Agricat crawler model-F

I'm using this Farmall air cleaner to go on the crawler.
It's missing the oil bath cup and the clamp that fits on the bottom but I should be able to get those parts off ebay.

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I'm going to use a rubber pad for bolting the air cleaner in place.
This will help keep the vibration from causing stress cracks in the mounting bracket.

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There is no easy way to fasten this to the side of the engine so I have made up a mounting bracket that bolts to the top of the fender on the right side.

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The air cleaner fastens onto that.
The bolts are threaded into the bracket with lock nuts on this side to keep the correct tension on the rubber pad.

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A steel air tube is connected to the carburetor.

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This goes over behind the engine to the other side.

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And connects to the air cleaner.

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The metal step plate is fastened down on top of the fender.

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These are the crossbar brackets for the grille.

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The holes are drilled into them for the grille bars and they are bolted onto the sides of the model-T shell.

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The first few grille bars are set in place and tack welded to the crossbar brackets.

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The rest of the bars are welded in with the grille sitting on the table.

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The finished grille is mounted back onto the crawler.

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The weather is getting warm enough that I can work out in the garage again. .....

The splices on the four hydraulic hard lines are all brazed up and the lines are painted.

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While I'm waiting for the coats of paint to dry on the hydraulic lines, I've started removing the hydraulic cylinders and control arms from the front loader arms.

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The seat is also removed.

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Here are the control arms for tilting the bucket.

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The pivot pins that hold everything together.

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The hydraulic control valve and hoses were removed as an assembly.

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As were the hydraulic cylinders and hoses.

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The loader arms and the two upright side mounting brackets are removed.

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Here you can see the loader arm assembly hanging from the hoist.
The upright side mounting bracket and rear support rod for this side is on the floor beside the crawler.

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The grille, hydraulic pump and the hoses are removed from the front of the engine

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Then the hood is removed.

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The rear hydraulic cylinder is removed.

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And finally the gas tank and the dash are taken off.
This leaves only the engine and transmission to be unbolted and lifted out before the crawler frame can be gotten ready to paint.

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The engine and transmission are pulled out of the crawler frame today.
It has been sprayed down with degreaser and rinsed off.
You can see the soapy water on the floor.

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The engine and transmission are set outside where they were sprayed with degreaser and rinsed off also.

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I have two tables set up for painting parts on.

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The loader frame is set up against a stack of wood.

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The grille and the seat are sitting on the floor patiently waiting for their chance to go up on the paint table.

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There is also a tray of locating pins that need to have their shafts masked off so that just the two ends get painted.
There are also some small parts and a tray with nuts and bolts sitting on the workbench that need painting

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The crawler was unmasked today.
It has also been taken off the blocks and set it down on jack stands so the track is just a little off the floor.
I needed to do this so I could rotate the drive shaft to paint the other side of it.

I also wanted it down off the blocks to assembly it back together.
I'm leaving it on the stands while I put it back together so when it's finished, I can test run it while it's still sitting in the garage.

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jdcrawler said:
The crawler was unmasked today.
It has also been taken off the blocks and set it down on jack stands so the track is just a little off the floor.
I needed to do this so I could rotate the drive shaft to paint the other side of it.

I also wanted it down off the blocks to assembly it back together.
I'm leaving it on the stands while I put it back together so when it's finished, I can test run it while it's still sitting in the garage.

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Click to expand...
Lots and lots of nice orange parts its goning to look good
 
The gas tank is mounted.

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And the hood latches are fastened on.

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Originally, the linkage bracket and lever for the choke cable was on the back side of the carburetor.
You can just see it behind the hose connecting the air pipe going to the air cleaner.
The big aluminum bracket and lever that is mounted on the side of the engine is for the throttle linkage.

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I have moved the choke linkage to the outside of the carburetor so it is a lot easier to get to.
Here you can see the throttle linkage better.

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The aluminum heat shield is mounted on the corner of the gas tank.

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The throttle lever and the choke cable knob are on the left side of the dash.
The gas level gauge is mounted in the center.

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The step plate on the fender and down on the side of the track are fastened on.
I put a washer under the step plate at each of the mounting screws so the bottom of the plate sets up off the surface of the fender a little.

This will help keep the step plate and fender from rusting and make it easier to clean the dirt out from under it so the little holes don't fill up.

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I'm using an air filter from a Farmall Cub.
It's a little hard to see in the photo but there are some big dents on the side that are up to about 3/8 inch deep.

In this photo you can see that I have cut around the bottom part of the housing.

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The bottom section is removed and all of the filter screens are pulled out of the housing.
The screens are stacked up on the workbench.

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I have clamped a 1/4 inch thick wall square steel tube in the vice.

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The filter housing is slid over the square tube and the dents are hammered out against the corner edge of the square tube.

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This gets the big deep dents out but the hammering itself creates a lot of small dents in the side.
These will be filled with glazing putty and sanded down smooth.

You can still see one big dent on the left end of the housing.
There is a steel panel inside the housing where the indented ridge is so I couldn't get this dented area onto the square tube to hammer it out.
It's on the back side of the filter so I'm going to leave it.

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After the filter housing is painted. the filter screens are put back inside it.

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Then the end piece is put back on.

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The center hole in the end piece is a nice tight fit onto the center air tube so it holds the bottom piece tight up to the filter housing without having to weld it in place.

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The oil cup is clamped onto the bottom and the air cap is put on top of the air intake tube to complete the filter assembly.

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The filter is then bolted onto the crawler.

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Dang nice Ray. Coming along nicely. Anxious to see and hear it running and moving. As always great job.
Is that green color a special blend you use or is it something one could find at a paint store?

Roger
 
hamman said:
Dang nice Ray. Coming along nicely. Anxious to see and hear it running and moving. As always great job.
Is that green color a special blend you use or is it something one could find at a paint store?

Roger
Click to expand...

It is Rustoleum dark hunter green.
They make a hunter green and a dark hunter green and there is a lot of difference between the two colors.
 
Last minute engineering change.
I have decided to put an aluminum radiator in the hydraulic return line to cool the hydraulic fluid.

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The rear mount is made up from a piece of 1/8 inch thick steel strap.
This strap fits under the gas tank mounting strap and the cooler is fastened to it with a rubber covered steel clamp.

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The front mount is a piece of pickup bed strap from my 59 Chevy truck.
The two ends are fastened to the grille support rods with small steel clamps and the cooler is fastened to it with two of the rubber covered clamps.

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This shows the clearance for the spark plugs.
I have a 6 inch, 12 volt electric, radiator cooling fan ordered to fit on top of the cooler.

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