Sears suburban 18/6 rebuild w/ Predator 420 swap

1&1/2" spacers?

Yep you all guessed, Just 1"spacers. I always felt the suburbans fell tipsy with a skinny width, these may help. I had to have my buddy mill out the back centers so they would fit over the hub of the Sears axle. I will have to drill out the rim bolt holes just a smidge, the studs are larger than older sears lug bolts. I picked up 4 of these spacers when we were on Bardstown last year at the peddlers mall for $20, can't beat that going on a GT. The other 2 will eventually go on the Sears 16/6.
 
I will have to drill out the rim bolt holes just a smidge, the studs are larger than older sears lug bolts. I picked up 4 of these spacers when we were on Bardstown last year at the peddlers mall for $20, can't beat that going on a GT. The other 2 will eventually go on the Sears 16/6.
I had to drill the rim holes on my Super 12. Put the spacers on with Loctite. I had one come loose at Daniels plow day.
You stole them at 4 for $20. :) Rick
 
What's wrong with Purple?

nothing is wrong with purple, my mustang gt that i bought 20 years ago is yellow. one day I pulled out the back seats and saw dark purple, I didn't realize when I bought it was repainted yellow. we did some further research and ford made about 4200 purple ones in 96, and mine is 1 of 37 convertibles with the options it has in it. and it also the 1st of the 37. so someday the plan is to have it redone in its original purple color.
 
I had to drill the rim holes on my Super 12. Put the spacers on with Loctite. I had one come loose at Daniels plow day.
You stole them at 4 for $20. :) Rick
I do remember you having that problem. The way my spacers are made, I have to use hex head bolts and washer, factory bolts are too small. I got some long enough to thread through and put nuts on the back with a drop of thread locker. I will need to drill rim's just a tad.
 
nothing is wrong with purple, my mustang gt that i bought 20 years ago is yellow. one day I pulled out the back seats and saw dark purple, I didn't realize when I bought it was repainted yellow. we did some further research and ford made about 4200 purple ones in 96, and mine is 1 of 37 convertibles with the options it has in it. and it also the 1st of the 37. so someday the plan is to have it redone in its original purple color.

My wife and I almost bought a 96 Purple V6 Rustang, dealer would not come down $300 to make the deal. We drove to another dealership and ended up buying a 96 ext cab Splash Ranger.
 
I do remember you having that problem. The way my spacers are made, I have to use hex head bolts and washer, factory bolts are too small. I got some long enough to thread through and put nuts on the back with a drop of thread locker. I will need to drill rim's just a tad.
Are they 1/2" instead of 7/16"? You can get those here:
 
Are they 1/2" instead of 7/16"? You can get those here:

Kenny, I think the Sears lug bolts are 7/16", but these adapters are drilled for larger lug nuts. The heads on the factory studs are small compared to the drilled seat on the spacers. I'm afraid they would eventually pull through as spacer metal is a little thin where the factory bolts would seat. I feel safer using bolts and putting nuts on the back of the hub. The spacers already have the 1/2" studs and nuts so have to drill trims out just a tad for them to slide on.
 
Kenny, I think the Sears lug bolts are 7/16", but these adapters are drilled for larger lug nuts. The heads on the factory studs are small compared to the drilled seat on the spacers. I'm afraid they would eventually pull through as spacer metal is a little thin where the factory bolts would seat. I feel safer using bolts and putting nuts on the back of the hub. The spacers already have the 1/2" studs and nuts so have to drill trims out just a tad for them to slide on.
Now I get the picture. It's the bolts for the spacer to hub you are using nuts on!
 
Do you know what the spacers were originally from?? I have a pair of 1.625" spacers that came here on an AC B10... not sure if they belong there but they werent actually 'Needed' so I stole them and put them on my Bolens Ram.

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Do you know what the spacers were originally from?? I have a pair of 1.625" spacers that came here on an AC B10... not sure if they belong there but they werent actually 'Needed' so I stole them and put them on my Bolens Ram.

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If they were on a A/C B10, they were used to allow the A/C loader to fit on the tractor. That's why they were on it. The L10 and L12 loader frame was too wide to mount on the rear axle without the spacers
 
If they were on a A/C B10, they were used to allow the A/C loader to fit on the tractor. That's why they were on it. The L10 and L12 loader frame was too wide to mount on the rear axle without the spacers

hmm... too bad the loader didnt come with it... but hey, it was a freebie, minus the seat, gas tank, and carb... and now it missing the wheel spacers also. I had a buddy machine the inside about 1/4 deep to fit the RaM hubs

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:eek::eek::eek::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

Sanded, wiped down with acetone and it crazed again. I didn't take it all the way down, but guess I have no choice.
What's weird is it did this no where else nor did it do this with the first coat, I'm stumped.
Only thing I figure is the first coat was using the Rustoleum 2x with primer built it. Final coat was regular Rustoleum, but again the whole tractor was done like this, only spot to crackled was this fender.
Makes me scared to clear coat it when I'm done with paint.


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Taking it to metal is likely the only way to rid it. Sometimes it soes this when it doesn't have enough cure between coats and can hit random spots. Using hardener in bulk spray paint helps prevent lifting like that.
 
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