John Deere 110 Restoration

[JDroundfender]

Most of you know me as "Johndeereelfman" from the old site and even though it took me forever to join up here, I'm looking forward to catching up with you all again.

I started the restoration of a 1966 John Deere 110H this past Spring for a friend of mine who basically tore the tractor apart a few years ago, realized how much is involved with restoring one of these machines, and then decided it was more than what he wanted to take on. Needless to say, all of the parts and pieces were dropped off in my yard and I was asked to do the work and finish it.

 

[JDroundfender]

I started with the frame. My friend had the frame sandblasted and then applied a coat of primer and finish to it before he quit. With not filled in any of the deep rust pits and not having a good base for me to start with, I stripped the frame completely and started over. I first started building up the paint for the rust pits by filling them in with heavy coats of paint. I don't use Bondo auto body putty as eventually in time, the stuff starts to peel.

 

[JDroundfender]

Once I was satisfied with having the rust pits filled in with paint and everything being on an even playing field, I laid down two more even coats of primer and started sanding with 320 grit wet sandpaper. After my base was smooth and cured for a couple of days, I started laying down some finish coats. First was a light thin coat, second was a bit heavier. The frame was left to sit out in the hot sun for two days to cure. On the third day, the frame was then wet sanded with 400 grit paper, wiped down with rubbing alcohol, and then two more coats of finish were applied.

 

[JDroundfender]

At the same time as the frame was being prepped, I started working on getting the motor ready. My friend had the motor rebuilt and since it wasn't reinstalled or run since getting it back, I didn't have to spend anytime taking it apart or going through it. I removed all of the remaining tin work and the carb, and after taping off the head, valve cover opening, and carb flange, I was ready to start painting. First was to lay down a good coat of hi-temp heat paint. I don't use normal automotive primer here, as it doesn't hold up to high temperature heat and causes the finish coat to either discolor or blister. Hi-temp heat paint is a good base paint to start with and my finish coat will cover it well.

 

[Shorty]

Hey, this is a guy I don't see too often. How have you been?

 

[JDroundfender]

The next day, I wet sanded the frame again but this time with 800 grit paper. Again, after being wet sanded, it was wiped down with rubbing alcohol and another two coats applied. The shine isn't quite there yet but it's coming.

 

[JDroundfender]

Hey, this is a guy I don't see too often. How have you been?

Doing good Eric. Been very busy but things are finally starting to slow down a bit.

 

[JDroundfender]

Well back to the motor. After a few days of letting the hi-temp paint to cure, I started applying the finish coats. The motor will only get two good coats without any wet sanding. I like my motors to shine a little but not as much as the rest of the tractor.

 

[JDroundfender]

The starter/generator hasn't been rebuilt as far as we know so it needs to be disassembled and gone over.

 

[JDroundfender]

The frame was wet sanded again, this time with 1000 grit. Again it was then wiped down with rubbing alcohol and an additional two more coats of finish applied.

 

[JDroundfender]

My friend painted the transmission with two coats of paint however it wasn't very good. Again I decided to strip it and start over. While stripping the paint I quickly found that my friend never stripped the original factory paint so needless to say, I had my work cut out for me. After getting all of the factory paint stripped I found the brake hub and one axle seal were starting to leak so this transmission will be split and all seals and gaskets will be replaced. I ordered a new kit however I won't split it apart until everything is in. I won't order new bearings until I have a chance to inspect all internals. Until I'm ready, a coat of primer will keep things from rusting.

 

[JDroundfender]

Engine drive sheave, starter/generator housing, and starter/generator mounting bracket all stripped and first coated with primer.

 

[JDroundfender]

Back to the frame once again. Wet sanded with 1500 this time. Wiped again with rubbing alcohol and the last two coats of finish applied.

 

[CRF6179]

Glad to have you back!

 

[MFDAC]

Cool thread, thanks for coming here to take us along on your resto!

DAC

 

[jabelman]

Nice to see a restoration again on the site. Looks great

 

[JDroundfender]

Frame after five coats of clear.






Next and final step will be to wet sand with 2000 grit, polish, wax and buff.

 

[JDroundfender]

Next, I started working on the fenders and dash pedestal. Again my friend started painting but didn't fill any rust pits so I stripped everything down to the bare metal. Then two coats of primer were applied. After a day of drying, each piece was then wet sanded with 320 grit and the pitted areas were given two additional heavy coats of primer.

 

[JDroundfender]

While waiting on the fenders, I primed and painted some other miscellaneous parts.

 

[JDroundfender]

Finally applying finish coats to the fenders after getting the primer built up enough to fill the rust pits. I first wet sanded everything with 400 grit and then layed down two coats of finish. I will let these set for a couple of days before wet sanding and applying additional coats.