MF 1450

[MFDAC]

Goop is a better choice.
Just my 1 cents worth.

I never heard of Goop, (besides the hand cleaner) Noel but am familiar with Loctite products. We used a similar product to the Loctite these guys are recommending at work for these kinds of repairs but can't remember the name.

With nothing to loose I'd take a file to the crank and knock off the high spots. Get a new key and some of this
View attachment 98570
"Product Description
These retaining compounds have a thick consistency for filling gaps in loose-fitting metal parts. They are often used to repair a press fit assembly or reinforce the seating of mechanical components, avoiding the need to remachine parts.
and reassemble everything."
I've used this stuff in electric motor housings that have spun bearings and it has worked flawlessly. I agree though, Put it back together and run it.

I ordered some, Chris. Thanks for the pic and number. Called around locally to places like NAPA and Whistler Bearing and both places had to order it. I just as well order it rather than them. Saves about 10 bucks a tube.

Did I miss something about why the loss of compression occurred?

Good stuff! Have a tube in my little HF toolbox!

View attachment 98571

I should have explained that better, guys! That's why it turned over so nicely with the head off. I had to grab the electric clutch hub to stop the engine rotation, but with compression it would lock it up and let the flywheel spin on the crank.

By the way, Daniel, This flywheel is held on by a 3/8" fine bolt not a nut. Probably part of the problem! Your installation procedure would have helped I bet!

Since the engine has ACR, don’t you have to somehow bypass that to do a compression test? Just putting a tester on and cranking it would show no or low compression, wouldn’t it?

Generally you wi;; get about 60 PSI on a good engine with ACR, I'm with Chris try the loctite 660, I'll say the reason for no compression was because when canking only the flywheel was turning and not the crankshaft

Gary nailed it on 2 accounts. Even with ACR, an engine should get some compression. Then he explained what I should have about the lack of compression. Thanks for the comment, Gary!

I'm a little slow as that never occurred to my brainfarting mind!

I don't think it occurred to many of us!

This goes back to my poor explanation of what I had found out. Not a brainfart on your guy's part!

The starter still sounded like it had drag on it but must have been the friction between crank and flywheel. Obviously it was a lot of friction looking at the damage!


Was in town a good bit of the day but got home and moved the boat anchor to the welding table and shoved the tractor outside.


Had rolled the engine over to the table and figured that I'm still man enough to lift it up there and block it up. Nope not man enough anymore. I lifted it but it also felt like things were going to get hurt in my back worse than it already is! Sat it back down in a hurry.

Got out the cherry picker and set it up with one leg down. Both legs wouldn't have fit under the table with all the heavy junk I have stashed under there. It was very stable thankfully!


After I got it in place, it dawned on me I couldn't put the flywheel on unless I used shorter blocking. Didn't have any so had to cut some.




That was pretty easy to swing the long blocks off one side, then put in the short ones.

Checked my box of HF woodruff keys and nothing correct. Will have to run around town with the pieces and see what I can find I suppose. OddS are any place I go to will have to order it! I might try to do a search myself.

So, if the 660 stuff is used. Can the flywheel be takin off if needed. ??

I'm not sure, but if it holds it won't matter, Noel. The stuff on this engine that is good can be pulled off and put on another. I bet with some heat and a puller I could get the stator off to save it if I want to. Got to remember this flywheel is what drives the hydro. It is not the correct engine for this tractor either so it is all a big "Hail Mary" just to see if it can get put back in operating condition. I'm guessing that whatever tractor this engine came out of probably didn't drive a hydro off the flywheel.

DAC

 

[olcowhand]

I think if one put a light coat of paint inside the flywheel it would allow flywheel to be pulled free from the crank of needed. The Loctite is really to fill gaps, not to bond parts together.

 

[MFDAC]

I think if one put a light coat of paint inside the flywheel it would allow flywheel to be pulled free from the crank of needed. The Loctite is really to fill gaps, not to bond parts together.

In this case, Daniel, wouldn't I want the flywheel to bond to the crank some, since it is what drives the hydro?

DAC

 

[Cvans]

wouldn't I want the flywheel to bond to the crank some, since it is what drives the hydro?

You are correct. If it were me I'd make sure that both surfaces are clean and not apply paint in this instance as your keyway has been compromised. Grade 8 bolt might be a good investment for holding the flywheel on.

 

[JDJake]

Two other ideas, smooth out the crank and flywheel and fill in the gouges with Devcon Titanium Putty. The Army used it on the reconditioned deuce and a half and five ton trucks to mount the Centeralized Tire Inflation System backer rings onto the axles. This stuff is strong, we had to use mini sledgehammers to break them loose. Another option is to smooth both and then make a thin slotted collar to fit between the two to fill in the gap, just depends on the amount of material is removed.

 

[CRF6179]

Doug, Thanks for posting a picture of your workbench.
Makes me feel better about mine,

 

[olcowhand]

In this case, Daniel, wouldn't I want the flywheel to bond to the crank some, since it is what drives the hydro?

DAC

If it were me, yes I'd want them bonded together. I only mentioned painting if easier removal was concerning.

 

[olcowhand]

Doug, Thanks for posting a picture of your workbench.
Makes me feel better about mine,

Rick, his bench is pristine compared to mine!!

 

[MFDAC]

Doug, Thanks for posting a picture of your workbench.
Makes me feel better about mine,

Rick, his bench is pristine compared to mine!!

That's not a workbench. It's my welding table! You don't want to see pics of workbenches!

Two other ideas, smooth out the crank and flywheel and fill in the gouges with Devcon Titanium Putty. The Army used it on the reconditioned deuce and a half and five ton trucks to mount the Centeralized Tire Inflation System backer rings onto the axles. This stuff is strong, we had to use mini sledgehammers to break them loose. Another option is to smooth both and then make a thin slotted collar to fit between the two to fill in the gap, just depends on the amount of material is removed.

I already ordered the Loctite 660. I remembered the name of the stuff we used at work that would cure hard enough to grind on or even tap some threads into long as high torque wasn't required. Belzona is the name.

I doubt I am talented enough to cut a cone shaped shim for a tapered shaft if I was to smooth those surfaces anyway, Jake.

I think the "tooth" of the rough surface may help the Loctite grip a bit better. Will do like Chris suggested and file off high spots and get it clean with brake cleaner and compressed air.

The key ways in the flywheel and crank are surprisingly tight and square still. The key never hammered back and forth in the slot. Looks like it is a 3/16"x1" woodruff key. Tractor supply has some. I have to fill the propane tank in the motorhome tomorrow. Probably will dump the tanks out at the Truckstop near TS and swing in and grab a couple.

Going to be in Spearfish, SD Friday and Saturday nights this weekend so I better have enough propane for the furnace, just in case!

DAC

 

[TAHOE]

At least you have a workbench, mine is a portable car table I have to take down as soon as I'm done so wife can get in carport.

 

[MFDAC]

I'm afraid I'm using a card table too, Marty, to have tools near me so I don't have to get up as much and my back likes to sit as much as possible while working on stuff.

Got to Tractor Supply and picked up 3 woodruff keys. Just as well have a couple extras.


Seems to fit nice and tight.




While there, they had a sale on RV antifreeze, 2 gallons for 5 bucks. I picked up 4.

I don't know if that is a good deal in other parts of the country but it is here. If I was loading tires, I would sure use this over windshield washer fluid. Considerably cheaper.

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

The Loctite 660 got here Friday, but we were gone until this afternoon. Hopefully will get the flywheel installed tomorrow afternoon when I get home after a doc appt.

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

Got the flywheel installed this afternoon. Hopefully will assemble the rest tomorrow. I don't want to mess with it until the Loctite is cured. Of course, there is a very slight rub of the flywheel to the aluminum plate behind it. Hopefully it will "clearance itself". The starter isn't rubbing and should work fine.

Knocked down the high spots with 3 different files.



Cleaned everything up with carb cleaner and blew things off.




The flywheel still needed shavings cleaned off the magnets, so I used some rare earth magnets to pick up them up. Figured the only way to get them off was a stronger magnet.


I had used the neon file in between the flat and round to deburr the keyways, then put in the key. Still a very tight fit there.


Didn't get any pics of smearing the 660 on the shaft and inside the flywheel but one tube was enough. Put blue Loctite on the bolt and used Daniel's method to tighten, and whack the flywheel. I used a 1-1/2" socket that cleared the washer. Specs said 27 ft. lbs but I went to 40. Tractor Supply only had course thread grade 8 bolts so this is still the same bolt.


I had already wiped off the excess in the above pic.

Guess I will run 'er till she breaks again. Maybe I will run across a more correct engine at some point. I am sure in my mind that the original engine probably used the nut to hold the flywheel that gets torqued twice as tight as the wimpy little bolt. It just doesn't look like a good setup to drive a hydro to me.

DAC

 

[MFDAC]

Made some progress today. Got the engine off the welding table with the cherry picker.


Then moved it where I could get the electric hoist hooked to it.


Got the cherry picker folded up and out of the way. Cleaned the old head gasket and sprayed it with copper coat.


Set the engine down on a steel milk crate and pulled the fuel pump to make a block off plate. Definitely want to do gravity feed if this thing will run again. Made sure I had a new gasket first. Put some black RTV on the gasket and put on the plate.


I'm sure you guys know this but if you use a little Vaseline in the cap of the RTV tube you don't have to dig set up silicone out to get to fresh stuff. Probably been a year since that tube had been opened the last time. I use this molykote grease since I have a tube of it but Vaseline works fine.


Put the blower housing and flywheel screen on and repaired a couple of bad wires. Then it was time to drop the engine back in the tractor. Rolled it in and added an engine.




Got the motor mounts pinned and hooked up the driveshaft. Gooped some of that molykote on the splines since I had it out. Was easier than getting out the grease gun---LOL!

Took the lifting chains off and cleaned the block and head to torque it down.


Went over it 3 times, added 5lbs since I had to use an extension.


My back said that was enough so that was enough! Might try to fire it up tomorrow.

DAC

 

[CRF6179]

 

[olcowhand]

Sure hoping it runs great! And, I did NOT know the Vaseline trick....THANK YOU!!

 

[4getgto]

You know Doug you said you originally weren't going to work it right away.....
Now you're almost done. Bet you're glad....
Yea I didn't know the Vaseline trick either..going to try it next time..

 

[MFDAC]

View attachment 99140

Sure hoping it runs great! And, I did NOT know the Vaseline trick....THANK YOU!!

You know Doug you said you originally weren't going to work it right away.....
Now you're almost done. Bet you're glad....
Yea I didn't know the Vaseline trick either..going to try it next time..

Thanks for the replies, guys! Your welcome on the Vaseline thing. That Molykote I used is basically an industrial grade of Vaseline. Parts man at my former job threw that almost full tube in the garbage and I took it back out.

Yeah Bill I originally said it will have to wait, but should have added, if I had to spend a pile of money. Didn't consider cobbling it back together at first.

Re routed the fuel line for gravity flow and found that behind the throttle rod from the governor had plenty of room with the air filter housing in place.


Good news and bad news. It fired right up and idled beautifully. Probably better than it ever has.

Tried to rev it up and it would buck and die trying to go much faster than idle. Adjusted on the carb and no real difference. No backfires, just running very rough past a little faster than idle. It still moves well and I drove it. Just can't quite make it to half throttle before it has a fit.

Maybe the key is shearing again. Kind of acts like it did when it was happening. Think I got a bad tube of Loctite 660 also. Found the stick I used to apply it and it is not cured hard.


Well it is outside. I have to get back on those slot cars and then I better bring in the GT5000 and see what I bent in it to knock the deck out of level. It does a better job chopping leaves than the MF12G.

There is another tractor project that will be happening as @JDJake sent me a tiller mule drive for the JD110 along with new belts for it. Now I guess it's not gonna get sold!








Thanks, Jake!

The '55 GMC will probably come in first and get some stuff done on it, then oil changes and service to the Denali and the motor home has to happen before the snow flies.

Hope the 1450 will run long enough to haul the tiller from around behind the shop!

DAC

 

[esbbent]

Retorque the head after you fire it up and run it awhile. Lately on the Kohlers I will let them get real warm shut them down retorque and then fire them up and do same thing. I have had head bolts need another 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the 2nd retorgue.

 

[MFDAC]

Retorque the head after you fire it up and run it awhile. Lately on the Kohlers I will let them get real warm shut them down retorque and then fire them up and do same thing. I have had head bolts need another 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the 2nd retorgue.

I did do that Ted. Just once though. It is going to be put on the back burner again I'm afraid.

DAC