Should
Yes, you can fire them that way.
one thing to keep in mind, you will have some additional current draw through the points. Those points stay closed until they need the fire instead of stay open and then just snap closed and open... in other words, the points are closed 90% of the time instead of only 10% of the time.
I would suggest a dropping resistor like they used to have in the old Dodge cars in line with the coil.
one thing to keep in mind, you will have some additional current draw through the points. Those points stay closed until they need the fire instead of stay open and then just snap closed and open... in other words, the points are closed 90% of the time instead of only 10% of the time.
I would suggest a dropping resistor like they used to have in the old Dodge cars in line with the coil.
I don't have one of those resistor's on hand. May try without to see what happens! I have a couple more sets of points handy!
There you go. A car type coil with internal ballast should do for what he's doing
Got a 6 Volt battery. Don
That's the coil I plan to use, off my CC 108!
I went out and started putting the CC coil on it. Here's a pic of what's under the flywheel tin.
Took the magneto out and ran a new wire off the points for the coil.
All buttoned up to give it a go.
Still not firing, so I tore it back down and put in a new set of points and a new plug in it! It fired off! Went back in and put the magneto in it. It runs if I IV the fuel to it. Needs a carb or more work on this one! It has the side fuel pump and I put a new diaphragm in there, but still just runs for a few seconds if I pour gas in it. There was no smoke in the exhaust so no major issues there.
Took the magneto out and ran a new wire off the points for the coil.
All buttoned up to give it a go.
Still not firing, so I tore it back down and put in a new set of points and a new plug in it! It fired off! Went back in and put the magneto in it. It runs if I IV the fuel to it. Needs a carb or more work on this one! It has the side fuel pump and I put a new diaphragm in there, but still just runs for a few seconds if I pour gas in it. There was no smoke in the exhaust so no major issues there.
Kenny, peer into the tank when you take the carb off to be sure the "sump" the carb pull the fuel from doesn't have pinholes rusted into it. If there are holes, it won't have fuel to draw from. The long tube from the carb pumps the fuel from deep in the tank into the sump, then the short tube is what sends the fuel to the intake.
I didn't see any when I had it all apart earlier, Daniel! But it may be dry yet as I didn't put a lot of gas in it. When I pour some in the carb, it starts right up quick. So I know it'll run. Just have to get the carb working now!
I have already replaced that. Just may not have the sump filled yet!
I messed with it some more. Didn't try to start it, but I took the muffler off so I could get to the fuel pump cover. Took it off and got a little gas out of there, so it's trying to work. I noticed the gasket between the carb and block was wet yesterday, so I got those bolts out. That was fun! I put a thin layer of RTV on the gasket and put that all back together. I checked the needle and it was only out about a turn, supposed to be 1-1/2 for initial setting. I had a short piece of throttle/choke cable and hooked it to the throttle linkage so it will maybe have a chance to run, turned the idle speed screw in some to speed the idle up too. Got the oil draining. it's black!!! Hopefully, it will appreciate all the attention and at least stay running next time.
Kenny, were the bolts in the intake Phillips head bolts? When we were racing them we always traded those out for hex head 5/16" bolts and used a thin box end wrench.
No, they are 3/8" head with the slots cut across them. If you removed the tank, you can use a big screwdriver to get them out. I used an L-shaped screwdriver to loosen/tighten them!