Got the Case 222 into the shop

MNGB

MNGB

Tractorologist
Senior Member
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Got the Case 222 out from the storage area and into the shop this afternoon, need to do some engine work it starts and runs but when I engage the deck is bogs down and backfire thru the carb and spits oil out the breather lots of oil. just running around with no deck it runs good, anyway I thought maybe the valves needed setting or are bad, I had set the valves last summer but thought maybe I messed it up but no the setting are fine the intake valve really needs to be replaced and after getting the head off there was oil up on the piston so it need rings and I know it has a lot of blow by / crankcase pressure. So I have to decide should I just put new rings in or go further.
Noel have a question how hard is it to get the engine out of a Case?
 
MNGB said:
Got the Case 222 out from the storage area and into the shop this afternoon, need to do some engine work it starts and runs but when I engage the deck is bogs down and backfire thru the carb and spits oil out the breather lots of oil. just running around with no deck it runs good, anyway I thought maybe the valves needed setting or are bad, I had set the valves last summer but thought maybe I messed it up but no the setting are fine the intake valve really needs to be replaced and after getting the head off there was oil up on the piston so it need rings and I know it has a lot of blow by / crankcase pressure. So I have to decide should I just put new rings in or go further.
Noel have a question how hard is it to get the engine out of a Case?
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CRF6179 said:
try these. :p
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Always have to have a comedian around, huh Gary----LOL!

DAC
 
Rick has the ideas. Hehehe. I’ve never had one out Gary. But in your case, you have to either take the hoses of the pump and drain the hydraulic fluid out, to remove the pump. Should be two holes in the cover that the pump is bolted to, that cover then bolts to the engine. Under that cover is where the love joy coupling is. Love joy coupling should just slide apart if you unbolt the cover from the engine. Or, you have to undo the the coupling off the shaft of the pump. You get at the set screws thru the two holes on the cover.
Then undo the four bolts in the rubber mounts. Engine then has to go ahead and maybe the pump back a bit to get the love joy coupling apart. Maybe an inch of two. Once apart at the love joy, maybe mark both ends so it goes back the same way. Oil cooler could be in the way too to move engine ahead. So you may have to do some thing there.

Let me know how you get along.

Along with the troches and hammer, Rick mentioned, you may need some long pry bars. Hehe.

Noel
 
Noel has given you good info. I'll add a pic of my 224 with hood off to let you see what else is needed. Draining the hydraulics is probably best, done by removing a plug in the travel valve. You most likely will have to remove the hydraulic tank and cooler because of the PTO in front. Not a real simple job.
DSCN5565.JPG

Page 2 & 3 of this manual has the procedure for engine removal on a 224, 222 should be similar.
 

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Propane1 said:
I see. Do you have the engine out Gary ? Or just the head off

Noel
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Just the head off, been looking for 0.020 OS rebuild kit and finding nothing and I'm considering just putting it back together and selling needing an overhaul, it started and ran nice and drove around nice but put the deck on and it bogged down and the engine would die, I just feel like getting into that much if it were easier to get the engine I'd go ahead
 
KennyP said:
Noel has given you good info. I'll add a pic of my 224 with hood off to let you see what else is needed. Draining the hydraulics is probably best, done by removing a plug in the travel valve. You most likely will have to remove the hydraulic tank and cooler because of the PTO in front. Not a real simple job.
View attachment 51578

Page 2 & 3 of this manual has the procedure for engine removal on a 224, 222 should be similar.
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Thanks for the manual Kenny
 
MNGB said:
Just the head off, been looking for 0.020 OS rebuild kit and finding nothing and I'm considering just putting it back together and selling needing an overhaul, it started and ran nice and drove around nice but put the deck on and it bogged down and the engine would die, I just feel like getting into that much if it were easier to get the engine I'd go ahead
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Definitely takes the fun out of this older stuff when you have to look so hard to find repair parts . Some can't even be had anymore. Then to get it repaired just to have something else wear out next week.
Sometimes I wonder if we're not glutton for punishment..
 
Gooder news this afternoon, this morning I reinstalled the head, an old carb, spark plug and wire, tried starting it started right up seemed to run good went outside for a test drive went good in low range shifted the trans into high range same old thing it bogged and started to die shifted to neutral pulled throttle back to idle it caught up and ran gave it another try same thing went back into the shop time for morning coffee. Was thinking about what it could be when it bogged down it would backfire with flames out the carb so I was thinking it either the intake valve or timing the valve looked ok when I had the head off and adjusting the timing is easy so I pulled the points cover and checked the gap they were at 0.020" which is what is called for so I adjust them to a loose 0.018, tight 0.019" reinstalled everything, started it up and drove outside running good put it in High range and away we went ran good didn't miss a beat. The old carb is leaking so after my afternoon tea I,m going reistall the new carb I have and give it a test run
 
So. You changed the timing late. It would be about 18 to 19 degrees btdc. But, maybe the key in the flywheel is off just a bit. And that adjusted to where should be. But then, the valve timing could be off just a hair. But still works. Not a race engine. Hehe. Any way, it runs. That’s good Gary. Points on these engines can be set between .018 and .022. So I seen some where. .020 being the best setting, if every thing is brand new.
Need a few pictures of it, if have time.

Noel
 
MNGB said:
Gooder news this afternoon, this morning I reinstalled the head, an old carb, spark plug and wire, tried starting it started right up seemed to run good went outside for a test drive went good in low range shifted the trans into high range same old thing it bogged and started to die shifted to neutral pulled throttle back to idle it caught up and ran gave it another try same thing went back into the shop time for morning coffee. Was thinking about what it could be when it bogged down it would backfire with flames out the carb so I was thinking it either the intake valve or timing the valve looked ok when I had the head off and adjusting the timing is easy so I pulled the points cover and checked the gap they were at 0.020" which is what is called for so I adjust them to a loose 0.018, tight 0.019" reinstalled everything, started it up and drove outside running good put it in High range and away we went ran good didn't miss a beat. The old carb is leaking so after my afternoon tea I,m going reistall the new carb I have and give it a test run
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Sounds like you have it going your way!
 
MNGB said:
Measured the cylinder bore its worn 0.020" so its no wonder it smokes, the cylinder is nice no scratches or grooves just worn out smooth, makes me wonder how much wear is on the crankshaft
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Has it been bored out in the past? Does it have an o/s
piston now? The original k321 that came out of my new Holland came to me as a basket case, had been rebuilt with all standard parts previously and I'm sure not measured out or machined, just slapped together with standard sized parts.the guy I got it from complained it had been down on power and was a smoker.he hadn't had that tractor long before I traded him for a wore out cub 1250 I had.
I finished taking it apart and measured it all out, it took a 10 thou over bore and a 20 thou undersized rod to straighten things out. It's all good now but I haven't put it back in yet, the 12hp magnum that I put on while fixing the original engine is still doing a good job, but it now has to come out to fix a horrible oil leak.
Not sure if it will go back in once I fix the leaks or whether I'll put the original engine back in
I do have a 14hp magnum that is supposed to run but "tired" yet isn't all crusted with oil like tired engines tend to get. This machine would be a good "test bed" to try it out on. At least long enough for me to be able to mow with while I put crank seals on the 12 HP.
 
Dang, sorry you can't find parts, but I feel your pain, Gary. I had to scrap most of a HH120 that was in my MF12G for the same reason. No .020 pistons available back in 2015. May not be now. I re-powered the tractor.

DAC

I wrote the above last night and never pressed the "post reply" button---- again!

Good news you may be on to something with that points adjustment, Gary! Looking forward to how it keeps running!

DAC
 
Propane1 said:
So. You changed the timing late. It would be about 18 to 19 degrees btdc. But, maybe the key in the flywheel is off just a bit. And that adjusted to where should be. But then, the valve timing could be off just a hair. But still works. Not a race engine. Hehe. Any way, it runs. That’s good Gary. Points on these engines can be set between .018 and .022. So I seen some where. .020 being the best setting, if every thing is brand new.
Need a few pictures of it, if have time.

Noel
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Hi Noel on K series the fkywheel key 1/4{ X 1/4" steel and the ones with battery ignition it would have no effect on the timing as the points are actuated form the cam lobe so all timing is via the point gap, I'm thinking that maybe the these points (which look pretty new) maybe be off a thousands where the plunger contacts them that would cause the difference, its not unheard of that the point gap has to be reduced
 
Propane1 said:
Thats true Gary. But if you were trying to time it staticly or by a timing light on the flywheel with the key off a bit it, it would not be right. Is the points plunger free. If it was sticking that could cause trouble.

Noel
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Yep your right about the static timing I've never done that don't think of it most times and when I have couldn't find the marks do to crud build up yep points plunger is free as can be, there's another possibility if the plunger was replaced and it was a thousand's too long. Had it out and drove it this morning again its good except I can't get this aftermarket carb fine tuned as I'd like it so I opened the old one it was clean but the bowl gasket was bad and the splash baffle was missing replaced them and reinstall this afternoon. I have installed at least 10 aftermarket carbs never had a problem getting them tuned and the engine running good but this one just isn't quite right
Its been a long time since I drove a Case is high range boy they really scoot in high
 
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