Started a engine repair/replace project today

MNGB

MNGB

Tractorologist
Member
Hi, I di some trading with my brother this summer traded a Tecumseh OH160 for a Simplicity 3416H its a 72 model with a hydro and a B&S cast iron 16hp 7 years ago I put a good used engine it it for him and it was gtood until about a year ago it wouldn't start no compression> So when I got it in the shop I pulled the head off thinking maybe a stuck valve but it turn out to be a benrt exhaust valve. I have a good running starter/gen B&S 16 hp so have been trying to decide should I install a good valve or install the other engine well today I decided to change out the engine so got started today got the bad one out. Ran into a bit of a problem the bad engine has a dipstick / oil fill set up the good engine has the typical B&S screw cap fill oil level check normally this would not be a problem but this Simplicity install has the engine sitting doen in a hole so I'll have to see if it will fit in and be able to add and check oil

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That is similar to what Alice started as (AC 716).
 
Well this morning I tried a test fit of the replacement engine with some minor mods it will fit have to cut a hole in the left frame for the oil filler to fit in them looks to be a go, trying to decide if I should try cutting a hole with a hole saw or go quick and dirty with the torch
 
They used a torch on Alice's frame so the opposed twin would fit. I cleaned that all up then ran a bead on the two parts to add some strength back.
 
Its now plan "B" tried fitting the engine in the frame I removed the oil fill tube sot would sit down in the engine area but its tight I could cut out an area for the filler tube but it would be just miserable to drain the oil to add oil and to check oil so I'm going to repair the engine I pulled out got the bent valve out and found a good used valve so its to grind it to length for valve clearance and install it guess I should have done this before removing the engine but I had a plan o_O
 
yeah I have run into that before on engine swaps too many times to count.... last was 13hp Tec OHV to 13hp Tec OHV... one a "Legend", the other an "enduro".. for one thing the exhaust came out the block in different locations.... and the linkage was quite different and for some reason I couldn't just swap them, dont remember why now.... but I usually get tripped up on crank PTO diameter or length or keyway/no keyway, wide base block vs narrow base ("gotta fit... both are 12hp Kohler", but no.) Ive had to put the crank out of the "old" engine into the "new" one, or take teh crank from the "new" one to a machine shop to get the PTO end cut down, or other modifications to match the original configuration before....
probably gonna get bit again here soon. I have a tiller with a 6hp Tec on it that runs but is tired.... I have an 8hp Briggs sitting in the shed that looks like it "should go right on there" but probably won't. I am getting a shed full of engines but none I have seems to fit the hole I planned for them, when I got them
 
Here is a stock engine in a 3416H that I have setting in my garage waiting on an engine change. As you can see the oil fill/dip stick clears the frame. It also uses the SG and not direct starter.

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SimplyRad said:
Here is a stock engine in a 3416H that I have setting in my garage waiting on an engine change. As you can see the oil fill/dip stick clears the frame. It also uses the SG and not direct starter.

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Hi yes this 3416 originally had a starter/gen engine, I replaced it with a geared starter engine and now was going to go back to a starter/gen engine theproblem I ran into was as you can see the oil filler is mount in the bloack the engine I have its mounted in the oil pan so its now back to reinstalling the engine I just pulled out, will get the exhaust valve in this afternoon and reassemble the engine
 
Got the replacement valve installed, was having a time getting the keepers in place finally took the valve out to check over discovered the replacement valve is a little different than the original the keepers were different so got the right ones and they installed and work got the head reinstalled along with the carb and ignition coil so next week should get it back in the tractor. Its suppose to warm up next week so I have some fall yard work to do that will most likely take up much of the week
 
Set the engine back in the frame so I could roll it around, got pretty warm here yesterday and I got a lot of fall work done mowed around the hangars for the last time harvested the squash just have to pick up the pumpkins today and shuttle some tractors around and attach the 3pt sprayer to spray weeds in the next couple of days
 
Well I got the engine in and all the bolts installed including the driveshaft rewired it yesterday (well partially enough to crank the engine) serviced the engine with oil before I forgot and tried to start it check and have spark starter works so I squirted some gas down the carb nothing tried a couple of times nothing it was quitting time and I was a bit disgusted. This morning I did a compression check it was good so poured some gas in the SP hole installed the plug and cranked it ran for about 10 sec so I tried again squirting gas into the carb and it started and ran as long as I squirted gas to there's hope. Hooked up a temp gas tank could get any gas thur the carb so removed it and split it was really nice and clean inside but the needle was stuck so tight I had to use a small needle nose pliers to get it out but it looks ok and will reassemble the carb and test it before reinstalling on the engine
Little surprise this morning also the ground was white per the weather guesser's it wasn't suppose to be this far south in MN oh well it is what it is
 
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MNGB said:
No I mean bent/warped when you turn it you can see the side to side movement Chris it was running lean my brother is a good mechanic and generally takes good care of his machines but the lawn mower don't get full attention the air filter was so clogged that I'm sure that's what caused it to run lean
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I'm trying to get my head around how a clogged air filter can make an engine run lean.
 
ol' stonebreaker said:
I'm trying to get my head around how a clogged air filter can make an engine run lean.
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Thinking about now your right it should have been running rich, it looked like it was lean from the pattern at the exhaust valve it was not black like a rich condition would indicate it was very light brown color I don't know the valve is bent replacement is working
 
It starts and runs was running it checking things over and noticed an oil leak, it was leaking from the valve tappet/breather cover and its behind the intake manifold, but removing the muffle and the crack case breather tube I was able to get at the screws to remove it discovered I screwed up and hadn't gotten all the old gasket off the engine, cleaned that up and reinstalled breather assy started the engine no leaks ran the engine 10-15 minutes was looking good shut it off was securing the gas tank and noticed after it was sitting not running there was a slight weeping of oil so I removed the breather agian and am making a new gasket I had made a new one before but I'm thinking it was to thin of material so I'm using thicker material for the new gasket we'll see tomorrow. Just the same it starts good and runs good
 
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