Project farm does a lot of stuff
Seafoam vs MMO
- Thread starter Lily'sDad
- Start date
Kenny you beat me to that clarification.
I was never a additive guy up until about 15 years back. I learned about Seafoam from old farmers and old bikers.
I now always keep Seafoam around and swear by it.
I have filled the tank up on a motorcycle that sat all winter but I started it periodically and let it run until the tank was empty by spring. That bike had ran great when I put it away for the winter and I was amazed that it ran even better come spring.
I have done the same thing with my throuroghly gummed and carbonized up model 19 cast iron Briggs that was in my 1960 Simplicity 700. I filled it up and ran a tank thru it over a couple of weeks. It ran amazingly better after that tank of fuel.
Something to note is the directions on the the can are for normal maintainance.
When you are trying to clean a system up over concentrate.
Instead of the 1 once to a gallon I run about 4 onces.
I also run Marvel Mystery oil for its upper end lubricating ability.
I use Seafoam and Marvel Mystery oil in the tractors,motorcycles,and the trucks and SUVs.
I mix a little Marvel Mystery oil and Seafoam in about every tank of gas for my tractors and motorcyles.
In the winter or when they are going to set for long periods I also add Stabil Marine or Storage to the mix.
In the trucks and SUVs I also use Lucas oil treatment and if automatic I also use Lucas transmission conditioner in the trans.
I have had no I'll effects from these additives but have seen positives.
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You are dumping naphtha and alcohol in your gas...
About the same thing that's in stabil and dry gas.
So it would work as a fuel stabilizer. It would hell remove water from gas.
About the same thing that's in stabil and dry gas.
So it would work as a fuel stabilizer. It would hell remove water from gas.
The oil splashed onto the lower cylinder walls is mostly removed by the oil rings as the piston travels downward. Upper cylinder lube is drawn into the cylinder through the intake valves with the fuel as the piston is travels down. When the rings loose their ability to wipe the oil off of the cylinders is when you start burning oil.
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I use them both. I use MMO in both gas & oil. The Seafoam in the fuel only towards winter.
When I first rebuilt my MTD990 it smoked bad on start ups for a few minutes. Once I added MMO a few times in the gas it stopped & never did it again.
The only thing I disagree with MMO suggests using a whole quart in the place of oil in your high mileage vehicle. I think that stuff is too thin to do that.
When I first rebuilt my MTD990 it smoked bad on start ups for a few minutes. Once I added MMO a few times in the gas it stopped & never did it again.
The only thing I disagree with MMO suggests using a whole quart in the place of oil in your high mileage vehicle. I think that stuff is too thin to do that.
I knew a guy who would substitute 1 quart of AT fluid in his cars engine.
Agreed, I did try some MMO in an engine that reportedly carbons up the rings, but have no idea if it did anything.
It was only in there for 100 miles before an oil change. I didn't notice any change in the oil consumption.
As for adding to fuel, one of the last jobs I had was to help with injection problems on units using Yanmar Tier 4 diesel engines.
These use the high pressure Bosch system that many other engines use; Ford, GM, VW and others.
One of the problems was deposts forming on/near the ports/nozzles in the injectors, caused by contaminants in the fuels.
Once the deposts formed, new injectors were needed. $$'s
I've never liked adding to what companies spend millions or even billions to get the chemistry right.
This experience re-enforced this belief.
Dan
It was only in there for 100 miles before an oil change. I didn't notice any change in the oil consumption.
As for adding to fuel, one of the last jobs I had was to help with injection problems on units using Yanmar Tier 4 diesel engines.
These use the high pressure Bosch system that many other engines use; Ford, GM, VW and others.
One of the problems was deposts forming on/near the ports/nozzles in the injectors, caused by contaminants in the fuels.
Once the deposts formed, new injectors were needed. $$'s
I've never liked adding to what companies spend millions or even billions to get the chemistry right.
This experience re-enforced this belief.
Dan
I know it's an old thread, but new people like me tend to browse things so I figured I'd add my own thoughts and experience.
Between work and home I maintain 5 outboard engines from 6-175 hp, ages from 1972-2015, 2 and 4 stroke. I'm not a certified outboard mechanic but I've worked on them for 25 years. I'd guess an honest 90% of issues can be traced back to fuel issues.
For my personal outboards, I've always added seafoam and sta-bil, and regularly changed the factory fuel filter since mine are trailered until I started working at a lake and got to see a lot of outboard issues.
I'm not allowed to work on the public's stuff, but we keep 2 boats in the water from ice out to ice in, and I've got it down to where I don't have to cringe when I turn the key, lol. I don't have the option of running ethenol free gas, cheapest bidder gets our business (groan).
If I don't keep the tanks full, I get condensation in the tanks, but if the boats sit in the water long enough, I get phase separation, hard thing to combat. I added dual water separators to both boats, and I use a combination of seafoam and marine sta-bil 360. Every spring when I pull the boats out of storage, I change the two fuel/water separator filters, the factory fuel filter, and siphon off the bottom fuel from the tank, and I've not had an issue since.
It may seem like overkill, but when you're the one who is responsible for rescuing people on the lake in emergencies, it's just plain smart in my book.
Back to my engines. After learning what I have at work, I decided to add one fuel/water separator to my boat for added protection, I figured that was overkill since I run pure gas, change the factory filter regularly, and run the seafoam/sta-bil mix. I was surprised to see that I actually get water in it, not much mind you, but the engine was still having to eat it. Since I added it, it doesn't "buck and sneeze" anymore, which I attributed to being a 40 year old 2 stroke, 3 carbed engine.
I'm not 100% sure if my mixture does much, but I am 100% sure that with the mixture and fuel water separator, I've had no fuel related issues and I'll take that peace of mind.
Between work and home I maintain 5 outboard engines from 6-175 hp, ages from 1972-2015, 2 and 4 stroke. I'm not a certified outboard mechanic but I've worked on them for 25 years. I'd guess an honest 90% of issues can be traced back to fuel issues.
For my personal outboards, I've always added seafoam and sta-bil, and regularly changed the factory fuel filter since mine are trailered until I started working at a lake and got to see a lot of outboard issues.
I'm not allowed to work on the public's stuff, but we keep 2 boats in the water from ice out to ice in, and I've got it down to where I don't have to cringe when I turn the key, lol. I don't have the option of running ethenol free gas, cheapest bidder gets our business (groan).
If I don't keep the tanks full, I get condensation in the tanks, but if the boats sit in the water long enough, I get phase separation, hard thing to combat. I added dual water separators to both boats, and I use a combination of seafoam and marine sta-bil 360. Every spring when I pull the boats out of storage, I change the two fuel/water separator filters, the factory fuel filter, and siphon off the bottom fuel from the tank, and I've not had an issue since.
It may seem like overkill, but when you're the one who is responsible for rescuing people on the lake in emergencies, it's just plain smart in my book.
Back to my engines. After learning what I have at work, I decided to add one fuel/water separator to my boat for added protection, I figured that was overkill since I run pure gas, change the factory filter regularly, and run the seafoam/sta-bil mix. I was surprised to see that I actually get water in it, not much mind you, but the engine was still having to eat it. Since I added it, it doesn't "buck and sneeze" anymore, which I attributed to being a 40 year old 2 stroke, 3 carbed engine.
I'm not 100% sure if my mixture does much, but I am 100% sure that with the mixture and fuel water separator, I've had no fuel related issues and I'll take that peace of mind.
Good post and personally I think your right. The only thing I would add is to run the fuel out of the engine before storing the boat for more than 30 days.
A diesel mechanic explained to me yrs ago why keeping water away from injectors is so important. With it's greater surface tension one small drop of water forced thru an injector will blow the tip right off.
Mike
Mike
Had a check engine light on the 95 Camry, code said EGR valve. I priced a new one $$$. Bought a can of Sea foam and added it to a full tank of gas. Made a 100 mile + trip and the light went off, and has stayed off. This was about 9 months ago and it hasn't been one sense.
Only thing I've had a negative experience with is I added seafoam to the crankcase on my Tundra before an oil change, it must've loosened up some stuff and plugged up the oil pressure gauge sending unit, it never worked after that. It did have 175k on it at the time and might be a coincidence.
I didn't think Seafoam was for the oil pan, only a gas additive! MMO is for both!
I think it's 1/3 of the can for the fuel, 1/3 for the crankcase, and a 1/3 for the intake. One oz. Per quart of oil a few hundred miles before an oil change to break up sludge.
Just looked at their website...1.5 oz. Per quart of oil 100-300 miles before an oil change.
Just looked at their website...1.5 oz. Per quart of oil 100-300 miles before an oil change.