Agricat crawler model-F

The hydraulic lines are all hooked up and the air is bled out of the system.
The loader arm is being held up by it's own hydraulic pressure.

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The rear hitch is also being held up by it's cylinder.

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And of course, this is with the arm lowered.
I quickly realised that this pump has way too much capacity for this hydraulic system.

Just cranking the engine over on the starter alone will raise and lower the arm at a good rate of movement.
It moves way to fast with the engine running so I need to put a lower capacity pump on it.

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Pump looks like the ones we were putting on lift trucks.
 
The hydraulic lines are all hooked up and the air is bled out of the system.
The loader arm is being held up by it's own hydraulic pressure.

View attachment 93460

View attachment 93461

The rear hitch is also being held up by it's cylinder.

View attachment 93462


And of course, this is with the arm lowered.
I quickly realised that this pump has way too much capacity for this hydraulic system.
Just cranking the engine over on the starter alone will raise and lower the arm at a good rate of movement.
It moves way to fast with the engine running so I need to put a lower capacity pump on it.

This pump has a 1-1/16 SAE O-ring outlet and that size is rated at about 18 GPM.

View attachment 93463
Most guys have the opposite problem JD with not enough pump cap.
 
The short hydraulic cylinder that I hed mounted on the back of the crawler had leaked when I first tested it.
Turns out it has had water sitting inside it at one time and is rust pitted so it won't seal.

This is a photo of the front end loader when I had first got it.
If you look close, you can see the the that the shaft on the upper cylinder on the far side has rust pits on it.
I had replaced both of the upper cylinders with new ones.
I'm going to use that cylinder and cut it down to make a new cylinder for the back.

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The rust pits on the far cylinder are only on the part of the shaft that was exposed.
The cylinder is welded together on the closed end.
The open end has a cap that fits up inside the tube a little ways and is held in place by a 1/8 inch diameter rod that is pushed into a slot that is machined into the side of the tube.
That 1/8 inch rod has rusted and has broken off when I tried to remove it so I can't get the end cap off.

No matter .. I cut the closed end off the tube and unfastened the nut on that end of the shaft and removed the piston so I could then pull the shaft out of the open end.
I also cut the square block for the hose fitting off and cut the weld off the solid end cap.

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I'm going to re-use the solid end cap so I have turned the end down so it will fit inside the tube.
Then I cut an O-ring groove into it for an O-ring seal.

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The tube is shortened and the Square block for the hose fitting is welded back on the end.

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The shaft is put back in and the piston and nut are put back on.
Then the O-ring is slid onto the end cap and it is put back into the end of the tube.
This end cap is held in place with two 1/4 inch allen screws.
The cylinder is 14 inch long from center to center of the mounting holes when retracted.

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It has about 5-1/2 inch stroke.

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