Terramite engine failure?

Main and slow speed jets if adjustable are set to EPA specs, like olcowhand said, to make them run lean and "not pollute". Takes special tool to adjust them and "illegal" to have in your possession unless your a certified mechanic. If an engine can't get the fuel it needs it cannot produce the power as required.
 
olcowhand said:
Non adjustable main jets for one. That tends to make them run lean when new, and when jets get a little buildup in them, they run even leaner, which in turn makes the engine run hot. Then you have valve seats and valve guides coming loose, among other bad things.
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I have a 1989 wheel horse, I wondered why the jets were not removable.
 
I got the engine picked up today! It looks even cleaner in person, I think it will be a big improvement over the magnum.
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I took the drive coupler off of the flywheel, and although the holes line up the bolts are smaller on the CH20. I used the lathe and made some spacers that will keep everything from moving. There is a pilot in the center of the flywheel, so the bolts are only for sheer anyway.
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When I was putting the coupler on, it occurred to me that I should test run it first.
 
Hope you CH20 runs as nice as the 16 hp Briggs I just got. Had a bit of searching at slow speed but sprayed carb cleaner through it and took care of that.
 
Those larger horizontal shaft engines are getting hard to find in this area. Can find one occasionally that needs rebuilt but goo running units are kind of scarce. Lot of them are going to re-builders that convert them over to shallow water boat use. Especially the ones with fuel tank on the engine.
 
I was only able to get the engine to fire on starting fluid, so I pulled the carb off. When I took it apart, I was happy to see the float was stuck. It must had been parked with gas, because it was a bit varnished inside. I put it back on and same story. I pulled it off again, and realized that I forgot to clean under the automatic adjustment, at least I assume that’s what it is. This part here with the wire.
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When I took it off, I found this!
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Even with this clean, it will still not run. I started looking at it more, and I noticed this clip on the side of the engine.
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One of the wires is the starter signal, one goes to the auto adjustment on the carb, the other I did not trace. I think that since I am trying to run the engine without anything hooked up, the auto adjust is not opening and not getting fuel. I am going to see if I can find a diagram for the electrical.
 
That electrical part on the carb. is the anti-backfire solenoid. Need to have 12v to it so it will open and let the gas through to run
 
That’s was it, once I have it power it fired right up! I removed the electric pto, and did a test fit. It looks like it fits well, and I marked the holes. One of the holes is over the old oil drain access port.
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I welded a plate in quick and put some paint in after I drilled the last hole. I don’t anticipate the paint lasting long where I didn’t grind and weld, but at least there is something where the metal was bare.
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I only had a few minutes today, but I did get the choke cable on, and drill a hole in the frame where I am going to put the oil drain pipe. When I was out today I forgot to see what I needed for electrical, so I am hoping to get that stuff picked up tomorrow.
 
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