I’m going to look at this tomorrow. Hopefully it’s like he said everything works as it should except for one broken cable. He mentioned a bad tire but they both look good in the pic. Even with these problems it’s well worth what he’s asking.
Picked Up A White Rear Tine Tiller
- Thread starter Sawdust
- Start date
I've seen the same machine as a yard machine, as an mtd, and as a crapsman
I’m not sure on the tillers but I know with the tractors most of the older versions of the White brand were two tone gray using mostly older quality parts. It was in the late 80’s going into the 90’s they were red and gray. That was the transition of quality to junk equipment that MTD made when they took over so many manufacturers.
I had one like it Jim only with the Craftsman stickers on it. Absolutely nothing wrong with them. Mine worked great. Tines are still available too if you should them.
Check for any play or movement on the tine axle shaft coming out of the transmission. Had to replace mine.
Check for any play or movement on the tine axle shaft coming out of the transmission. Had to replace mine.
I have a friend that has the Craftsman model and it’s a beast. It takes one in our area because of so many rocks and clay. This front tined JCPenney that I have has really whipped me in the past three years. It’s a tank and will till with you or without you no matter what is in it’s path. I’ll probably sell it in the Fall when the prices go back up. This guy lives about an hour from me and he volunteered to post it Sale Pending so I’m thankful for that. If it’s what he says I’ll not haggle with him I’ll be glad to give him his asking price.
Verify the engine brand on the machine. It has the square look to it. It could be a China clone B+S knock-off. The images were not clear enough to determine.
Yup that's the one I had, my parents had the red MTD version.
I don’t think the China B&S Clones weren’t used until early 2000. This tiller is older than that. I’m thinking late 80’s or early 90’s. I’ll do a follow up hopefully tomorrow.
Now that looks more like the Clone engine with the clipped corner on the air cleaner. Is that an early 2000. Even if it is some of them were good engines and good equipment from what I’ve read.
Nope, it's a 2014 B+S 900 Series.
900 Series™
Briggs & Stratton<sup>®</sup> horizontal engines are tough, reliable and efficient. They offer the best value for entry market engines.
www.briggsandstratton.com
Funny how B.S. is rating their 212 cc motors at 9h.p.Nope, it's a 2014 B+S 900 Series.
900 Series™
Briggs & Stratton<sup>®</sup> horizontal engines are tough, reliable and efficient. They offer the best value for entry market engines.
View attachment 70980
Everybody' else's 212cc motors are 6 - 6 1/2 h.p.
I think that "9" is torque rating. Almost sure its a screw up in print..
Had a guy try to convince me once till I did some homework..
Actually just seen its 206cc. Smaller yet
Well I picked it up this morning, it’s much better than I expected. I got myself use to looking at the Troy Bilt Juniors and Ponies but this is much bigger. The engine started up first pull there and several times here at home. It’s a 1998 Engine 5 hp. 18” swath, forward, reverse, forward and backward tines all work as they should. One tire won’t hold air and the cable to engage the forward and reverse has been smashed. The PO said he done it by getting it caught in the swing away handle. I’m very happy with it. I just couldn’t haggle with him because of the price being so good. I can’t find a manual anywhere on it. It’s a GB 550 model, I found the 330 model but not mine. I’ll probably get a tube for the bad tire, and order a new cable because it’s smashed pretty good.
Attachments
I think several of them were badged differently but the same tiller. I’m really happy with this one. I tried it out the other day and it’s a whole lot different from my front tine tank.
I got my clutch cable, drive belt, and a pair of inter tubes awhile back. Now I can’t get the wheel off to put a tube in. In a perfect world just pull the pin out of the hub and it should slide right off.
There is no where to put a puller on this. It took me an hour to make a jig and another half hour getting it mounted. I have it torqued pretty good but no budge. I can’t get a torch in there without burning the tire to heat the hub and axle. It’s been soaking for about three weeks. I’m going to leave it under pressure hoping it pops off on its own.
I had a hard time getting my brake disc off of my MTD 990 several years ago. I played with it for over a week leaving the three jaw puller under pressure. One day I peeped at it and gave it a shot of PB blaster then walked away as many times before. About ten minutes later it sounded like a rifle went off and as I turned to look my brake disc and puller was about five feet in the air. If that had happened sooner I wouldn’t be so pretty. Lol
There is no where to put a puller on this. It took me an hour to make a jig and another half hour getting it mounted. I have it torqued pretty good but no budge. I can’t get a torch in there without burning the tire to heat the hub and axle. It’s been soaking for about three weeks. I’m going to leave it under pressure hoping it pops off on its own.
I had a hard time getting my brake disc off of my MTD 990 several years ago. I played with it for over a week leaving the three jaw puller under pressure. One day I peeped at it and gave it a shot of PB blaster then walked away as many times before. About ten minutes later it sounded like a rifle went off and as I turned to look my brake disc and puller was about five feet in the air. If that had happened sooner I wouldn’t be so pretty. Lol
I had the same tiller but it was red. Haha
<<< I can’t get a torch in there without burning the tire to heat the hub and axle>>>
You don't want to heat the axle. Just the hub, and only in one spot. An old welder/fabricator told me that several years ago. The trick is to expand the hub so it will release from the axle. To much heat, or for to long and you expand both and defeat the purpose.
You don't want to heat the axle. Just the hub, and only in one spot. An old welder/fabricator told me that several years ago. The trick is to expand the hub so it will release from the axle. To much heat, or for to long and you expand both and defeat the purpose.