I have been busy again making things and breaking things, life.
I'll share what I can so far.
If you have 3/4” front axles/spindles with sleeves/bushings for bearings, or the upgraded 1/2” wide ball bearings (as common with JD) and wanted to upgrade to the next level of wheel support, before replacing a front end completely, this might work for you. It’s also less than $40.
This is on a Husqvarna GT48DXLS (very modified already) but will work on any Husqvarna TS or similiar 3/4" axles. The type of wheels being used are very common on most brands of grass cutters, yard tractors and light GT’s, to include JD x300 and x500?. The tire diameter, width, and tread may be different but the wheel is common. The common 8”x5” wheel with 1-3/8” ID hub bore width.
The bushings seem to work well for grass cutting, but if you plan on putting your front end under a load with various accessories that attach to the front, ball bearings are a good upgrade, the JD part #AM127304 as an example will work fine on the Husqvarna, AYP, Craftsman, MTD, JD (has the 1/2" roller bearings already), brands that come with bushings on the 8”X5” (more specific 8”X5.38” with 1-3/8” ID wheel bore).
This is the next step up, without changing the front end;
Roller Bearings.
I decided to try roller bearings that are nearly 1” wide, doubling the bearing support. The ball bearing upgrade requires zero fabrication effort, simple and straight forward. This does require minor attention from a Dremel and cut off wheel.
This is something that my Dealer recommends to his commercial customers on their zero turns, but is the first on a GT for him and of course me.
I’m happy with how it turned out, as for longevity, we’ll see. I also want to point out that the bushings are not worn out yet, some wear, I just wanted to upgrade with the front maintenance, replace bushings, washers, clean, fresh grease, etc. It’s been nearly 100 hrs since this was last done fully, and all that time was using a JBJR.
Another use for a JBJR, front end lift!
The bearings are from Berliss Bearing Co, Livingston NJ.
# on the bearing FB-94816 NA
The package says Roller Cage Bearing #09-7869
The modification for fit was to the zerk fitting, on the inside of the hub, it needed to be carefully ground down flush with the inside wall of the wheel hub. This roller bearing is an 1/8” - longer than the stock bushings
I also used a Harbor Freight 12-ton shop press with an air powered press modification. The press is not necessary but is easier and has less risk involved.
I also pre-grease-packed the rollers and placed them in a zip lock bag, and put them in the freezer. I don’t think placing them in the freezer is necessary either, being that the parts for these little GT's are not that precise, but again it made the process very easy (little to no stress) on the parts.
Because the roller bearing shoulder support is wider than on the stock bushings, I had to cut off most of the metal dust cup on the spindle. The part that covers the inside wheel hub when mounted. I left an 1/8” lip to keep the strength of the piece. The wheel is still properly spaced and supported with the washers but is free to rotate.
I will have more to follow to accommodate all the pictures.
I'll share what I can so far.
If you have 3/4” front axles/spindles with sleeves/bushings for bearings, or the upgraded 1/2” wide ball bearings (as common with JD) and wanted to upgrade to the next level of wheel support, before replacing a front end completely, this might work for you. It’s also less than $40.
This is on a Husqvarna GT48DXLS (very modified already) but will work on any Husqvarna TS or similiar 3/4" axles. The type of wheels being used are very common on most brands of grass cutters, yard tractors and light GT’s, to include JD x300 and x500?. The tire diameter, width, and tread may be different but the wheel is common. The common 8”x5” wheel with 1-3/8” ID hub bore width.
The bushings seem to work well for grass cutting, but if you plan on putting your front end under a load with various accessories that attach to the front, ball bearings are a good upgrade, the JD part #AM127304 as an example will work fine on the Husqvarna, AYP, Craftsman, MTD, JD (has the 1/2" roller bearings already), brands that come with bushings on the 8”X5” (more specific 8”X5.38” with 1-3/8” ID wheel bore).
This is the next step up, without changing the front end;
Roller Bearings.
I decided to try roller bearings that are nearly 1” wide, doubling the bearing support. The ball bearing upgrade requires zero fabrication effort, simple and straight forward. This does require minor attention from a Dremel and cut off wheel.
This is something that my Dealer recommends to his commercial customers on their zero turns, but is the first on a GT for him and of course me.
I’m happy with how it turned out, as for longevity, we’ll see. I also want to point out that the bushings are not worn out yet, some wear, I just wanted to upgrade with the front maintenance, replace bushings, washers, clean, fresh grease, etc. It’s been nearly 100 hrs since this was last done fully, and all that time was using a JBJR.
Another use for a JBJR, front end lift!
The bearings are from Berliss Bearing Co, Livingston NJ.
# on the bearing FB-94816 NA
The package says Roller Cage Bearing #09-7869
The modification for fit was to the zerk fitting, on the inside of the hub, it needed to be carefully ground down flush with the inside wall of the wheel hub. This roller bearing is an 1/8” - longer than the stock bushings
I also used a Harbor Freight 12-ton shop press with an air powered press modification. The press is not necessary but is easier and has less risk involved.
I also pre-grease-packed the rollers and placed them in a zip lock bag, and put them in the freezer. I don’t think placing them in the freezer is necessary either, being that the parts for these little GT's are not that precise, but again it made the process very easy (little to no stress) on the parts.
Because the roller bearing shoulder support is wider than on the stock bushings, I had to cut off most of the metal dust cup on the spindle. The part that covers the inside wheel hub when mounted. I left an 1/8” lip to keep the strength of the piece. The wheel is still properly spaced and supported with the washers but is free to rotate.
I will have more to follow to accommodate all the pictures.
