Finally, I got the wheel off

Propane1

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
The axle shaft. Jumpins I’ve been a fightin this thing on and off for a month, I think. Put puller on it at the first, oiled and tighten up puller. Every other day I hit puller and turn it a little. So tried that for a while. Didn’t seem to be working. Next I tried using a map gas torch on it. Not much luck there either. Next, last week, I use acetylene and oxygen torch. Got it to move about 1/4”. Today I used the map gas again. Hardly any acetylene left and want to save that if I could. Every thing so expensive to run a hobby shop. Any way it moved, so turning and tapping puller it kept going. Used the map gas once more. Then it would move without using the heat. A half turn on puller, a few taps, more turning and tapping. Had to do that right to the end. Wheel is on the shaft two and three quarters of an inch. So now I can put a tube in the tire. And I’m gunna pull the other wheel off and anti seize it too. No leak in other wheel.
Had did a post about this, I think, asking for ideas how to get it off, but can’t find it now.

Noel
 

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Lance Skene

Alberta, Canada
Senior Member
Member
I had a JD110 with the 2300 peerless where the hubs were stuck to the splined axles just as bad... took several days of penetrating fluid, heat, and alot of patients to get those apart without causing any damage.... those axle shafts and hubs then went into the Columbia when I rebuilt that transaxle.
 

Propane1

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
Well went to the other side to try that wheel. This tire has a tube in it. And I think I put it in years ago. So I was hoping for it to come off easier, but was expecting the worst. Any way, put the puller on, put the wrench on the puller and it wound the wheel of without much trouble. No amount of any lube on the shaft or wheel, but I would say that I would have put grease on it when I had it apart. So as a yearly service a fella should be takin the wheels off and lubing them up, right. I’ll put that thought in my memory bank. Hehe.

Noel
 

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Propane1

Tractorologist
Senior Member
Member
So now I’ll put the tube in the right rear wheel and put both wheels back on. Anti-seize, oil or grease, what are your recommendations to put on to keep from seizing on again. ?
I might even do a quick paint job on the wheel I burnt all the paint off of. Which means I should do both wheels. Right.

Noel
 

Lance Skene

Alberta, Canada
Senior Member
Member
I also use that copper stuff on the backside of any aluminum wheels on cars/trucks... if you leave those alum rims on for 10+ yrs they can be a major pita to get off. Oil and grease attract dirt, leak out and looks crappy.... any can of anti seize product would likely last you a lifetime.
 

olcowhand

Daniel In KY
Staff member
Administrator
Yep, put antiseize on those suckers! My old big bottle of silver anti-seize is almost empty and I'm getting the copper type next. This 8 ounce bottle is likely over 15+ years old. We used the copper Permatex at Southern States and I like it better.
 

jason silliker

Jason
Senior Member
Member
Yep, put antiseize on those suckers! My old big bottle of silver anti-seize is almost empty and I'm getting the copper type next. This 8 ounce bottle is likely over 15+ years old. We used the copper Permatex at Southern States and I like it better.
Copper is better then aluminum especially where heat is involved. It will go hard and gall if it gets too hot ie brake hardware
 
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