I'm not sure what that deck is? Itlooks like a rear discharge that someone converted into a side discharge and then blocked off?
Empty lift table
- Thread starter CRF6179
- Start date
No not really, I don't think anyone still makes a rear discharge GT deck other than the tow behind style.
The deck is side discharge. It appears to have always been that way. However the rear baffles under the deck could be easily removed. I don't think you would get as much lift from the blades and the cut would suffer. I had an 857 model Wheel Horse with rear discharge and it never cut as well as my Simplicity or Huskee.
That being said, my Elec-Trak is rear discharge. It has a rubbber flap running the width of the deck, and it mows quite well. Still not up to par with the Simplicity but it does a good job. Rick
Deer still offers one model that are rear discharge in a lawn tractor model. X350r.
That doesn't sound good
Okay. I got to town, and big brother warmed up his shop.
I was given an exhaust header that had the flanges I needed for the Briggs Vanguard twin. Someone had welded the header pipe to the cut off flanges. I couldn't use that size pipe and proceeded to remove the outside layer. I intended to increase the I.D. of a black pipe nipple and weld it to the flange stub and screw a muffler onto the other end. I started doing that and then decided to change horses in mid-stream. I don't know how m any times I looked at these 1/4" thick washers before it occurred to me to make my own flanges. I found a bushing that would fit the I.D. of the washer and the I.D. of the flange stub. That kept everything in alignment as I traced the outline of the stub. I drilled out the mounting holes (love those Drill Hog bits) verified they would mount correctly. And headed to big brothers'.
I was given an exhaust header that had the flanges I needed for the Briggs Vanguard twin. Someone had welded the header pipe to the cut off flanges. I couldn't use that size pipe and proceeded to remove the outside layer. I intended to increase the I.D. of a black pipe nipple and weld it to the flange stub and screw a muffler onto the other end. I started doing that and then decided to change horses in mid-stream. I don't know how m any times I looked at these 1/4" thick washers before it occurred to me to make my own flanges. I found a bushing that would fit the I.D. of the washer and the I.D. of the flange stub. That kept everything in alignment as I traced the outline of the stub. I drilled out the mounting holes (love those Drill Hog bits) verified they would mount correctly. And headed to big brothers'.
Attachments
After taking the wife out for lunch, I finally got to big brothers' shop and used the mill to remove excess material from the washers. I used the lathe to reduce the O.D. of the end of a 6" nipple and a 5 1/2" nipple. The 1/2 " difference is about what the offset is between the two cylinder heads. When the washers started looking like exhaust flanges I welded the black pipe to them. After getting back to my shop, I needed to grind a bit by each mounting hole to give clearance for the bolt heads. Then it was a matter of mounting the pipes and mufflers. No place around had the mufflers with 3/4" holes. I used the next size larger with 1" holes. I installed an adapter bushing and used conduit lock washers to secure it all. the larger mufflers are rated for 8 to18 H.P each. They work well for the 18 H.P. twin. I had to turn the PTO lever upside down for clearance on the rear pipe. I fired it up and it sounds good.
This unit will be coming off the table until the wife makes a seat back for it. I need to get another set of decals, and find a plow for the rear hitch.
Rick
This unit will be coming off the table until the wife makes a seat back for it. I need to get another set of decals, and find a plow for the rear hitch.
Rick
