carb solenoid

Wow, wondered a long way from "can I just run 12 volts to the white wire". Every carb solenoid I have ever messed with was supplied with 12V or maybe 13.5 if the charging system is working properly. The solenoid being hooked to the run side of the ignition switch.
When an engine is turned of it continues to turn and suck gas from the carb into the engine. There is no longer any spark ti ignite this fuel so it is then blown into the exhaust raw. If there is any thing suficiantly hot in the exhaust this causes a backfire, some times quite loud. I believe these were originally designed as a pollution control device to prevent the raw gas from being exhausted into the atmosphere.
If I were contemplating eliminating the solenoid due to the one I had being bad I would go ahead and remove the plunger. Then secure the carb in its operating position, Vice. screw it to a board/bench, on the engine with washers between it and the engine. Then hook up a gas tank with several feet of gas line for good head pressure and see if it passed gas through the carb.
Don
 
Engines operated forever without fuel solenoids. Idle it all the way down before shutting off typically prevented backfire happy engines.

I dont see how the solenoid not being there would drain the fuel tank. If it does the float/needle isn't doing its job.
 
secondtry said:
Wow, wondered a long way from "can I just run 12 volts to the white wire".
Don
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Lolol... well thats the norm around here isnt it... threads going off topic :p

I just think every engine should have a fuel shut off... if your going to disable it then a differant one should be installed.... especially if its a gravity feed system because if the float sticks then you will have a crankcase full of fuel.
 
KennyP said:
The ones i have had fail on me, the solenoid stayed in the open position. This allowed the fuel to seep up into the carb, thus draining the fuel into the crankcase.
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Then again, how could it unless it was getting past the needle and seat first? The needle and seat's whole job is to control/regulate the flow of fuel
 
Lance Skene said:
Lolol... well thats the norm around here isnt it... threads going off topic :p

I just think every engine should have a fuel shut off... if your going to disable it then a differant one should be installed.... especially if its a gravity feed system because if the float sticks then you will have a crankcase full of fuel.
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I agree with the fuel shut off I just don't think the carb solenoid has any thing to do with it as it is not a fuel shut off it simply closes the main jet. I use them on all my equipment to ensure that I can shut off the fuel and run the crappy gas out of the carb. The carb solenoid wont accomplish that. I haven't figured out how to install them on my chain saws yet so I have to dump the gas out of them then start them to run them dry.
Don
 
I've found with non ethanol gas I don't have to run the carb dry. Snowblower sits thru the warm months and starts right up in the fall, same with summer eqpt in the spring, even the 2 strokes.
 
I don’t drain anything. I start putting Seafoam in the gas before it gets cold and make sure things run long enough to get it circulated.
 
yep me too... seafoam and keep them all full of fuel... IMO running them dry actually causes many issues but there will always be some fuel left somewhere in the system and as it evaporates that causes things to get sticky.
 
I've done everything in that department to keep gas from going bad in equipment. The 2 cycle stuff I have better luck dumping out and running til they stall. 4 cycle stuff sometimes I do that, sometimes I do sta-bil, sometimes if it has a shutoff I close it and run the carb dry, I've left gas in them and started them periodically while in storage, seems like as long as they don't sit more than 1 season (3 months or so) I don't have a problem on 4 cycle stuff, the 2 cycle stuff is a nightmare if I don't dump them out and run them dry.
 
On my original question I did get this engine running, at first it would only run on the Gumout I sprayed into the intake.
I pulled the bowl and solenoid and the very tip of the casting where the solenoid screws into was gummed up but nowhere near as bad as some engines I have dealt with that have sat for an indeterminate amount of time. The (pilot jet?) That screws in from the side of the leg that the bowl screws to was the worst of it. I took that out and blew thru it with the Gumout and the air compressor and put it back in. Blew the inside of the bowl out with the Gumout and wiped the bowl clean then reinstalled, then it took off and ran on its own. And the solenoid does work, I got wired it straight off the battery, and when I unhooked it the engine died within about 15 seconds. I played with it while it was off the carb, by hooking it up while off, and watched it move, as I powered it up and disconnected it.
 
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