Inexpensive Box Blades... Are They Worth It?

ol' stonebreaker said:
Since the main purpose of the box blade is to remove material from high spots and drop it in low spots and since you like add things on I'll suggest building and attaching 2 height adjustable casters behind the blade. This way you can use the float or power down positions without cutting too much at once.
Mike
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This is a good idea, I'm trying to remember where I saw this recently, but I'm already looking at this.

I like the float best, many seem to be pointing to this as most efficient.

I also tried an idea on here with one weight off center to have a twist in the draw bar to get a bit of an angled cut with just the blade (no box), I'm not sure what to think yet, I'll try it again. Ultimately, on getting a precise angle cut, I think some weight and a swivel at the draw bar is going to be the most reliable, with a reduction in draw bar length. The closer I can get the blade to the rear within reason, the more control I think can be gained, am I on the right track?
 
secondtry said:
Power down on a back blade removes weight from the back tires decreasing traction. Don
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This is logical. What I've noticed so far...

I power down and lose some initial traction for a moment, then when the blade grabs, I feel it pull down, and traction is quickly restored. I do have sand for ground and that might make a difference. Using it with power overall seems to be more trouble than its worth except if I had real adjustable scarifiers, maybe a quasi ripping?

I'm hearing a theme develop already.... Box blade with power...no, Box blade floating... yes. So far my tests are proving this out. This is the type of feedback that can save some real time by refocusing on fine tuning operation under float verses wasting time with power.
 
MH81 said:
Nice summary, thank you for taking the time to critique and compliment.

The newer style, I believe the thing that is going to give you fits the fastest is the scarifier bar.
You're probably just as far ahead to make your own and make it adjustable

One other upgrade to consider.
If using blade to contour ground, placing weight to one end will allow that edge to cut in faster.
If that is a use for this attachment, a pivot on the hitch may be useful.
If I was your ever going to do is flat, then it would be completely unnecessary.
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Thank You :)
 
I picked up a home made 3pt grader blade last year. It had the guide wheels in the back which got interesting learning to use. Most of my blade work is to build berms for water runoff so the wheels soon came off. I like to weight it as heavy as I can without losing my steering grip. Usually close to 200 pounds. Then as soon as I start losing traction I can lift it a little and regain it.
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Shorty said:
I picked up a home made 3pt grader blade last year. It had the guide wheels in the back which got interesting learning to use. Most of my blade work is to build berms for water runoff so the wheels soon came off. I like to weight it as heavy as I can without losing my steering grip. Usually close to 200 pounds. Then as soon as I start losing traction I can lift it a little and regain it.
View attachment 21010
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That's interesting, does it have the ability to tilt?
 
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