1986 JD 316 Repower

KennyP

KennyP

In memory of Alice's Creator
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I got this tractor for a song and dance. It had not ran in ages. Has an Onan B43 16 HP that is well used/abused. I bought a boxed up Onan P220 and rebuilt it in this thread. It's now ready to put in the 316. But first I have to remove the inside part of the PTO clutch. That does not want to part from the old crankshaft! Hope it pops loose soon! I'll get some pics tomorrow!
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Went to work this morning and pulled the old engine. Then swapped out the starters as the solenoid one won't fit the frame. Got the exhaust and tins on.
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Put it in the tractor and hooked it all up. Found 2 ISSUES! :mad: First is no fire again! Module tests good, coil doesn't. Second is the drive shaft is now too short. Seems the snout on the B43 sticks out further that the P220. I'm done for the day. I'm going to Wichita tomorrow morning to have Thanksgiving with my son & family. Be back Friday afternoon.
 
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olcowhand said:
Onans have a different flywheel bolt pattern, requiring an adapter to be made. I made mine out of aluminum on my lathe so I could use a Kohler driveshaft to mate it to an Onan.
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I'll have to figure out some kind of spacer to work. May not mess with this today as temps will be falling all day!
 
Anyone live close to Chenango Forks, New York? I found a drive shaft there, but no shipping. It's cheap enough I can pay for shipping. Otherwise, mine will get lengthened.
 
I went out and took the driveshaft loose from the flywheel and stuck it back on the trans. Got an inch & a half clearance. So I made up a drawing for an adapter that is 1" thick to take up the space. Now to get one made up.
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KennyP said:
I went out and took the driveshaft loose from the flywheel and stuck it back on the trans. Got an inch & a half clearance. So I made up a drawing for an adapter that is 1" thick to take up the space. Now to get one made up.
View attachment 8393
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To get your bolt circle you measure from the outside of one hole and to the inside of the opposite hole. That is the way I do it.

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I played with it some more today. According to this, my coils are good.
Coil info.jpg

I checked continuity on the plug wires and got nothing. So I swapped to the Sears wires. As I let off the ign. switch while starting, it would spit back. This is new switch. Now I'm wondering if I have an issue in the onboard electrics. While cranking, I only have 8-9 volts to the coil. Put a jumper to get battery voltage, and again I got the spit back as I let off the key!
I may see what is involved to totally bypass the onboard system and see if it starts. If so, I'll be totally rewiring this without the 'box'! A much simpler way!
 
Now I'm confused! I have 2 Service manuals for these P engines. I posted the coil test from one yesterday. Here's from the other one:
Coil info2.jpg

Notice the secondary resistance, quite a bit different from the first manual. And my coils would be bad then. I'm getting 16K on one and 19K on the other.
EDIT: Anyone have a P-Series they could check the secondary resistance on?
 
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Kenney
I have had a problem with new switches. It cuts off ignition when cranking. So when you let off it fires Try running a wire from battery to coil to checking coil. Then check switch I think I had to connect to a different termmial. or used a different switch. On Kohlers the condesser is with the coil make sure the it is on the side of coil that goes to the points .
Thanks Bill
 
Brillionman said:
Kenney
I have had a problem with new switches. It cuts off ignition when cranking. So when you let off it fires Try running a wire from battery to coil to checking coil. Then check switch I think I had to connect to a different termmial. or used a different switch. On Kohlers the condesser is with the coil make sure the it is on the side of coil that goes to the points .
Thanks Bill
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I tried a wire directly from the battery to coil, saw a couple weak sparks to the spark tester then nothing. This has no points, condensor hooks to + side of coil on it. Took it off and no change. I have tested the ignition module and it shows as okay. Just nothing out of the secondary side of the coil.
 
Kenney I think you have a bad coil if you have a good single coil you can put in where your double coil is and see if you get spark if you have a new condenser should be - to points. + to battery. the 2 wire coils
are high but Pat's on line have the price I have found. That was the way it was on KT 17 i worked on.
thanks Bill
 
IT LIVES! :thumbs: I left a 2 amp charger going on it all night. Kept getting the spit back when I let go of the key. I had a set of RC12YC plugs ( washer seal instead of bevel) I threw at it and the sucker fired off. So off to the parts store for a new set of plugs. Had to get Autolite 104's, but it runs on them. The plug wires were bad also. I'll have to order those. But it's sounding good. I threw the plugs wires that came with it back on and it sputtered some. Put the others back on and she runs smooth! I'll have the drive shaft adapter before too long, then I can drive it around and break her in! I'm so happy! Guess I need a different spark checker, as I couldn't see the spark!
 
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