Burning kerosene bothers my eyes but burning #1 diesel not at all. No idea why.
I have been using #1 to lite the fireplace and the corn stove in the basement, simply due to the price and availability. Can smell the diesel till it gets all burned off. Never had that with kero.
Jeez, twice as much as I paid at Fleet Farm, CJet! No minimum either. 1 gallon or 50 gallons. 5 bucks.I'm using #2 right now since its what we had on hand. I need to get some #1 and try it out. I need to check our local Co-op for kerosene. I know of one other place to get it in bulk but they want $9.99/gal.
I don't like either smell of diesel either, and now they make everyone put that cat p!$$ stuff in it and it stinks even worse!I know it's just me, but I hate the smell of diesel, both the exhaust and the liquid fuel, always have. Favourite fuel smell? Standing on the dock with my fishing tackle, and smelling outboard motor gas on a cool morning at the lake in summer. Brings back happy memories of my childhood on Lake of the Woods.
Yeah Rog, I understand where you are coming from, but I have decided not to fight it and try to learn how to use apps. It will be nice being able to adjust the temp from in the house rather than having to run to the shop in crappy weather to turn it up. I need to research doing a digital thermostat for the house now.Seems that everything has to app controlled on a phone any more. They set up Carolyns hearing aids that way also. And it doesn't work. They have one volume and changing it on the app don't do a thing. Mine controls with a switch right on the aid and has worked for several years. Just something else to drag along whenever she goes some place. Her aid "professional" and I are going to have a conversation her next appointment soon.
I got our old Kerosene heater out a couple of months ago cleaned it mostly dead bugs got into the box. It fired right up. I bought Kerosene for the first time in years it was $6.00 a gallon.Spent some time with our son today, then got out to the shop. I could do some work out in the lift bay with a jacket on, so I got on a ladder and brought down the old filthy kerosene heater. It was in the loft but right above the air compressor. Was able to scoot it over and slide it into the furnace shelf then bring it down on my head---LOL! I turned the wick up and it was wet and smelled like kerosene. The tank that is pulled out to fill is empty. I didn't try to fire it. Gotta do a major cleaning. One would think I would have put a bag over it but nope! I got real lucky, the "D" batteries were still in it and hadn't leaked. We quit using that thing in the mid 1990's. The crazy part is that the "Best if used by" batteries expired in 2007. Just for laughs I stuck them in the meter and they still showed good! Will change them anyway.
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It is a "Comfort Glow" brand, made in Japan rather than China.
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Went out to one of the sheds and got the kerosene cans. Still one more around here somewhere, but I'm only gonna fill one. I used that siphon pump that came with this heater just a couple months ago when I drained the fuel tank on the generator. Figured it was time to use that gas before it went bad.
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I found the wick online, but it was 2 minimum 16 bucks shipped.
I have to run a couple errands in town tomorrow so probably will fill a can at Fleet Farm. Have no clue what it will cost. Will clean it up and try to light it with the old wick since it seems to soak up fuel still. Maybe tomorrow. I might need some heat to put the furnace back together when the insulation and gaskets get here.
DAC
Sounds like you have air in it and needs to be bledYeah Rog, I understand where you are coming from, but I have decided not to fight it and try to learn how to use apps. It will be nice being able to adjust the temp from in the house rather than having to run to the shop in crappy weather to turn it up. I need to research doing a digital thermostat for the house now.
I got really lucky yesterday with the cherry picker going up high enough to put the furnace in position. I went ahead and removed the cylinder today and laid it done to dump some oil in it. Was a lot easier than doing it vertical. I filled it slightly over the hole in a vertical position.
Now it won't go any higher than this picture.
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I can't find any numbers to even attempt to order a rebuild kit for it, but there must be an internal seal that is leaking. No external leaks. I hate to take it to someone for repair but have no clue how to get a correct kit.
At least it stubbornly did the job yesterday---LOL!
DAC
Sorry Stew I had the same idea you did didn’t see your postTry loosening the screw (just loosen it about 3/4 of a turn so you provide an air escape around the threads - do not remove) where you filled it with oil and see if you get some air out (burp it) - might have to work the cylinder up and down a few times as well. Tie a rag around the cylinder underneath the screw to catch any oil seepage as any air escapes. Just a suggestion as I remember running into a similar situation on the cylinder on my little press and having to burp it to get it to work correctly again.
Edit: here is oil checking and adding instructions from the shop crane I have which uses a similar cylinder - this may help you
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Yeah your right Daniel if the wicks get crusty they are hard to ignite with the igniterYes it's likely the old fuel in wick preventing the lighter from igniting the wick. I have a round version of kerosene heater I had to buy when our power went out over 2 weeks and used it so I didn't have to run the generator 24/7. These heaters can really crank out the heat when you need it!
Thanks for that info, Stew! will try to give it a shot tomorrow. The fill plug is one of those dang rubber plugs that is difficult to get out and even harder to put back in. My wife is off work on Fridays now and our son came over for awhile. Had other stuff to do in the shop when I was able to get out there I will cover after answering comments.Try loosening the screw (just loosen it about 3/4 of a turn so you provide an air escape around the threads - do not remove) where you filled it with oil and see if you get some air out (burp it) - might have to work the cylinder up and down a few times as well. Tie a rag around the cylinder underneath the screw to catch any oil seepage as any air escapes. Just a suggestion as I remember running into a similar situation on the cylinder on my little press and having to burp it to get it to work correctly again.
Edit: here is oil checking and adding instructions from the shop crane I have which uses a similar cylinder - this may help you
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They are tough little heaters to sit unused for a long time, then will fire up with minimum maintenance after storage. Ours wasn't in the box so it was incredibly dirty.I got our old Kerosene heater out a couple of months ago cleaned it mostly dead bugs got into the box. It fired right up. I bought Kerosene for the first time in years it was $6.00 a gallon.
This wick is crusty, Jim. I need to research how to change the wick since I have 2 new ones now.Yeah your right Daniel if the wicks get crusty they are hard to ignite with the igniter
That is good advice, Rog! The only time I had to look at the buttons on this one was when I installed it in the shop and had to set up the app. It is hard to read the thermostat but easy to read on my phone. I will keep your advice in mind when looking for a house one though!DAC, when you go looking at thermostats for your hours, make sure you can read what the buttons are for without a flashlight. Ours has two buttons for controlling the Temp, and three for heat, off and cool but the letters for what each does is stamped into the plastic and have to have a flashlight to read them. The packaging showed them nice and clear.
Got any spray can straws Doug? You might be able to wedge one in besides the rubber plug and "burp" the air out with it without making too much of mess.Thanks for that info, Stew! will try to give it a shot tomorrow. The fill plug is one of those dang rubber plugs that is difficult to get out and even harder to put back in. My wife is off work on Fridays now and our son came over for awhile. Had other stuff to do in the shop when I was able to get out there I will cover after answering comments.
They are tough little heaters to sit unused for a long time, then will fire up with minimum maintenance after storage. Ours wasn't in the box so it was incredibly dirty.
This wick is crusty, Jim. I need to research how to change the wick since I have 2 new ones now.
That is good advice, Rog! The only time I had to look at the buttons on this one was when I installed it in the shop and had to set up the app. It is hard to read the thermostat but easy to read on my phone. I will keep your advice in mind when looking for a house one though!
About 3pm my friend called and said he was off work and will stop by to check the gas pressure on the shop furnace. Got his meter out and said it was right to specs from the manual at 3.6" on the manifold side. He is an HVAC tech for the local hospital and was the service foreman at a RV dealership for many years before that. He's the son of the guy I lettered that racecar for a couple weeks ago. Had to shoot the bull for awhile after he got done of course! I've known him since he was riding a tricycle!
He said in the RV business, quite often during the no heat season, spiders will build webs in the heat exchanger tubes, and that stuff is tough enough the heat doesn't burn it out and blowing compressed air through the tubes won't clear them either. That blockage may be what caused the tube to overheat, melting the hole in it. They have to be physically rubbed out of the tubes to get them out. Said he would wad up a rag, to work like a piston to blow through the tubes. There was evidence of spiders being around the furnace for sure, so it is a possibility. Some cobwebs and spider $h!t spots below them. They can crawl in form both directions too! Nasty little critters!
DAC