New Sonic Cleaner

If I am cleaning oily or greasy parts I boil them in a large container on a propane burner. I think you can get better results with rust removal using electrolysis, sand, or bead blasting than with a sonic cleaner. I see some people have OK results using sonic cleaners for rust but it really depends on what kind of solution you are using. Where the sonic cleaners really shine is getting into small passages and crevices. I also want to try using small glass or plastic containers to put the cleaning solution in with the part and float that in just water in the sonic cleaner. That way you only contaminate the small amount of cleaning solution.
Yeah but it pisses me off when I see something like a carburetor that was blasted... Many have coatings on them that are supposed to be there that blasting always takes away
 
Yeah but it pisses me off when I see something like a carburetor that was blasted... Many have coatings on them that are supposed to be there that blasting always takes away
I was talking about the wrenches and hammers, etc.... that they use in their advertising of the sonic cleaners. The carbs I sand or bead blast are mostly cast iron for our antique tractors. If I do blast an aluminum carb it because they are already corroded. You can also use walnut shells or soda to clean without removing the coating. That said, this is why I am upgrading my sonic cleaner so I can fit some of the bigger carbs that I go thru occassionally.
 
I’ve been binge watching DIY vibratory cleaners on YouTube for awhile. I haven’t quite got enough wiggle in the container yet but I’m getting there. My use would be cleaning old hardware, I hate that. I’ve tried electrolysis but don’t care for the results. You still have to clean them up with a wire brush.
 
I use the snot out of mine I'm on my 3rd one. Took me a bit to realize the 2nd one didn't work "out of the box"... I bought that one because it was bigger than my 1st one in which I could do 3 typical small engine carbs in one shot but couldn't do a single 2 barrel car carb in it / let alone a 4 barrel Carter AFB.... The 2nd one was quieter and less "buzzy" than the one before it and the one after it/ I thought at first it was because it was a different brand or something but actually it was a dud.
So when I killed the first one I bought a "6L" and it was junk out of the box. I think the one I have now is a "3 or 4L". I can do the 2 bbl carbs , 2 of the 3 parts at a time. So the throttle body and the air horn in one bath then the main body in round 2.
I have a taken apart distributor out of a 318 in it right now. Not quite deep enough to get the housing in 1 shot, can get 2/3 of it submerged at a time then have to rotate it to get the "undone" side and cycle It again. Id like to get a 6Lor maybe an 8L so I can do a 4 barrel.
 
Yeah but it pisses me off when I see something like a carburetor that was blasted... Many have coatings on them that are supposed to be there that blasting always takes away
That glass beading take off more than most people think. When I was teching modified race cars I ran into several that had just got their carb back from glass Beeding and would not pass the Guage test. Gauger was not to fall throguh but they did.. $300 carb I had to confiscate and send to NASCAR for verification. If it failed they kept the carb.
 
It took about 1.5 hours to go from 13°C to 60°C. Ran the first carb from a Stihl 026 chainsaw through the sonic cleaner using a glass Peanut Butter jar with Simple Green for the cleaning solution and just setting it in the water in the tank. Cleaned it up pretty good.
 

Attachments

  • 100_6070-m.jpg
    100_6070-m.jpg
    211.4 KB · Views: 8
  • 100_6072-m.jpg
    100_6072-m.jpg
    120.3 KB · Views: 8
  • 100_6073-m.jpg
    100_6073-m.jpg
    239.5 KB · Views: 9
  • 100_6074-m.jpg
    100_6074-m.jpg
    246.6 KB · Views: 9
Back
Top