Pallet Kohler Engines
- Thread starter MNGB
- Start date
It possible Noel I was in a hurry to see if it would run and forgot to set the points gap as I reinstalled them, its definitely popping at least I figure its worth spending some more time on it
Well I adjusted the point gap it was to much started the engine it ran better but is still spitting and backfiring some not as much , so I'm going to check the valve lash next. Found the carb leak I was going to wipe off the float bowl to see where the leak might be and the bowl turned got a 9/16" wrench tightened the bottom bolt and no more leak
I've been looking on Ebay for crankshafts, but haven't gotten real excited as I don't have any need for the engines, I guess they would make puller engines
Well only got a short time to work on the K321, removed the carb and gov arm so I could pull the valve cover.breather off, the valve lash for a K321 is .008 to .010" for the intake and 0.017" to 0.019" for the exhaust so got the feller guage out checked the intake could not get 0.09" to slip in so I adjusted it to 0.09" then on to the exhaust same thing a 0.018" would not go in so the exhaust set to 0.18" reinstalled the valve cover the carb adjusted the governor per the manual and that was as far as I got before it was time to go to the house. I'm pretty sure it will run as it should tomorrow, also got the street elboe out of the exhaust port so I can run my 1" NPT in and clean the threads and put a muffler on.
Someone had been into the valves as the stud that holds the valve cover/breather was loose only screwed in a couple of turns
Someone had been into the valves as the stud that holds the valve cover/breather was loose only screwed in a couple of turns
Just came back from the shop didn't go in this AM was cold and wind was blowing 22 to 30 mph., temp is 10*F wind has gone done and its clear and sunny. Well the valve adjustment did the trick it started and runs good now fine tuned the carb but I'm getting no DC output the stator tests ok I'm reading 30 VAC but nothing from the DC out tried 2 different good rectifier / voltage regulators have a good engine to VR ground so not sure what is happening. I'm wondering if this engine might has a 20 or 25 amp stator and the 15 amp VR may not work? The reason I'm wondering about it being more that 15 amp is all the other stators I've checked have 20 to 25 VAC never seen one go to 30 VAC, going to do some searching, if nothing else I have another stator I can install
Here's a video of todays run be daenned if I can figure out how I madew this 14 hp into a vertical engine but I managed
Here's a video of todays run be daenned if I can figure out how I madew this 14 hp into a vertical engine but I managed
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Hey Noel I was thinking about that but got side tracked yes it could be the wiring on the test stand lost connection got to check that first, I do know that these regulators have to have about a 1 amp draw on them or they don't work so that could very well be my problem
Yea another thing I generally don't check AC voltage at full R's so that explains things (20 VAC) on that part
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Good news on the alternator situation was only into the shop to check on it but did a quick start and short run on the K321, discovered it starts much better with gas in the gas tank anyway took a quick look at the wires to the alternator switch on the control panel nothing obvious so I hooked up a jumper lead from the VR DC terminal to the + battery cable knew right away it was working as there was some sparks as I connected the jumper check the voltmeter a it was reading 14.4 VDC hooray Boy I sure don't like this zero to - temps just plain cold
What are you doing with these engines?
If MN wasn't so far away, I'd be interested in one.
You still have the cranks out of those ariens machines that you parted out? They would go right in those M16s..... "Just sayin"
If MN wasn't so far away, I'd be interested in one.
You still have the cranks out of those ariens machines that you parted out? They would go right in those M16s..... "Just sayin"
There was only one engine with the Ariens tractors and that engine basically only need a cylinder head bought a head and its a good runner. I have a plan for this 14 hp engine that has no CS PTO have a project that will be driven off the flywheel and no need for a PTO. As for the 2 M16's no plans and if you come on by I'd sell you one
I have broke a lot of them lose that way before impacts. Never had one snap off like that. Sorry for the bad advice. Was that a complete new break or was it started by using an impact putting it on way back when?No concrete mixers or raspberry filled donuts and its all Rogers fault, I tried again with a 7/8" box end and used my dead blow hammer gave it a good whack and it was off the bad thing is it snapped off even with the end of the CS.
Ok on a better note I removed the oil dip stick/'filler tube then removed the starter from the red M16 I did put a wrap of duck tape on the brushes end screwed the bolts out and put it on the black M16 it really went good not near what I had imaged in my head so this afternoon will crank it over and check for spark and see if it wants to run
Hey Roger I was only razzing you, it was a complete fresh break thinking about it now it may have been left hand thread, I've never come across LH in a CS before but it could be. Its darn cold here in WC MN this AM -15*F and I'm not liking it
Same here Gary I’m reluctant about using an impact on some things not knowing which way is out. I bought HF Earthquake gun a few years ago it goes up to 1200lbs. I don’t think I’ve ever used it on that setting. When the weather warms up you might could weld you a nut on the end and crank it the other way.Hey Roger I was only razzing you, it was a complete fresh break thinking about it now it may have been left hand thread, I've never come across LH in a CS before but it could be. Its darn cold here in WC MN this AM -15*F and I'm not liking it
First off I'm not that worried about getting it removed and if I did attempt it I'd ask on the Kohler FB group if it was LH or RH thread, if a guy wanted a Hydraulic power unit this engine would work just fine as it is
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Went to the shop to check that everything was okand checked the wiring from the control panel, wire from battery to the CB good from CB to switch good from switch to the ammeter good and the switch is good so checked the wire from the ammeter to the VR it was good what the devil then I found it was a bad ground connection fixed that and started the engine and its producing 14+ VDC and showing 10+ amps on the ammeter
Well the K321 is pretty much done for now it starts and runs good have the cooling tins in place so I disconnect the wiring from the test stand and worked on the stator 3 prong plug (I would like to have a serious talk with the joker that cut the DC wire off right at the plug) but I managed to get the slip connector out of the plug now its to find the new special slip connectors that install in the plug I ordered some last year and put them where they are safe but now I can't remember the safe place