Got the Case 222 into the Shop

Tried the Case this morning started up ran good so took it out for a drive, went good shifted it into Hi-range and away I went then tried reverse and oh boy it is fast in reverse back to forward no shut off problems so I think I found the problem and got it fixed decided to power wash it and it looks a lot better now hoping the new carb gets here as it needs it and then I can install the air filter assy. The steering wheel is a bit bent was going to remove it and check out the upper shaft bearing and see if I have a steering wheel that was in better shape but someone JB welded the wheel hub and it must has got into the bolt as it would not move hit it a number of times with a large hammer nothing so it will stay as it is
 
Not having a good day the new carb came went to install it and there is no knob to attach the governor link to the carb throttle arm e mailed the seller he wanted picture and an explanation of the problem, explained to him what the problem was only had one picture available he couldn't figure it so this morning I got more pictures and sent to him have not heard back yet. So I got busy and fabricated a link adapter got it installed it will work needs some fine tuning, engine started ran ok but now there's a new problem gas is leaking out of this new carb boy what fun will be e mailing him about this if he doesn't want to make it right I'll have to open a dispute thur EBay

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I had to put a Chinese carb on my Polaris Ranger to get it running. Overflow and drain both go out the bottom. Carb would always overflow and leek a bit of gas out. Had to run a tube from that nipple into a quart oil bottle and empty it about every week or so. Finally got the OEM carb rebuilt right after 3 tries, once by me & twice by a mechanic and have it on now. Still not right but runs pretty decent and no gas leak.
 
Looks like the same carb I put on the K321 on the MF1450, Gary. So far it has ran fine, but I've only driven it once. Ran it quite a bit though. No leaks but the fuel tank I'm using has a shutoff, and i always use it. The fuel pump shouldn't let gas keep flowing through should it?

My budget has required me to buy several of those Chinese carbs, including the one on my '55 GMC. No problems with any of them---so far, knock on wood!

DAC
 
MFDAC said:
Looks like the same carb I put on the K321 on the MF1450, Gary. So far it has ran fine, but I've only driven it once. Ran it quite a bit though. No leaks but the fuel tank I'm using has a shutoff, and i always use it. The fuel pump shouldn't let gas keep flowing through should it?

My budget has required me to buy several of those Chinese carbs, including the one on my '55 GMC. No problems with any of them---so far, knock on wood!

DAC
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Hi Doug, I have installed at least 15 Chinese aftermarket carbs have always had good luck with them, but I suppose sooner or later a dud will come by. It does not leak static just when the engine is running I think its coming out the throat of the carb and the old did this also so I may have another problem? Just to cover the bases I checked the valve lash yesterday afternoon the intake was tight but the exhaust was ok both good now, that's as far as I got
 
Good Morning well went into the shop this morning installed the new aftermarket carb and a new gas hose from the fuel pump to the carb started the engine and it ran good and NO gas leaking oh happy day, so I viloated the rule never fix 2 things at once if you want to know what the problem is/was. Not sure if adjusting the intake valve did it or was the gas hose leaking, I'm leaning toward the valve lash setting.Installed the aircleaner assy and took it out for a test drive that went good except the throttle wants to move back to about half will work on that later today
 
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Well I spoke a little to soon it starts and runs good and has an oil leak at the valve cover must not have gotten the gasket right, so this morning removed the carb to get at the valve cover got it all off and found the problem, when I removed the inner cover some bits of the gasket stayed on the engine not enough to notice on the gasket I'm sure that's where the oil was getting past cleaned the surfaces good used some loctite gasket sealer on the gaskets and got it all back together, didn't run it thought I'd let everything seal overnite. I don't like the dipstick at all its in an almost impossible place to get at and it has to be wrong for this engine, this engine being a K301AS means it has a special oil pan used on the Case tractors and Cub Cadets and they only take 1.5 US Qts of oil. Well with 1.5 Qts of oil in the engine it just barely is on the very end of the dipstick so for now I'm going to extend it 1.5 in
 
Interesting about the oil level Gary. We use the stuff that Ford uses for gasket sealant. It’s gray in colour, and needs to set for a day before use. Hehe. Son works at the Ford dealer here. But I’ve heard other garages that use it too.

We know it works. Because, the 343 engine in the rambler was leaking oil out the rear block seal after rebuild with in a month. This was years ago,, but any way, we had to take the engine out again. We resealed the rear block with this Ford sealant. Never leaked again. We used what the rambler book told us to use. Permatex gasket sealer. That dark brown stuff.

Noel
 
. We used what the rambler book told us to use. Permatex gasket sealer. That dark brown stuff.

Not to sound like a wisea, but sealant technology has changed a bit since Ramblers were built. Our truck engines today have very few gaskets on them. Most surfaces are sealed with a bead of something at assembly, not a gasket.
 
JBRamsey said:
. We used what the rambler book told us to use. Permatex gasket sealer. That dark brown stuff.

Not to sound like a wisea, but sealant technology has changed a bit since Ramblers were built. Our truck engines today have very few gaskets on them. Most surfaces are sealed with a bead of something at assembly, not a gasket.
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True. That’s what my son tells me. But I think if they have troubles sealing some thing, they use this gray sealant.

Noel
 
Well the gasket and sealant worked no leaking so I pushed it outside used the PK with the loader raised it up and power washed its belly looks good now gave it a good rinse overall and blew it dry with an air gun. Started it and took it out for a test drive ran good no big leaks adjusted the throttle calbe rigging some now have it idling at about 1750 R's and WOT is about 3300 will go with that for now. Still trying to figure out the dipstick with 1.5 qts in the engine I can not see anything on the dipstick, I took an old welding rod stuck it in and I can see about 3/4" of oil on it so I may try painting the dipstick to see if some constrast will show the oil level if that doesn't I'll extend it about an inch
 
Well painting the dipstick was of no help so I cut it and added an inch to the length and that worked it now reads full with 1.5 qts of oil, put a seat cover on the seat and it looks good, drove it around some and its running good about the only thing left on the engine is the top cooling tin but I have one coming my neighbor and friend has an old engine in his junk pile and it has the tin on it said he'd give me the engine when he gets it out of the pile, next I will get the deck in and check it over

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Most dip sticks are a brighter metal color and the oil is usually dark. I would think painting the dip stick sliver/aluminum may work better. Just a passing thought.
 
chieffan said:
Most dip sticks are a brighter metal color and the oil is usually dark. I would think painting the dip stick sliver/aluminum may work better. Just a passing thought.
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Hi Roger, yep I left it as it was unpainted it was just to short with tractors this old some one may have chaged the dipstick or this engine may have been one with the flat bottom 2 qt oil pan, as many Case engines like the Cub Cadets had the dipstick oil filler as part of the cam gear cover, if I come across a reasonable price filler/dipstick like that I would buy it and install it
 
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