My lathe came with a coolant pump and it's still in the unopened box. Decided I didn't want to deal with the mess. When needed I have cutting oil in an open spill proof container and brush it on. Seems to work fine.
My new 1943 South Bend 9c lathe
- Thread starter Ryan313
- Start date
I think that I’d I had set up with a big oil bath like that, I’d get more aggravated over dropped tools than anything.
I’ve been making some more progress, the headstock is assembled, and the carriage is coming along. All I have left now is the tail stock, and carriage apron.
This, is the part I am most excited about! The change gear chart goes on the gear cover facing the wall; previously, I was removing the cover to read the chart. I thought about just writing down all of the ratios, but thought that maybe the plate could be scanned. I made a quick trip to the local copy office, and asked what they could do. In 5 minutes I was walking out with 2 posters and couldn’t be happier with them.
I’ve been making some more progress, the headstock is assembled, and the carriage is coming along. All I have left now is the tail stock, and carriage apron.
This, is the part I am most excited about! The change gear chart goes on the gear cover facing the wall; previously, I was removing the cover to read the chart. I thought about just writing down all of the ratios, but thought that maybe the plate could be scanned. I made a quick trip to the local copy office, and asked what they could do. In 5 minutes I was walking out with 2 posters and couldn’t be happier with them.
Can you cut threads like that?
Not really. You can add a controller called an "Electronic Leadscrew" and do threading, but otherwise you need the synchronized leadscrew-spindle motion from the geartrain.
Would have to put the gears back in to drive the screw but doubt I will ever cut any threads. Have a couple good sets of taps and die for that.
This is a good point. I run a machine shop daily, and honestly only single-point threads on the lathe about three or four times a year. It does depend on the type of work you do, though.
What do you guys think of a low speed high torque drill for the feed? Not enough torque? Not enough rpm range?
I managed to get everything painted, put together, and the chuck mounted. The chuck is an 8 inch, I don’t think I need one that big, maybe I should have got a 6 inch. If I start having issues for whatever reason, I’ll have to order a 6 to replace it. Maybe I will order a 3 jaw 6 anyway.
I managed to get everything painted, put together, and the chuck mounted. The chuck is an 8 inch, I don’t think I need one that big, maybe I should have got a 6 inch. If I start having issues for whatever reason, I’ll have to order a 6 to replace it. Maybe I will order a 3 jaw 6 anyway.
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I'd suggest the smaller chuck if you can afford it. You won't be able to run 8" pieces even if the jaws don't hit the ways, not enough rigidity in the headstock for anything that big. 6" is bigger than most of what you'll do, anyway. A good three jaw is accurate enough for most repair and modification work.
I have heard of people using an electric screw driver to run the lead screw or the cross feed of a small lathe. Should work good if every thing is properly adjusted. A 6" four jaw chuck is much more versatile than a three jaw. You can hold odd shapes and move the center to where you need it. A 3 jaw is designed for speed in a production shop. A 4 jaw will do every thing a 3 jaw will with better accuracy. It just takes a little more skill and time. With repeated use the skill should come. Just make sure you get one with either reversible jaws or both inside and outside jaws. Don
I got a 3 jaw with reversible jaws for mine and haven't found anything I needed a bigger chuck for. My lead screw has a small wheel that PO put a handle on for manual feed. I like it real well as the speed is adjustable with quick response if needed. I don't think I would like a drill on the lead screw.