nother carb question

dodge trucker

Tractorologist
Member
I've had a few carbs lately, that were beyond hope of the Berryman dip and/or ultrasonic. mostly Tecumseh ones, a couple of newer Briggs ones though, too. I honestly don't exert much effort on non adjustable versions, though. When I get an adjustable version though, I do all I can to try and keep it alive. The problem I have most commonly run into pertains to the idle circuit, nothing I have done to the last couple, have seemed to have loosened all the crap.
Or, have loosened the grunge/ but since I cant access those confined areas, not able to get the crap out. I'm talking about the places sealed by BB's, one such area is right next to and parallel to the main nozzle tube casting on tecumseh carbs.. There is supposed to be an "idle emulsion pin" or tube" beneath that. On some carbs that can be heard rattling (a good thing) when you shake an otherwise completely disassembled carb next to your ear. Ive seen a post somewhere (don't remember where, I think it was a place like Tulsa Engine Warehouse or Jack's small Engines) that if this cant be heard, the carb is junk.
Is there a way to pop these sealing BBs out and access these passages, so that the carb can "really" be cleaned completely? And how would someone go about resealing these BB-sealed holes? Ive seen these plugs on other makes of carbs as well..... I know someone that has a mill, so I think I can get them out OK.
but is there any way that works short of access to such machine tooling, or replacement? I have tried a couple of Chinese carbs, my experience with them so far is no better than that of a carb that fights me on a rebuild.....
 
I have used several china knock off carbs on small engines like weed eaters & chain saws with goods luck. Have one on a 500cc Polaris side by side and it at least runs decent. $100 to put a kit in the original carb and it would not even start. China knock off was $35. Had to rest the float 3 times to get it low enough to stop the overflow/flooding issue.
 
Back
Top