the golden one out today, david bradley suburban

jabelman

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
it's been awhile since I had this one out, again another big thanks to "CRF" rick for helping out with the front rims, just added them on with the front ags, it's a mean looking machine.
 

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Very nice looking DB I have one similar but I didn't get the hood and the engine had been changed to a B&S model 14 so the hood won't fit and got lost before I got the machine they are fun tractor to mess around with
 
That is a sweet old machine. Blue rims aren't doing it any favors but it is still a cool old machine.
 
Any one of us, except those currently on vacation.
 
I got the two side pully’s off, exposed the clutch plate between them, I just can’t seem to get it to adjust properly. The YouTube video I watched stated that there should be 11 ball bearings at the throw out area, mine has no ball bearings, should I just buy some and stick them in there?
 
I got the two side pully’s off, exposed the clutch plate between them, I just can’t seem to get it to adjust properly. The YouTube video I watched stated that there should be 11 ball bearings at the throw out area, mine has no ball bearings, should I just buy some and stick them in there?
Yes the ball bearing are needed its been so long since I did mine but I kind of remember that maybe a bicycle bearing ball are the right size, I found the document in my DB files but can't get it to upload the autor says he used a bearing from a kids 10" bicycle
 

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Ok here is the information I have figured out the a copy and paste works

So I dissembled the clutch left the throwout bearing on the shaft and fork and took a pic and removed the old race and bearings ..... find an old kids bike like a 10 inch (something small) remove the crank bearings and one of the thread on races the race needs to be cut right at the lip so it will fit into the old bearing housing .... it will be really loose on the shaft cause the shaft is way smaller than the I.D. of the race .... then take the bearings from the bike and remove them from the carrier they are in and use them as single bearings they are bigger but will work fine ... use alot of grease to hold the bearings in place slide the new modified race on and reassemble the clutch ...... I just did mine less than a week ago and it works better than stock it give you more clutch movement and engages tighter ....... my name is Billy and if you got any other questions call me any time if you need (805)915-7450
 
Ok here is the information I have figured out the a copy and paste works

So I dissembled the clutch left the throwout bearing on the shaft and fork and took a pic and removed the old race and bearings ..... find an old kids bike like a 10 inch (something small) remove the crank bearings and one of the thread on races the race needs to be cut right at the lip so it will fit into the old bearing housing .... it will be really loose on the shaft cause the shaft is way smaller than the I.D. of the race .... then take the bearings from the bike and remove them from the carrier they are in and use them as single bearings they are bigger but will work fine ... use alot of grease to hold the bearings in place slide the new modified race on and reassemble the clutch ...... I just did mine less than a week ago and it works better than stock it give you more clutch movement and engages tighter ....... my name is Billy and if you got any other questions call me any time if you need (805)915-7450
 
This is what I’ve got (see attached photos)
 

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I put 11 quarter inch steel balls in there, still not good, how thick should the clutch plate pad be? I am thinking the clutch pad is too thin.
 
Hi Herb-E, wish I could help but its been so long ago that I worked on my DB that I just don't kone but if I remember it took a lot of adjusting and fiddling to get it to work right. I don;t think your problem is the clutch material its that they really tricky to get adjusted.
 
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