of the venture. Liquid will always seek its own level.
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With a good, functioning float needle and seat how does this happen? The top of the main jet is higher than the float bowl. I guess we can just agree to disagree. Like you said "liquid will always seek it's own level" and when the float needle and seat leaks it is seeking the level of the gas tank. I'll refer back to the Honda carb leak I recently fixed that filled the crankcase with gas.
 
ol' stonebreaker said:
With a good, functioning float needle and seat how does this happen? The top of the main jet is higher than the float bowl. I guess we can just agree to disagree. Like you said "liquid will always seek it's own level" and when the float needle and seat leaks it is seeking the level of the gas tank. I'll refer back to the Honda carb leak I recently fixed that filled the crankcase with gas.
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The ones i have had fail on me, the solenoid stayed in the open position. This allowed the fuel to seep up into the carb, thus draining the fuel into the crankcase.
 
Most of mine all have fuel shutoff valves. I’ve seen some of the plungers just pull out and some need the tip ground or clipped off.
 
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