Limits of a Massey Ferguson 1655/1855

MacWorld

MacWorld

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
Lately I noticed that my tractor's hood was not aligning properly on the tractor, especially the hole for the gas tank filler that was too much forward (or the tank was too much backward). I started observing if the hood was bent or the tank moved but all those were fine. Then I found my problem...

Lately I've been removing a lot of ice in my driveway, it's starting to thaw and I get huge water puddle near the road. I wanted to get my 4 drains in the corners of my driveway where it meets the road clear, I only managed to keep one of them clear this winter. I used the 54" JD blade on my quick hitch for this and sometimes I was quite a bit abusive with it, I removed some big chunks that were up to 10cm/4" thick, lets say it takes quite a bit of momentum to remove those.

Also I had to move the tractor to a friend's place to free his trailer from the snow with the snowblower.. the trailer I had in hand to carry the tractor was not long enough and I had to move it with the blower "hanging" on the tractor (facing backward in the trailer). At one point on the road I hit a ditch in the road which is fine for a car but not for my tractor and it (trailer and tractor) jumped quite a lot... in fact the trailer detached from my car because the coupler was worn out... No damage to anything, I was lucky on that and now the trailer has a new coupler.

I don't know what was the worse, the ice ripping or the jump on the road but I discovered that the tractor's frame is now bent ):

Today I am going to a friend's garage and he owns a small loader which I plan on using with a bottle jack as a press. I will place my frame on wood and push from the loader's rear counterweight down on my frame to get it back straight... At least that's my plan, we'll see how it goes.

Yesterday after work I stripped down my tractor. Took me a bit under 2 hours to get the frame stripped down and in my car.

IMG_8354.jpgIMG_8355.jpg

At this point without the steering "A-frame" I was able to get a good look at the "damages". It bent exactly where the frame gets wider for the engine, that is really a weak point for this frame.
IMG_8356.jpg

"And we got separation of the rear end after 1 hour and 47 minutes after the start of the tear down"
IMG_8357.jpgIMG_8358.jpg

IMG_8359.jpg

I can tell that "uncompressed", a tractor uses a lot of space!

For next year I will look into adding a "frame" that will join from low on the front hitch to the rear axle where the 3 points hitch is attached to the tractor. This should prevent "torque" from going through the tractor's frame when I am not reasonable.
 
Years ago when I built a cobbled up snow plow, my Dad insisted that I run a subframe to the rear hitch. His idea was to avoid the twisting in the middle. I did it that way even though I wasn't convinced it was needed. It sounds like your experience is proving his foresight.
 
Loaders are attached to the rear axle with u bolts in the same fashion but still be careful as they're cast iron & only bolted on lol
 
Well it got straight quite easily, installed it under an alignement lift with a Westfalia on top, preloaded one side of the frame with a jack until lifting the lift itself then I hit the square tubing with a medium sledge hammer. Repeated until straight then proceeded with the other side. Now it's back to being completely straight!

For the "subframe" I will probably make, I'll look if I can attach it on the same pin as where the 3 points hitch attaches to the rear axle. It will probably not be the single point at the rear but at least the counterweight's moment of inertia would be transferred straight to the front hitch. First I'll have to reassemble the tractor and by having it teared apart this way I will probably fix worn parts on my way.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8364.jpg
    IMG_8364.jpg
    216 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_8365.jpg
    IMG_8365.jpg
    169 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_8366.jpg
    IMG_8366.jpg
    196.6 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_8367.jpg
    IMG_8367.jpg
    213.8 KB · Views: 18
You know that bent area is week and will be more susceptible to bending again. Nice to get it straight again just the same. Maybe time to think about a heavier tractor - or a dozer, if you bend them up like that?
 
MacWorld said:
I don't think I need something heavier, it's quite the right size for my needs but I need to respect it's limits and not abuse it :)
Click to expand...
I'd say it was all done when you went over the bump. That blower is heavy enough as dead weight but when it's hanging over like that the fulcrum point makes it MUCH heavier. It would be like using a 4' pipe wrench with a cheater bar on it lol. As to attaching to the ears of the three point, be careful as they can break off easily. I'd personally use U bolts around the axle tubes, keeping them as close to the transaxle as you can.
 
Looks like the Snapper built frame to me... those are all weak because the frame rails are just flatbar, with many heavy GTs the frame rails are either a C channel or at least an angle iron, I wouldnt even fix that frame if it were mine.
 
Lance Skene said:
Looks like the Snapper built frame to me... those are all weak because the frame rails are just flatbar, with many heavy GTs the frame rails are either a C channel or at least an angle iron, I wouldnt even fix that frame if it were mine.
Click to expand...


Snapper did build most if the 1655/1855 for Massey.
 
Ive had a couple of the MF branded ones before and there is a Snapper 1650 here right now, they are nice enough tractors when they are in good condition but those frames are a weak link.
 
I have never seen a Bolens tube frame bent from use yet. May be some out there but I really doubt it. Mounting castings would break off first.
 
The only Bolens tube Ive had was an 800 but any tube frame has a certain amount of flex so its rare to see any permanent damage to them, Jacobsen used tube frames all thru the 70s and Ive had several of those but never saw a bent one. Even the flatbar frames are pretty good but once you start adding a fel and/or alot of ballast its easy to bend flatbar.
 
Indeed this spot of the frame is a weak point in the tractor's conception when imposing it such loads as I did. That is not going to stop me.

Overall my tractor is in great shape (except the tires that needs replacement). It was always stored inside, never spend any time outside except for doing work. I've rebuilt most of it and improved some parts (added a trust bearing in the transaxle being one of them), I added front hydraulics, made the front hitch for JD's accessories, made the custom front PTO slowdown etc. Given all this time and effort it's not worth to move to another tractor. Again, this situation is a direct result of my actions, I did what this tractor is not made to do!

I also have a sentimental value to it, the previous owner was the father of a friend and I always prefer owning stuff that I know the previous owners. Coincidently, the previous owner looks A LOT like @Lance Skene's profile picture!

Also as I stated I don't really need a bigger one, I would like to own a Honda 6522 but it would be more out of passion than for an actual need. I also really enjoy the single rocker pedal for the hydrostatic transmission of the 1655/1855. Oh and I am starting to know how every part is made.

The deformation resulted in quite a lot of miss-alignment (as seen in my picture with the level) but when looking at how the metal deformed, it wasn't so bad. The 4" x 1/4" flat bar (the frame) twisted on itself in the bends resulting in minimal movement in the metal. I don't think it will be weaker than it was previously, the deformation wasn't enough. It will still be a weak point in the frame but not noticeably weaker.

If I ever have the same problem again I will think about welding reinforcement to this part of the frame but with a subframe that I will probably make the problem will be solved.

Most, if not all, of my involvement with tractors is out of passion and/or curiosity. I could easily pay someone to mow my lawn and someone to clear my driveway but I want to do it my self. I want to be stubborn on THIS particular tractor, I love to make the projects and find solutions to the problems I encounter, I like to discuss on the forums as we are doing here, share my projects for other's entertainment, digging information everywhere, learning about hydraulics and all other stuff. I even enjoyed finding a way to straighten the frame without having access to a huge hydraulic press. I even like trying to improve this tractor without cutting/drilling any original part.

It is not completely a rational decision to do all of this. I enjoy it, that's all.

BTW now that the frame is straight I started cleaning the front axle which I never rebuilt and I will see if something needs to be fixed. Seems to be a bit of slop in one of the pivot for an axle (the vertical pivot) and one end of one of the steering arm was not bolted correctly and overtime it enlarged the hole, creating a lot of slop in the steering. Obviously I will fix this. The re-assembly will begin soon
 
Last edited:
You really should look for a replacement frame, as a metal fabricator by trade for over 30 years I can tell you without any doubt that that frame is now seriously compromised... if you were to get it xray'd you would see it now has many hairline fractures. It might still be ok for mowing the grass but it will bend again and possibly even break so now it has become a safety issue.
 
I agree with Lance. There is a right and wrong way to safely bend metal to keep it's integrity. Once it is bent the wrong way, which yours was, and then bent back again that area of bending is weekened. No two ways about it. Time for light duty only work for that tractor. You had your fun with it, now is the time to move on to something heavier built and get away fro the safety issue.
 
Well seems I am the stubborn one that will get himself into one of those situations:
A- I won't push the tractor this far anymore and nothing will happen. Unlikely scenario I would say.
B- I will build a subframe and it will avoid the issue. Quite probable.
C- I will completely avoid all those situations by building myself a belly grader and will not carry the tractor again in a trailer without supporting the snowblower
D- I'll bend the frame again and I'll make a new one (copy) from scratch
E- A combination of the scenarios B, C and D

I'll keep you updated, for now I will reassemble it and keep thinking about how to make a subframe as it seems to provide a good balance of ease, fun and overall strength.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top